Installing A/C through the wall advice wanted - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 05-11-2011, 04:35 PM   #15
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Name: Michael
Trailer: 1985 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 107
Originally Posted by CindyL View Post
Well, clearly they are not in chronological order. We painted the red cooler blue to match our decor.

Here are the rest. And oops about the sideways one. I can change it, but am leaving for supper in a few.


That is too cool. I like it when you can come up with simple, inexpensive solutions that are nothing less that art. The creativity of the folks here astound me. If you haven't seen it yet, go look at the Mario paint job. You guys are amazing.

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Old 05-11-2011, 07:11 PM   #16
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Name: Cindy
Trailer: 1988 Bigfoot Silver Cloud
Posts: 2,404
Thank you! I dreamed it up. Hubby engineered it and was sneaky about it. When I suggested the cooler idea, he gave no response. Next day, he was cutting up a cooler.

I just wanted something that looked natural. Hubby even had someone ask for a cold one from the cooler when we stayed at Yellowstone.

The down side is that it takes up a little foot room on the bed.


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Old 05-13-2011, 08:42 AM   #17
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Name: Michael
Trailer: 1985 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 107
Originally Posted by CindyL View Post
Big Mike:

We cut a hole in the back of our Burro, right above the couch platform, built a platform for the window air conditioner to balance on behind the Burro wall. The platform was supported by a bracket connected to the bumper.
We then cut apart a cooler. When the air conditioner was not in use, we used bungie cords to hold the cooler on, so it looked like a cooler attached to the back of the Burro. We drove with the cooler on too.

I can post pix if you want.

Dear Cindy

After I let the 3 way fridge run all night on 110, it was not even chilled slightly. As I was finished removing the cabinet and the old 3-way, I began to get an idea from yours. I cut the working components from the back of the fridge with my wife's jig saw, without damaging the lines for the refrigerant. (Yes, it was her jig saw. She asked for it specifically for her birthday 2 years ago.) I now have a box, open on both ends with a very sturdy plastic flange that is very heavily insulated. I can now fabricate a drip pan and a flange mount for the other end of this box. The plastic lining from the fridge will do well in a wet environment and the insulation should decrease some of the inside noise. Thanks for sharing your idea as it morphed into a simpler solution for me. Fabrication is a bit down the road since I ended up removing all but one of the cabinets. Since I have gone this far, I am probably going to paint it inside and out before reassembly. I am going to use stainless steel button head bolts for reassembly. Of course it goes without saying that I will use never seize on the bolts when the time comes. The big deal for me was if I ever want to take the cabinets out again, I can have one person on the outside with an allen head wrench and remove them without damaging either the fiberglass and new paint, and I won't have to buy new acorn head rivets each time.

Thank you very much!

P.S. In case anyone is wondering, the working parts of the back of the fridge went to a scrapper that reclaims the refrigerant.
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Old 05-13-2011, 08:51 AM   #18
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Name: Peter
Trailer: 1971 Amerigo
Posts: 252
Big Props Cindy!
If you're going to have an AC extended outside the body the Cooler Cover is a brilliant idea.
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Old 05-14-2011, 06:29 AM   #19
Trailer: (fiberglass)
Posts: 66
AC install

go to youtube and there is a video on there showing how someone put an AC unit in their Scamp , this may give you some ideas. thanks
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:11 PM   #20
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Name: Michael
Trailer: 1985 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 107
Originally Posted by BigMike View Post
Hi Bill

That's what I like about this forum. So many crafty people helping each other out.

I am formulating a plan in my mind to create an intake manifold that would draw air in from outside through a vent that a previous owner installed. Though it is patched, at least I won't have to cut a hole. I am thinking about using some silver flexible dryer vent hose (4 in)

Here are some pics of the louvered aluminum cover with screen taped over it temporarily, and the dryer vent outside. The hole inside is patched with something with blue stripes on it. I also included a couple of pics of my finished floor repair. I don't like the fumes from the fiberglass resin at all.
Hi Group!

It has been almost a month since I posted this. I wanted to update my progress. I now have the A/C installed and it works well. Here are some pictures of how I did it. The first one is the shelf/drain tray. I put a pretty good pitch on it and cut two triangles of plywood with a 45 degree cut to direct the condensation to the drain hole.

The second shot is how I isolated the exhaust/wet side and the intake.

The third shot is from the inside of the air intake chamber with the flanges I used for the duct work. I bought these at Home Depot and they are quick disconnects for dryer vents so you can clean out the duct. I cut the tabs off and mounted them through the side of the closet.

The fourth shot shows the duct connected to the outside flanges. I opted for two air intakes because I just did not think that one four inch duct would provide enough air flow. I am not even sure that two will be enough but it seems to work well enough.

The last shot shows the unit from the outside. It is rough right now but after I get everything else done on it, I will go back and clean up the exterior. I'm trying to find it in my budget to repaint this year.
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:01 PM   #21
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Name: Jay
Trailer: 70's 13' Scamp
Posts: 30
Nice work. Let me know how the airflow works out. I put an inline fan to draw in air but wondered if it might be overkill.

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