Inside Seam Tape Replacement - Fiberglass RV

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Old 04-12-2006, 07:35 AM   #1
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Trailer: 1975 Boler
Posts: 4
Hi Folks, Here are some step by step pictures and info on Inside Seamtape Replacement. Go to this Link and follow the Instructions below

Ok, Seam Tape replacement. (follow pictures Left to Right))
From any hardware/building center you can purchase vinyl I-beam. Used for joining white paneling edges/seams. They come in 8’ lengths and I believe my trailer (13’ Boler) used about 8 of them. (approx: $3.00 ea.). You will be using the BACK part of the I-beam. Use scissors to cut down the middle then use a razor knife to trim excess. You will be left with the very flexible convex back part of the I-beam. I used a product (silicone I believe) called “No More Nails” color white. This product sticks very well and joints and fingers clean up real easy with a damp cloth. Also there are no fumes. It comes in the tube as shown in pictures or in larger caulking gun size. The tubes are more expensive (approx. $5) but are much easier to work with then the gun size. You will need about 5-6 tubes, depending on amount of seam to be replaced. Start with the longest wall seams first then use leftover pieces of I-beam for the shorter seams. Remove old seamtape and clean areas well using a scrub brush and any type of household cleaner ( I used “Fantastic” Cleaner). Measure and cut a piece of I-beam to the length of seam you are doing. OVERFILL in the gapping seams of the walls/ceiling with the silicone. Fill in the Convex area of the I-beam with lots of silicone. Note: Don’t be skimpy with the silicone- USE LOTS of it! It will squish out all around the I-beam when applied to the wall but wipes off easy and allows for maximun adhesion. Apply the I-beam to the seam and wipe off excess silicone with a damp cloth. The silicone drys clear even though they label it as white. Do the ceiling last as this is the trickiest part and after doing the walls you will be familiar with how the process goes. The ceiling seam (on Bolers) have a tight curve which will require an extra set of hands. Use a heatgun or hot hairdryer to help soften and mold the I-beam around tight curves. Hope that helps some of you out there. Your seams will look really nice when they are done. Cheers, Brian.

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Old 04-12-2006, 08:20 PM   #2
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Trailer: 1982 Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 379
Very neat job, Brian! It really looks good!

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Old 04-14-2006, 03:41 PM   #3
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Trailer: 83 Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 17
Excellent walk through. I was wondering where to buy seam tape myself!
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Old 04-19-2006, 01:44 PM   #4
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Trailer: 78 Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 118
Wooo hooo- Thanks again, fellow owners... this info is REALLY helping me out a LOT...I'm busy getting my Scamp re-decorated and spiffy so we can use it really soon..

There are no seam covers in ours and it looks ugly.......I suppose it didn't have any originally, perhaps. But it needs them now. Oh I h ave the older trailer with the ensolite and not the "rat fur" in it.
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Old 04-29-2006, 03:41 PM   #5
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Trailer: 1975 13 ft Trillium
Posts: 2,535
Brian, I REALLY like your idea about the seam coverage and DO plan to try it, but I have a question or two about the process and thought I'd best find out from THE source whats what.

In the appended pix, it looks like the molding has been cut apart and that the pictures "seem" to show utilizing the smaller (doomed/arched) piece of the molding with the I-beam attached. It states however in the written part that we are to use the BACK part of the molding (which is flat) which is wider and would (IMHO) opinion provide better seam coverage!! SO, was/am I seeing something here or what?

Which part of the molding do we use???
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