How to remove "egg" from Trillium frame? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-27-2007, 01:48 PM   #1
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Trailer: 1976 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 19
I would like to hear from those of you who have removed the body (egg shell) from a 1300 Trillium frame. The procedures and all the details etc.

Thanks FRED......................................
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Old 06-27-2007, 09:29 PM   #2
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Trailer: Fiber Stream 1981
Posts: 28
Quote:
I would like to hear from those of you who have removed the body (egg shell) from a 1300 Trillium frame. The procedures and all the details etc.

Thanks FRED......................................
Hi Fred - I don't know where everyone is that could answer your question.

I have not, but while researching your queston, I came upon this. It looks to be quick, easy and fast, if your not going to reuse the same egg shell on the same frame. The procedure is push down, and then get ready to pick up a lot of pieces. But then again, what do I know. Someone else will be along shortly with a better idea.
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Old 06-29-2007, 08:08 AM   #3
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Trailer: 1987 Bigfoot 20 ft 5th Wheel and 1995 Bigfoot 2500 Shortbox Truck Camper and 1972 Compact Jr ('CJ') and 1974 Boler ('BB')
Posts: 82
Hi Fred,

Attached is the link to our personal website. We took our Dewey off the frame and have documented everything under that heading. We will be doing it again to our Compact Junior and Boler.

Good luck.

Brenda Novakovski
Saskatoon, SK

http://www.members.shaw.ca/nova1/Three%20T...%20Trailers.htm
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Old 07-01-2007, 12:33 AM   #4
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Trailer: 1976 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 19
Brenda Hi.


I did see your web page ref. your restoration of Trilliums, before I started asking my questions.

It looked like you used jacks to remove the shell from the frame. Did you have one on each corner and raised it high enough for the frame to slide out from underneath? Could four people lift the shell off the frame? I have no idea how much the frame weights?

Where on the frame did you reinforce it. From the axle to the tongue all the way to to end of the hitch? Did you do any reinforcing from the axle to the rear bumper? What did you use for your reinforcing. width and thickness of steel? After your frame reinforcing would you feel comfortable using a weight distributing hitch?

Thanks for answering my post, Hope I didn't ask to many questions. FRED...................



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Old 07-01-2007, 09:45 AM   #5
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Name: Normand
Trailer: Trillium 5500 1980
Posts: 121
Fred,

Most of your questions will be answered here :

http://www.trilliumrv.com/parts.htm

My original frame had the modification done but cracked anyway. After 33 or 29 years you are done for a new frame and suspension. Do it right the firs time.

The shell is bolted with four 6 inches (or so) carriage bolts one in each corner. You can see them in each corner.

You raise the shell easily with a jack.

See above as far as reinforcing is concerned. But I don't recommend it for a 30 years old Trillium.

Personally I just had a new frame done after a tough ride in Mexico ("toppe" pot holes and other torture instruments!).

I used grade 11 steel tubing which is one grade stronger than the one used for brand new Trillium (grade 12). The original frame was made out of 13-14 grade heated and stamped steel. No problem with Weight distribution hitches when upgraded like this. The frame will be twice stronger than the original one.

I moved the location and the attachment of of the carriage bolts in order to avoid to make hole in the new frame. A small plate was welded on the side of the frame and bolt attached through it.

I made my new frame based on the new design. There is nothing now heated, stamped or bent. See :

http://www.trilliumtrailers.com/outback.php

There are many photos showing the front end of the frame. This is the only major change done to the original frame.

By the way I had my front end 1 foot longer as I wanted enough space for both my generator and a future WDH. I didn't change anything to tracking. The tongue weight will most probably reach 250 lbs.

I also changed the axle. When you redo the frame, redo the suspension. As I said after 33 years, there is no abuse in rebuilding all this.

Here are the specs of my new axle.

Flexiride (make)

3500 lbs axle. Yes stronger than recommended but...

Rubbers are shortened and downsized to 2500 lbs in order to have a smoother ride (it does!)

10 inches electric drum brakes

Trailing Arm minus 22.5 Starting Angle

48" OS Brackets

65" Track

Tapered Spindle

5 x 4.5 Hubs

I've done it with a 22.5 starting angle (recommended as the best by Flexiride) as I wanted the frame a little higher for two reasons (1.8 inches). After 5 years the suspension will lower anyway by may be a couple of inches and I wanted to have a little more clearance as I sometimes go on gravel and rough roads. Make a search on Flexiride on this forum and you will get more infos. Flexiride axles ARE adjustable.This is a big long term advantage. Dexter is NOT adjustable. Flexiride is a little more expensive than Dexter. If you think it is too much, lower it to 0 or minus 15 degrees. You can even get more clearance by going to -35-45 degrees!

As done, the Trillium roll perfectly well. is not too high. Smooth ride, perfect tracking. This added about 150-175 pounds to the trailer. But this is a close as you can go if you don't want a tank! :-)

All this costed me 1,500 CDN$. A very good investment.
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