I'm finally done...(electrical system)

[Franswa]

after a couple of prior versions/changes/upgrades I think I'm finally done....it's been fun....but I'm glad it's over

1997 Bigfoot 17CB.... 70W of solar on the roof and 40W "deployable"

if "a picture is worth a thousand words"....here's a whole bunch... Happy trails, F

[Carl V]

Hi François

Thanks for the pictures.
Just curious, where did you get that 50A switch you use as a battery cutoff?
All I could find (at a decent price) was those big rotary red keyed switch. They probably work good but ugly as can be.



The "regular" type of toggle switches I could find are usually rated for 20A or less.

Thanks

[Franswa]

when I went looking all I could find was switches like your picture...because of where I wanted to mount it they were impractical.....then I found a 50A toggle at "Crappy Tire" of all places.....and bonus, it was only twelve bucks......sometimes you get lucky

main wires from battery are #6....(a little overkill but I had some handy) throttled down to #10 for the short run to the toggle and back

[Darwin Maring]

Good looking, weather tight, master switch.
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Isolat...+switch+marine

[Darwin Maring]

That is an absolute outstanding installation.

[Franswa]

but now if a guy wanted to modify/work on/add anything it would be easy to do....you can actually follow wires and identify them....as opposed to the straight out of the factory "big bungle of wires all wrapped up and fastened to the floor"

[Carl V]

Originally Posted by Franswa

I found a 50A toggle at "Crappy Tire" of all places.....and bonus, it was only twelve bucks......sometimes you get lucky

Who would've thought of that!!
I'll try my luck at my local CT!

I'm in the planning stage of my future electrical system. It will be similar to yours. My actual system is an unbelievable mess, thanks to the previous owner...

Is your 6 AWG wire full copper or CCA (copper-clad aluminium)?
Pure copper is pretty expensive. I can get some 4 AWG CCA wire at very good price. Equivalent to 6 AWG, give or take. I would use it between the battery and converter, DC fuse panel, and vehicle charge line. The rest in 12 or 14 AWG, whatever is already in the camper.

[Carl V]

I just found that Princess Auto has some 50A switches!

50A ON/OFF Paddle Switch | Princess Auto

[Franswa]

too bad you're not closer...I could give you all the #6 copper you need....I "inherited" a spool of it years and years ago that has been gathering dust....

"My actual system is an unbelievable mess, thanks to the previous owner..." I really hear you there....my PO added two GC batteries (selling feature) and put them under the left dinette seat......two problems I found out with that is that #1 the reason he "upgraded" was that his battery kept going dead...because his converter was not charging !!!!(I now had two boat anchors) and #2 all BFs come out of the factory overweight on the left side...his adding all that weight left side made it worse....and, with the "roads" I normally drive on I broke a spring on the left side in the first year.....

but #6 is overkill anyways (and a bit of a "waste" but free #6 to me was cheaper than store bought anything)....BF used #10 from the battery.....I used #12 to wire the panels in and that was probably overkill too.

have fun, F

PS: if you're planning a bunch electrical work....google "each buyer".....lots and lots of everything....ridiculous prices...ten day delivery right to your mailbox....lots of stuff....(now and then something gets lost in the chinese to english translation....but prices are so low it don't matter)

[Franswa]

looks EXACTLY like the one I used....(casing, everything)...cheaper too

[Michael Pupeza]

Franswa;
You did a fine job. While I have updated the POS Magnetek Converter to a Progressive Dynamics and have installed a 2nd battery under the same berth and have a Xantrex Link 20 Monitor, It is nowhere near your neat system. The space you save under the panel berth is very nice, and you can just pull up the cushion a bit to drop in your dead soldiers - very nice.
My portable solar panels of 160 Watts have their own controller and are deployed outside as needed with Anderson Power Poles on the tongue.
Good Job!
Mike .....>

[Franswa]

I was wondering if somebody was going to notice my EBCMS.....(empty beer can management system)....BFs are overweight left side out of the factory so after breaking a left spring a while back I now concentrate on keeping anything and everything on the left side LIGHT as much as I can (anything heavy finds a home on the right side)...empty beer cans fill the bill and with the large capacity, no more cans/cardboard under foot here and there or leaving them by the dumpster for me

my elec. system is quite simple...sort of "pedestrian" if you will....I have no capacity to measure amps in or out...but the four digit panel meter should let me know if I'm gaining or losing and that's really all I was looking for....and I carry a hydrometer so I should be able to "stay on top" on my battery bank from now on

thanks for the comments and cheers, F

[Carl V]

Originally Posted by Franswa

PS: if you're planning a bunch electrical work....google "each buyer".....

I just had a quick look, it looks similar to DX (Deal Extreme).

I will buy most of my electrical stuff at DX, Amazon, or my local electronics shop (and now Canadian Tire ), depending on prices and what's available.
I'm going all LED in and out, a single GR27 deep cycle, no converter for the time being until I can get a good deal on one. I already have 2 solar panels + controller. New AC breakers and DC fuse panel, USB sockets for the iThis and iThat. Volts/Amp meters for AC and DC systems.
My wiring schematic is mostly done. Nothing too complicated (nowhere near the wiring mess this trailer has now), but the ability to run on the battery or converter, and to recharge the battery using solar, the converter, or tow vehicle.
Main wires will probably use 6 AWG, but I can get CCA wire in 4 AWG at good price, so I might go with that.

Right now my trailer still has its original Basler converter, on which the previous owner has added a couple switches and lights, not sure why. Inside the converter is a relay (there is no relay in there from the factory) a lot of AC and DC wires, and two more terminal blocks (not original) fully wired. Wiring consist or a mix of residential 14/2 (Romex), some of it is white, some is blue, some is red (usually used in 220V circuits), there is even some is AWA cable (aluminium wire armour) !! Outlets have been added inside and outside. There is a residential-style distribution box under the front left dinette seat with a bunch of wires and large fuses. Lots of DC (I suppose) wires attached with wire nuts, electrical tape, there are wires, junctions boxes, terminal blocks and what not everywhere. I'm used to aircraft DC electrical systems, which tends to be slightly more complex than RV systems, and I can't figure out the logic behind all this. I'm sure if I dare plug the AC cord the trailer will just blow up.

So I'm not going to understand and try to fix that, I'll throw everything out and start anew with a more simple and logical design.