how to get a 7'6" trailer thru a 7' garage door - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-04-2010, 03:34 PM   #15
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I'd take the wheels off and use snowmobile dollys to set the trailer onto. they're a 4 wheeled thing that will allow you to move the trailer in any direction too. like really close to a wall of sideways at the back of the garage.
Northern Industrial Snowmobile Dolly — 1,500-Lb. Capacity | Snowmobile Accessories | Northern Tool + Equipment
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Old 08-04-2010, 03:44 PM   #16
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Hi: bcomnes... How about "Honey I shrunk the Scamp"!!!
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Old 08-04-2010, 04:28 PM   #17
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This idea came up in a thread from a few years ago, I tried it out this winter and it worked well for me.

The flintstone wheels are cut out of 3/4" plywood. I made a template using an illustration app and then glued the printed template right onto the plywood and cut everything out with a jigsaw and drill.

I was able to get my trillium through our 7' garage door with a couple of inches to spare. The wheels are 9" diameter. no marks on the floor, wood stood up fine. They are not even perfectly round but at taxi-ing speeds this wasn't a problem.

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Old 08-04-2010, 06:58 PM   #18
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Reading my post, I notice I never detailed what I did:

1. Removed the MaxxAir Fan and placed small tarp over opening.
2. Removed wheels with tires and replaced with 16" steel wheels.
3. Pulled the Trillium into the garage using a 'come-along'. About $22 at my neighborhood hardware store.
Lacking a place to anchor the come-along, I placed three 44's in a pi shape. That is, I laid two perpendicular to the garage door opening butting them up against the cement part of the walls, then laying the third one across the top and looped the come along cable around that. I found that once I got onto the smooth cement of the garage floor, the trailer rolled easily.
4. I pulled it in tongue first because I could place mowers etc on either side of the tongue and didn't have to have the garage cleared for the full width of the trailer to full length. Actually, I had a small cabinet I didn't want to move and the tongue fit in front of that.
5. I picked the first of the month to go to the garage and plug in the electric power for one day to keep the battery topped up.
6. I did put in pink antifreeze because I figured it was cheap insurance.
POINTS:
Because of the construction of the garage, I couldn't raise the door opening. Never thought of that when I bought the house. Actually, a 20' sailboat fit in the same place, but it was not as tall, nor as bulky. If I need only one inch, I could remove the trim above the door. Beyond that, I am hitting the gutter and any modification gets nasty fast.
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Old 08-04-2010, 07:06 PM   #19
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Kevin,

What you did was my next move after I tried using some dollies ont eh rear after taking the wheels off. That was just too much work. I made some wheels like that but the wood I used was too soft and just ended up getting crushed. The problem that I am having is that when I take off the wheel and lower it down on to the wood wheel, it's an awful lot of stress on the wood wheel since all of the weight goes in that direction. Have you had any problems with that or do they hold up fine?

Here's what I had done to get mine through my 7 foot door.
Can I set my hubs/drums on wheel dollies?
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Old 08-04-2010, 08:19 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Bryan L. View Post
Kevin,

The problem that I am having is that when I take off the wheel and lower it down on to the wood wheel, it's an awful lot of stress on the wood wheel since all of the weight goes in that direction. Have you had any problems with that or do they hold up fine?
If I understand correctly as you drop one wheel to the ground the weight of the trailer puts a sideways force on the wood that causes it to crack?

Because my wheels were only slightly larger than the metal hubs they were somewhat laterally supported by the hub behind them(enough to keep things together). I also tried to lower both sides to the ground together after I put the wooden wheels on.

I didn't use the typical construction grade softwood plywood, I picked the hardest plywood I could find at Home Depot (russian birch 3/4", I think).

Kevin
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Old 08-04-2010, 08:22 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Bryan L. View Post
Kevin,

Here's what I had done to get mine through my 7 foot door.
Can I set my hubs/drums on wheel dollies?
thats funny, I have a set of snowmobile dollies with the castors all bent up from my first attempt at parking the trailer in the garage as well.


Kevin
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:54 AM   #22
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I tried the snowmobile dolly as well and it sucked. The wheels don't move well. I literally took a tire to Canadian Tire, and found a matching bolt pattern on an 8" rim. It was just enough to clear the shackle bolts, and garage door. But I do plan to put in a new set of garage doors as I have an open header in my doors.
If you glued up plywood on the cross grain, it would be strong enough.
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Old 08-05-2010, 06:35 PM   #23
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I can't fathom rolling 1500 + # on such small wheels. The 16" steel rims rolled fine, but were susceptable to small pebbles, transition from asphalt to cement, etc because the steel does not give.

I just now recalled something I had thought of last year, roll the steel wheels on wood 2 4's or 4 4's whatever works, using the boards like railroad tracks.

I rolled it by hand for three reasons:

1. I wanted the tongue in the garage first.

2. Raising the hitch to the level of the TV would substantially raise that end of the trailer and raise it all along its length.

3. Moving by hand allows for much more control than trying to move with a bulky and powerful TV which could easily cause running into something.

I held the garage door above the door opening by clamping a vise grip on the track.

I have been thinking of getting a couple of pulleys and using my 50' rope. Pulleys would multiply my hand pulling enough to make it easier to move. The comealong works fine, but is very slow, not a bad thing.
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Old 08-09-2010, 09:49 AM   #24
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I was at an RV store the other day and saw these boggy wheels you attach to the rear bumper so that you don't bury your bumper when backing up. I got to thinking that maybe these would work? About a 4" tire might be the right size.
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Old 08-09-2010, 10:50 PM   #25
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Vehicle dolleys

I just fit our Trillium into the garage. I was going to build my own caster system, but then I found a pair of vehicle dolleys at Harbor Freight for $50 for the pair (1000lb capacity each). I screwed a couple of boards together to distribute the load over the frame and to give about 1/2 - 1 inch of clearance between the bracket on the axle and the floor. This gave me about 2 inches of clearance between the top of the trailer and the garage door frame.

Although the trailer pushed into the garage nice and easy, it is important to note that you need to have some type of wheel on the tongue to move the trailer around since there is no "pivot" point at the wheels (which normally makes it easy to lift the tongue). I had a small floor jack that I used for this.

-Isaac
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