Install padlock on exterior of Trillium - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-07-2013, 06:56 PM   #1
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Name: Shelley
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Install padlock on exterior of Trillium

Need some advise....the door on my Trillium has a lock that does not always secure the door. I want to install a padlock to use when transporting the trailer. Any suggestions on what to use and is it OK to drill into the fibreglass ??? Any direction you can give me, would be appreciated. Thanks, Shelley
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Old 06-07-2013, 06:59 PM   #2
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Just make sure if you do this that you lock the lock in the open hasp if you are in the trailer preventing you from being locked in!

Guess why I know this?
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:06 PM   #3
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Thanks ED...thought of that and I will be careful !!!!
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:08 PM   #4
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It's your trailer and you need to do what you need to do...

But, I'd try to figure out WHY the door isn't staying shut and locked under tow, rather than add a bandaid... especially something that's fugly.
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:15 PM   #5
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I agree with Donna, a hasp type lock looks a lot better on a chicken coop.
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:36 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
It's your trailer and you need to do what you need to do...

But, I'd try to figure out WHY the door isn't staying shut and locked under tow, rather than add a bandaid... especially something that's fugly.
Yep.
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Old 06-08-2013, 07:32 AM   #7
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Plus one on why? And fix that.
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Old 06-08-2013, 08:34 AM   #8
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I had to remove and replace the door on both Trill I have owned but before I could get to it and get into it I had to have a quick fix as my door would also fly open as I drove down the road.
Pretty common feature on an older Trillium I think.

The Trillium door looks just like the Scamp or Casita 16' aircraft hatch door but the door jamb is actually a wooden filled space inside the fiberglass and the wood just rots away after a while.
When this happens the screws holding the door lose purchase and the door goes crooked.
Also the door itself seems to deform somewhat and no longer line up well in the opening.

I discovered this and then had to come up with a fix?
I drilled several 1/8" holes in the jamb to see where there might be solid wood and where there was none first.

Then I got some runny epoxy from a body shop supply place and mixed a batch up and used a syringe to slowly inject the epoxy into the holes until I saw it start to run out the holes below them.

I let this setup a few days and then did it again until I felt the entire hollow jamb cavity where wood had rotted was replaced with newly hardened epoxy that I had injected.

After that it was a simple matter of using a Gaffers Tape to rehang the door exactly as correctly as I could and then marking new holes for the hinge attachment to the trailer.

Then I could drill the hinge mounts into the newly repaired jamb and remount the door.

All is fine after that as the hinges now are where they need to be to ensure proper operation of the door and latch system. I also abandoned the idea of using screws to mount the door on both sides of the hinge and drilled all the way through for SS bolts and Nyloc nuts just to be sure the door would not come off.

If you look at woodworking stores or home repair places they sell a runny epoxy as a floor or wood rot repair. It turns out this is really just a very pricey runny epoxy and exactly what I used but buying at wholesale I was able to get a large can for a fraction of the retail price.

Make Sense?

Ed
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