install of 110 dorm fridge - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-23-2013, 05:19 AM   #1
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install of 110 dorm fridge

Hello, I have a Ct Uhaul. I want to remove the icebox and install a 110 dorm fridge. Any info as how to raise it, make it flush, and secure it without drilling into camper itself would be greatly appreciated. Sorry not selling icebox goung in storage. Thanks.
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:56 AM   #2
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I did it on our Uhaul. Basically built a plywood box for the fridge to set on, fastened that to the floor with angle brackets, used some more angle & corner brackets to fasten the fridge to the box. Had to slightly enlarge the opening in the fiberglass to fit the fridge in. I had typed a more detailed explanation earlier, but the site went down for maintenance and my message was lost. Don't have time right now to go through the whole thing again as I have to go out for a while but will answer later if you need more info. Bob
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Old 08-23-2013, 09:05 AM   #3
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I have pix of dorm fridge install which illustrates attachment similar to Bob's.

Update on dorm fridge install--Burro 17

I have removed the Reflectix insulation from the sides after being told that I would block heat dissipation thru the shell. The drawbacks of these fridges are the limits of off-grid DC power generation, cost and weight of onboard battery storage, and cost of equipment for, and efficiency losses in, conversion to AC power. For on-grid use, they provide "real world" refrigeration temperatures and will make ice.

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Old 08-23-2013, 09:33 AM   #4
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Thanks that is great info. Have either of you had to put a catch pan or drain for any water from condensation?
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Old 08-23-2013, 10:17 AM   #5
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I have no catch pan with or without floor drain.

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Old 08-23-2013, 11:22 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephanie reed View Post
Thanks that is great info. Have either of you had to put a catch pan or drain for any water from condensation?
Any condensation will be inside the refrigerator, if left operating. This was reinforced to me when I plugged in my trailer to charge the battery, but forgot that the fridge was turned to the AC position with the door propped open. Result - a puddle of water on the bottom of the fridge
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Old 08-23-2013, 01:21 PM   #7
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The dorm fridge works great for us as we spent 3 months last winter in the south at a campground with full hookups. We also had a second fridge in the screen room. When camping with no electric hookup we just use a cooler and ice.
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Old 08-23-2013, 02:34 PM   #8
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Here again, same solution as Bob and Mary's. In addition to the built-in dorm fridge, we carry a Coleman upright cooler secured in the shower for travel. Once on site, it immedately goes outside. It has removable trays and an ice basin but can be placed on its back as a simple chest cooler. Seen a lot of miles before we ever thought of getting a trailer. It has adapted well to the roll of off-grid ice box. This is a belt and suspenders arrangement that works for some. For others, it's an inadequate kludge beyond all patience and understanding and that's OK also.

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Old 08-23-2013, 02:56 PM   #9
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Dorm fridge finally online

Link contains pix of dorm fridge installation in galley cabinet in Burro. The fridge can be secured to the cabinet wall or a plywood platform on the floor of the cabinet or both.

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Old 08-23-2013, 03:44 PM   #10
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Jack, with the upright cooler, how does it, or you, deal with the water from melting ice? And do you think it holds as much stuff as piling it in a conventional cooler where whatever you want is always at the bottom, and once removed won't fit back in!!
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Old 08-23-2013, 05:43 PM   #11
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Bob, these old Coleman convertibles are still being sold on eBay, for considerably more than what they sold for in the mid-70s. There was another all steel version in the fifties which had shelf hangers of steel wire. The injection molded door of the 70s version was "updated" in the 80's with a wood grain fridge door insert look. I like the 70s model the best.

The plastic liner is slotted for the movable shelves and the rectangular ice container with lid and drain spigot. The weakness of these is that the shelves and ice bucket are very thin and break if thrown around or abused. Mine has one corner gone from the ice bucket lid. My wife and I both like the fact that open food packages are not subject to a dunking. I would guess that it holds a bit less than a 2.8 cu. ft. fridge, particularly as no large bottles or Brita pitchers can be stored on the door.

It's a shame, IMO, that no one makes this design at this time as insulation must have improved in forty years. I make ice at home by freezing in the bottom half of gallon milk jugs. The ice bucket will hold four to six of these on edge. Last October, we went for seven days and still had ice although on the grid and operating dorm fridge the final two nites. Stuck with bagged ice once the home frozen blocks are gone but the old thing is still pretty useful, if only as a beer and soda cooler. There are currently a half dozen of these on eBay. Look closely as some are missing shelves or the ice container.

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Old 08-23-2013, 06:23 PM   #12
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Jack, thanks for the info, I thought they were still available new. Saw one somewhere a while back but can't remember where.
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:40 PM   #13
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Bob, if you find a current offering on this configuration, please let me know. Thanks.

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Old 09-21-2013, 08:05 AM   #14
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I have started install of my dorm fridge but ran into a question. Never using rivets. I want to install brackets on the front of fridge to hold in place ...my question is are there rivets small enough to go into fridge outer cover but not too deep to puncture inside. I cant see how far I can go as it is sealed and don't want to damage it.
Thanks Steph
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