How to get at the wood for the door on a Trillium?

[Mike and Sarah K]

So I am fixing the hinges on my trillium and the wood under the hinges has been butchered by someone prior to me. They drilled out the holes and installed plastic drywall anchors. By doing this they left gaping holes for the water to get in and rot out the wood. It is swelling and busting the fiberglass at the bottom hinge

So question 1: can you get at the wood at the hinge like the windows?

I know that others have drilled out the hinge holes and installed wood glue/epoxy and tooth picks to build up the bad section and then redrill. But if my wood looks like anything like the wood around windows then it is so rotten that it will look like a pile of black rotten straw on the floor.

Question 2: Has anybody come across thsi scenario and how did they fix it?

any comments are highly welcome


Thanks

Mike.

[Daniel V.]

I've never had to go that far with our Trillium - hopefully others that did will chime-in - but in ours there's a long vertical rounded piece of fiberglass on the inside (behind the ensolite) that covers whatever wood may be behind it. So I suspect you'd have to cut out that fiberglass piece (or at least the sections over the hinges) to get to the wood, and then glass it back on somehow. Seems like a lot of work to me, but best thing to do might be to peel off a section of the ensolite near the door and evaluate. An alternative approach might be to mix some fiberglass resin, and use a big syringe or straw to push a big glob of resin inside the hole, then fill the hole itself, let it cure, and drill into it. One thing worth noting is that you'll probably want to realign the door a bit before making new holes to correct any sagging.

[Frederick L. Simson]

So I am fixing the hinges on my trillium and the wood under the hinges has been butchered by someone prior to me. They drilled out the holes and installed plastic drywall anchors. By doing this they left gaping holes for the water to get in and rot out the wood. It is swelling and busting the fiberglass at the bottom hinge

Link to an earlier post about this problem.

[Mike and Sarah K]

OK so I see that it is encapsulated within the hull and I will have to cut out the backing to get to the wood. does the wood cover only the hinge area or is a solid piece from bottom hinge to top hinge. I really want to minimize the amount of cutting and recutting of the fiberglass.

[Gina D.]

its only behind the hinges.

[Mike and Sarah K]

I've never had to go that far with our Trillium - hopefully others that did will chime-in - but in ours there's a long vertical rounded piece of fiberglass on the inside (behind the ensolite) that covers whatever wood may be behind it. So I suspect you'd have to cut out that fiberglass piece (or at least the sections over the hinges) to get to the wood, and then glass it back on somehow. Seems like a lot of work to me, but best thing to do might be to peel off a section of the ensolite near the door and evaluate. An alternative approach might be to mix some fiberglass resin, and use a big syringe or straw to push a big glob of resin inside the hole, then fill the hole itself, let it cure, and drill into it. One thing worth noting is that you'll probably want to realign the door a bit before making new holes to correct any sagging.

Thanks, so far the entire fix up this year has been "a lot of work" as I now have all but the kitchen window out, the door off, and half of the belly band off. After looking at the older posts (thanks Fred Simpson) the best thing to do is to get the wood out of there and replace it. It really wont be too big of an issue to do as I will have to fiberglass other spots over the belly rivets and replace the wood on all but one of the windows.

Surprising the hinges do not sag and the door was true before I removed it. Here's hoping that the reinstall goes as well

[Steve Hilby]

On a Burro with oversized and rotted screw holes, I pumped plenty of CPAS into the screw holes using a syringe, then injected some epoxy resin to fill the holes completely. Drilled new pilot holes and was able to use the proper screws and get plenty of bite.

[Alf S.]

Hi: Mike and Sarah K... Here's what I used to fill the cloverleaf shaped holes in the door of our former Boler. Just cut off& kneed the tootsie like roll, stuff the hole let it dry 1 hr. file/sand level and re drill the screw hole. http://www.nlsproducts.ca Avail. at auto/hardware stores!!!
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie

[Will M.]

I used the same epoxy procedure as Alf S. The repair was 3 years ago and it is still holding up well. The underlying wood was not too badly rotted but the holes were badly stripped and out of round.
Also, be sure to use stainless screws.

[Mike and Sarah K]

Thanks everyone

I will be doing it the right way and completly replace the wood. As my fiberglass is swelling and splitting from the rotten wood and/or stress on the walls from the lack of support. I will go and replace the wood all together from the inside. While in there I can reinforce the fiberglass on the inside without it being unsightly on the outside.

I did an exploratory hole through one of the drywall anchors and there was nothing but dust and dirt coming out of the hole.

I got a 2 part plastic putty like product ( i think it's called PT Woody) for repairing rotten wood that is sandable drillable and screwable. It says that you can use it to rebuild boat paddles and I seen samples in the store that look amazing. It may be the answer over even wood.

I will document my journey and post pics soon.