How to check electrical system?

[Jane in California]

The electric on my 1978 Trillium was working fine until yesterday. I thought I had switched everything to the correct spot on the little control panel near the floor under the sink, but nothing seems to work. My extension cord/power source was not the problem. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!!

[Jared J]

I know nothing about trilliums, but to help somebody that might, is it your 12v and/or 120v that isn't working? Is there a battery hooked up?

If it's just 12v, I would check fuses, but I don't have a clue where they are. If the 120 isn't working, I would look for a main breaker that's tripped, again no clue where. If resetting didn't work, I would get a meter and check for voltage on both sides of the breaker (don't shock yourself).

I assume you've plugged something into the extension cord to check it?

Any adapters that go on the cord to match the camper?

There's an electrical section here, FYI. Don't delete the thread, a mod will move it there soon.

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[Eric Johnson]

Burro


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[Joe MacDonald]

Send a picture of what you have switched on/off

[Jane in California]

Trying to post a shot of my electrical panel. I was able to restore power by jiggling things around, but I need to learn more about what all this means. I bought two new deep cell batteries and had them installed, but not sure how to test them or use them.

[Carol H]

Do you have a 12 Volt plug in the trailer? It looks like a cigarette lighter plug? If you have one buy yourself a 12 Volt battery monitor plug in to see your batteries are charged up.

In the Documents Center of this forum you can download a wiring diagram for a Trillium 1300.

To trouble shoot wiring issues you will need to get yourself a Multimeter.

Its sounds like you have some loose connections if you are able to jiggle things to make them work.

More details as to what is and is not working would help others to give your advise as to the actual issues. I.E. does the 110 plug work when you are plugged into power. Do any lights inside the trailer work - some are all. Are the ones that are working 110 or 12V?

[Jane in California]

The batteries are brand new so I hope they are fully charged, but I will buy a monitor plug...sounds like a good thing to have. I do believe I have one of those cigarette-lighter things! After jiggling stuff around, found that all interior lights work while plugged in to land current. Just not sure how to test the lights with the batteries. I am way too uncomfortable with electricity to test things myself, so I guess I will have to hire a professional. Very happy to have the wiring diagram, though! Thanks for all your help.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Jane in California

The batteries are brand new so I hope they are fully charged, but I will buy a monitor plug...sounds like a good thing to have. I do believe I have one of those cigarette-lighter things! After jiggling stuff around, found that all interior lights work while plugged in to land current. Just not sure how to test the lights with the batteries. I am way too uncomfortable with electricity to test things myself, so I guess I will have to hire a professional. Very happy to have the wiring diagram, though! Thanks for all your help.

While who ever installed the new batteries should have fully charged them prior to install - you will never know if they did or did not not with out a means to check the voltage. Also if you have been running lights and playing with other items in the trailer and there is no charge system working they could be dead by now.

[Jane in California]

Hi, I have another electrical question. Took my 78 Trillium out camping last weekend, and had no problem hooking up to an electrical site and getting everything to work. However, I made a big mistake. I plugged in a small electric heater and turned it on, and blew a fuse or tripped a breaker or whatever I did. I looked at the schematic, but my trailer seems different and I cannot locate the fuse or breaker or whatever it is I need to fix. A photo of my electrical panel is posted near the beginning of this thread. Can anyone tell me what I need to check to see what I've blown? Thank you!

[Bob Miller]

Just to the left of the plug on your power panel is a circuit breaker for the 120VAC outlet IF (only IF) your were plugged in there, or that also protects any outlets in your camper, that should have popped out and needs to be pushed in.


Even if your heater is rated at less than the 10 amps shown, or 1200 watts total, as circuit breakers age they will trip at lower and lower points, especially if they are tripped a number of times from overloads. That is usually a <$10 part to replace, but the labor may make the thought of updating to a modern power center such as the Progressive Dynamics PD-4045 an attractive idea.


There may be a fuse or circuit breaker elsewhere if you have additional outlets.

[steve dunham]

Standard circuit breakers have both mechanical and electrical components
Depending on where the breaker panel is physically located ,can often affect a circuit breakers trip point . If a circuit breaker is subject to high humidity such as in a garage, pool area or trailer , the internal metal parts rust and cause binding of the breakers mechanical parts and actually raise the trip points . Breakers that have been subject to short circuit fault currents and trip under fault often suffer contact damage and require replacement . Breakers that trip from overload currents seldom are damaged unless the breaker has been subjected to numerous overloads trips . Circuit breakers need to be exercised on a regular basis to make sure their mechanical parts move freely . If a breaker trips make sure to disconnect the piece of equipment responsible for the trip and then reset the circuit breaker . Repeated closing of a circuit breaker across a fault / overload will damage the breaker

[Jane in California]

Thanks all! I did locate that little circuit breaker to the left of the plug. A green band is showing, and the very faint instructions next to it says to push the button back in if that green is showing. I tried that and the darn thing wouldn't move. The other, larger button on the right of the panel also has some writing around it stating it is also a circuit breaker. I tried pushing that in as well, and then plugged into a land line. Nothing. Unfortunately, I don't understand electrical terminology past the most rudimentary things, so I will call in the Big Guns. Where I live, most dealerships and repair shops outright refuse to work on these old trailers, so I will have to do some searching for a good electrician! Thanks, too, for your recommendation about what kind of a panel to buy. I looked them up on line and they seem reasonably priced. As we all know, it's the labor that's gonna be expensive, which is why I was hoping I could do it myself. Oh well!!

[Bob Miller]

First, did it "Click" when you pushed in on the circuit breaker? If not, try pushing harder, you might even try to rotate it when you are pushing.
If you get interested in installing the PD-4045 let me know as I know several sources that sell it for substantially below retail, like <$175.
Where are you located in CA? I may be able to recommend someone to help.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Jane in California

Where I live, most dealerships and repair shops outright refuse to work on these old trailers, so I will have to do some searching for a good electrician!

Keep in mind Jane as why they may not want to work on such an old trailers, when you find a good electrician they may not want to touch that converter either

Bob's suggestion as to a new converter is probable not a bad idea.

[steve dunham]

The problem often stems from wiring that is unsafe or not code compliant
If as a licensed electrician I repair ,tamper with ,add or subtract from an unsafe or illegal installation, I am obligated to make the installation safe and code compliant . In other words if I mess with it ,I am required to fix it . So often we run all new wiring and leave the existing wiring untouched to avoid legal liability.
I would follow Mr. Miller's advice and change out the converter , it will probably be cheaper and safer in the long run.

[Jane in California]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

First, did it "Click" when you pushed in on the circuit breaker? If not, try pushing harder, you might even try to rotate it when you are pushing.
If you get interested in installing the PD-4045 let me know as I know several sources that sell it for substantially below retail, like <$175.
Where are you located in CA? I may be able to recommend someone to help.

I live in Bakersfield, CA, in the Central Valley, 100 miles south of Fresno. My zip code is 93308. I appreciate any help you can give me. Many thanks!

[Jane in California]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

The problem often stems from wiring that is unsafe or not code compliant
If as a licensed electrician I repair ,tamper with ,add or subtract from an unsafe or illegal installation, I am obligated to make the installation safe and code compliant . In other words if I mess with it ,I am required to fix it . So often we run all new wiring and leave the existing wiring untouched to avoid legal liability.
I would follow Mr. Miller's advice and change out the converter , it will probably be cheaper and safer in the long run.

I did not know this, but am grateful that there are such codes in place! Sounds like a new converter is the way to go. Now to find someone here in this wasteland who can install it! Thank you again for your help and advice.

[steve dunham]

In Minnesota ,if I rewire your home ,I am obligated to repair any "obviously" illegal or unsafe wiring .If I cannot visually see the unsafe wiring such as hidden in a wall I am not obligated to open the wall to examine the wiring. If the home owner has used lampcord to wire his basement and it is openly visible I have to fix it. I once rewired a home where the owner installed a fuse panel in the bathroom directly above the bathtub . He hung a towel over the panel so it was not visible without moving the towel . The homeowner argued that the panel did not need to be removed because it was not visible when the towel was in place.
His reasoning did not fly with me or the inspector.

[Steve L.]

Personally, the 120v mini-breaker looks broken to me in terms of the button is not sticking out enough so that when you press the button the buttons goes in enough to reset breaker.

I'm basing this on the pictures that David posted in this earlier thread.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ter-51997.html . The buttons on his all seem to protrude some. If the button IS broken on yours it may not reset properly anyway, anyhow.

I see that your unit has a whopping 9A output for DC. I think that says something about the back-to-nature style of camping that the Trillium was intended for at the time of manufacture. Upgrading the converter would certainly allow more 12v gadgets if that turns out to be important for you. No shame in a minimalist camping style.

[Bob Miller]

Originally Posted by Jane in California

I live in Bakersfield, CA, in the Central Valley, 100 miles south of Fresno. My zip code is 93308. I appreciate any help you can give me. Many thanks!

I asked around and couldn't find any refereb=nces for RV guys in your area, sorry. I'm in Riverside, just a tad to far to jump over one afternoon.

Why don't you put up a fresh post with the title "Need Help in Bakersfield, CA", coul d well be some in that area that hasn't been following your posts that can help out.

BTW: Did you go back and try pushing the breaker again? If the end seems broken off, us the end of a ball point pens plastic cap to push on it. That worked on Apollo-11 as I recall the story