I'm new, excited & scared. Compact Jr 1971 Help! - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 07-30-2012, 09:08 AM   #15
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I used CPES from the Rot Doctor to firm up some rotten wood on a friend's Burro so that her door hinges had something solid to screw into. Worked really well. I started a thread here somewhere about it.

But. On a Compact Jr, the body sides bend under at the lower edges to form a sort of floor area, maybe a foot wide. The inner edge of that section sits on the frame, and then the plywood floor sits on top of that. Unlike in a Boler or Burro, the wood floor isn't glued to the fiberglass, and doesn't provide any structural strength; it kind of sits on top of the fiberglass floor, and bolts go through the plywood, then the fiberglass, then the frame to hold it all together.

(The bolt you have circled with the red bungee is one of those bolts.)

That means that you could actually do without the wood at that rotted corner, and your repair will primarily be for cosmetic purposes and doesn't have to be battleship-strong. If it were me, I'd chisel away the rotted wood, cut a piece to replace the missing bit, with a rabbeted edge so that one piece sort of overlaps the other, and glue it to the edge of the existing wood with lots of Titebond II yellow carpenter's glue and maybe a couple short steel straps to hold it in place. I might then smear some Bondo over the joint and sand that smooth, just to even it out a bit.

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Old 07-30-2012, 09:32 AM   #16
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While the floor does not appear to be a structural part, it does have the task of holding the bottom 1/2 of the tub to the frame and, on the Jr., because it has a flat side without any strengthening ribs, it depends on that floor section to hold the sides from warping. I would cut back at least 6-8" from any damaged wood, replace the bad section with new marine grade plywood, and put a 6-8" wide overlapping strip on the underside of the floor, with lots of titebond or Gorilla glue + many screws to hold it in place. Trying to fix this from the top will always look look like a patch job rather than a true repair. And remember, some day you will want to sell, and the quality of repairs can have a direct impact on resale value.

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Old 07-30-2012, 06:50 PM   #17
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...and now you have your first conflicting advice!
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Old 07-31-2012, 11:48 AM   #18
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Conflicting?! I'm going to do a combo of the two. I gotta say, the more people respond, the more confident I feel about fixing this. Thank you all.
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Old 08-03-2012, 10:40 AM   #19
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First, I must say Welcome to the forum... Don't be overwhelmed... Take it one small step at a time. If you want to see how a CJ is out together, take a look at my thread of a complete off-frame rebuild. It'll give you some ideas. Larry

I Did It Again...A Compact Jr.
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:32 AM   #20
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Thanks Larry! I've actually viewed your thread many times! I'm working the next 10 days in a row - then a full day off that I'm dedicating the my CJ. I'll post photos.
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:55 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
How rotten is the wood? Can you easily stick a screwdriver into it? If it is soft, but not falling apart, I'd try to go the GitRot (thin resin) route. You can drill 1/8" holes 3/4 of the way through, repeatedly, to honey comb it, then pour on the resin and let is soak in and cure. The wood needs to be dry first.

Use a drill bit stop to make the job easier.

7 Piece Drill Stop Set

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2093&engine=adwords!6456&keywo rd=git_rot_epoxy

You can remove the stuck flooring with a heat gun and a putty knife.

Heat Gun - Dual Temperature Heat Gun, 1500W
I agree with Tom. It looks to me that it can be fixed by using GitRot. Boat builders use it all the time to keep boats from sinking.... I don't think you camper will be exposed to as much water as a boat!

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