install of 110 dorm fridge - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-21-2013, 08:57 AM   #15
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Name: bob
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Stephanie; have you made a platform for the fridge to set on? I made like a box with a plywood top, and that top is even with the bottom of the opening in the fiberglass and extends over the edges of the vertical sides of the box. I used either flat corner braces or "L" brackets fastened to the bottom of the fridge, set the fridge in place, drilled down through those brackets and through the plywood box top, then put a rubber washer under each bracket and a 1/4" bolt through the bracket and plywood and a nylon lock nut to prevent the nut loosening and to control the pressure I was putting on the rubber washer. At the rear of the fridge you should be able to drill in the sides and not hit anything if you're careful. The rear is where the compressor is, and will either be open or have a cover on it. Probably just a bracket at each rear corner will be enough. I can't remember just exactly what I did, but may have attached at least one of the front brackets with an existing screw that held the door hinge. Don't tip the fridge upside down to do any of this. After I got all the brackets on I couldn't get the fridge through the cabinet opening and had to remove a couple brackets to get it in, then reattach them. With the left front storage tub out, and the under sink cabinet liner out, it was workable. Or you could take the easy route out and use a couple bungees over the fridge, but a secure fastener method is better. Sorry I didn't take any pics of all this, and any I take now wouldn't show much.
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:02 PM   #16
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Mary and Bob,
I have made a platform. Did you secure the platform to the camper? I want to put aluminum brackets to frame the fridge in the doorway. This is where the rivets would most likely come into play unless I use screws. Just not sure how deep into fridge can go. How did you do your opening ? I read you put trim around is that all you used ? Does the fridge move around at all on travels? Thanks for all your help !
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Old 09-21-2013, 02:58 PM   #17
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I secured the platform to the trailer floor with hardware store angle brackets, screws into the side of the platform and into the floor. only the fridge door sticks out of the opening. I had to widen and raise the opening slightly, probably about an inch each way, and I still have a gap on the sides and top for air circulation, which I think is important. I used the trimlock stuff around the opening. Got it at JC Whitney, "Fairchild industries trim kit" SKU# JCW497408, $27.60, I got it in the color gray, but I think it is available in other colors. It just pushes on over the edge of the opening. I would post a pic, but Mary is away until tomorrow evening, and she has the camera. I think that there is nothing in the side walls of the fridge to do with cooling, I believe the cooling part is just at the little freezer compartment if you have that. I think you are better off to find a way to secure the fridge to the platform, the platform to the floor, and leave some air space around the sides and top.
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Old 09-21-2013, 05:35 PM   #18
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Instead of air space around sides and top, wouldn't it be better to put insulation there? I think it would help the little fridge keep its cool longer while unplugged (on the road).

Mine would get warm inside after only 3-4 hours of driving.
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Old 09-21-2013, 05:50 PM   #19
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Mike, when I put the B&D in the Burro, I velcroed Reflectix to top and sides. I removed from sides later due to comments here that heat is dissipated thru the steel shell. I left the panel on top in an attempt to reflect heat from the gas range directly above. The shell does get warm during operation unlike a typical home fridge with condensor coils at rear.

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Old 09-21-2013, 06:25 PM   #20
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Stephanie, PM sent.

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Old 09-21-2013, 07:12 PM   #21
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All I know is that our fridge worked very good as it came out of the box, and was quite convenient for the 3 months we spent in the camper last winter. Others type of camping may certainly be different from ours, and equipment type and installation should be adapted to accommodate each persons needs. I tell our kids this all the time, get several opinions and choose the one you like best, and it doesn't have to be mine. As for extra insulation, that reminds me of the idea some years ago to wrap your home hot water heater with extra insulation to save energy. Maybe a good idea, but as the service guy that had to work on those things, I hated it. Made my job harder and more time consuming, and the customers were charged on a time basis.
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:23 PM   #22
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Thanks to everyone for the help. I finally installed my fridge.
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Old 10-02-2013, 07:04 AM   #23
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I missed this one all together. I built the box and put an eye bolt on either side. I then put a ratchet strap over the whole thing and tightened it threw the front bin hole. Sorry I don't have any pictures of this. But it works great and I have no water under it what so ever.
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Old 10-02-2013, 07:24 AM   #24
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Chris; that's a quicker solution than mine, and easier too. My dorm fridge is bolted down at all 4 corners.
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Old 10-02-2013, 07:26 AM   #25
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Had the parts laying around and know I want to Putin a little larger unit later so I was looking for quick and easy to update. I just can't bring myself to cut out for a bigger fridge yet. So the overflow goes in a cooler.
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Old 10-02-2013, 07:51 AM   #26
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We also usually take a cooler, but when we wintered in GA last year we took a second dorm fridge that we kept on the table in the screen room. Now we are considering a slightly larger fridge that has a separate freezer compartment, to replace the screen room fridge. At a recent rally, someone had a Black & Decker fridge they got at Walmart that looked like a good size, and they have a deal now for a few extra dollars it includes a microwave. Had to slightly enlarge the original ice box opening to fit the dorm fridge, about 1" each way. Won't cut it more, size fridge we have is good.
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