Installing an awning - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV



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Old 04-17-2019, 03:11 PM   #15
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Name: Alan
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When I installed the rail on my Perrin pacer ( like others) I made sure that all the stainless steel bolts were hidden inside cabinets.... easy pezzy
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Old 04-17-2019, 04:14 PM   #16
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Lots of difference.

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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
... I don't think there is all that much difference actually but it was Scamps recommendation.
Lots of difference in how they distribute the load. Also, some rivets are made to be water tight, and some are not.

Harold
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Old 04-18-2019, 10:29 AM   #17
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Thank you Greg,
BTW where did you put your spare tire? We had Larry G put on a spare tire hitch as we told Casita to leave the spare tire unmounted, no through bolt.
John
This may not work for everybody, but it works great for me. Of course having a pickup vs an SUV makes it more "do-able." I just took some scrap ends of various metal I had lying around in the garage from previous projects and welded up my own spare tire carrier. It carries the spare vertically, so it doesn't take up a lot of bed area in the truck. It rides right behind the wheel well, so it's out of the way but still handy if I need it. I just use one of the heavy rubber bungee cords and secure it to the side of the truck bed. When I'm not camping I just pick it up and stand it in the corner of my garage until I need it again.

As a side note, I have since trimmed down the longer flat bar on the bottom to be the same length as the rear one. I found that the longer one wasn't necessary, as the whole assembly rides very well and doesn't tip or wobble without the long piece being there.
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Old 04-18-2019, 10:39 AM   #18
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Lots of difference in how they distribute the load. Also, some rivets are made to be water tight, and some are not.

Harold
I'm not a big fan of rivets in general, but I will admit they do have their place in certain applications. Rather than use rivets to mount my rail, (which many do as an alternative to VHB tape,) I opted for 1/4" X 20 stainless machine screws and large fender washers with Nylock nuts to mount it. All my fasteners are hidden inside the upper cabinets as well, so you don't see any of the washers and nuts sticking out inside the trailer. They're all inside the cabinets.

Personally, I've never seen a "water-tight" rivet that actually lived up to that claim, unless it was bedded with a good sealant before compressing it.
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Old 04-18-2019, 11:12 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Casita Greg View Post
I'm not a big fan of rivets in general, but I will admit they do have their place in certain applications. Rather than use rivets to mount my rail, (which many do as an alternative to VHB tape,) I opted for 1/4" X 20 stainless machine screws and large fender washers with Nylock nuts to mount it. All my fasteners are hidden inside the upper cabinets as well, so you don't see any of the washers and nuts sticking out inside the trailer. They're all inside the cabinets.

Personally, I've never seen a "water-tight" rivet that actually lived up to that claim, unless it was bedded with a good sealant before compressing it.
I agree, machine screws and Nylock nuts is a better solution for fiberglass (they also help avoid over-torquing), but it's more expensive and more time consuming, so manufacturers default to rivets and plastic caps to prevent water ingress.

Rivet leakage can be from the rivet to fiberglass interface, which the proper sealant will mitigate. The other potential leakage point is the rivet to stem interface. Most rivets found in your local hardware store are open at both ends, and locally, I can only find aluminum rivets. I use pop rivets in a manufacturing project, and order steel pop rivets on Amazon. Stanley, maker of Pop rivets, does have a closed-end rivet where water tightness is important. You would still need sealant on the outer interface for fiberglass, I think. (Still, for my Scamp I prefer screws and Nylock nuts to avoid over torquing and crushing the 44-year-old fiberglass.)

https://www.stanleyengineeredfasteni...pop-closed-end

Harold
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