Installing an Awning Rail - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-13-2010, 10:16 AM   #1
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Hi there all, I'm purchasing a "supreme bag awning" from Interwest Sports.

http://www.interwestsports.com/bag%20awnings.html

I was wondering if I should use rivets or SS bolts?? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks once again,
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Old 07-13-2010, 11:29 AM   #2
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Hi there all, I'm purchasing a "supreme bag awning" from Interwest Sports.

http://www.interwestsports.com/bag%20awnings.html

I was wondering if I should use rivets or SS bolts?? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks once again,

SS bolts all the way. They are stronger and can be removed if necessary. Rivets are generally aluminum and weaker and do corrode (although it takes a while). Once they break or need replacing you usually have to go to a larger size as the hole is usually enlarged from wear and/or having to drill out the old rivet. Rivets, because of the design are somewhat difficult to make perfectly water tight. With a bolt you can add a rubber washer. The one plus with a rivet is if you have insulation you don't have to remove it to slip on a nut.
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Old 07-13-2010, 01:39 PM   #3
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Paul, not to be disagreable, but I have used rivets to install 3 awning rails on fiberglass trailers and one on my slide in PU camper.
The rail has been on my truck camper for almost 5 years and is still sound and leak free. I just used rivets to install a rail on my new to me 16 ft. Scamp.
Rivets are quick and invisible on the inside of the trailer.
I am refurbishing another 16 Scamp and the only problems I am having is the overly large holes, cracking and rust stains where bolts were used in place of rivets.
I think anything that is 35 years old, put together with rivets and is still in good shape proves the value of rivets.

Good luck,
John
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Old 07-14-2010, 03:55 PM   #4
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This might help you:
Shademaker Awning Install
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Old 07-17-2010, 05:27 PM   #5
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This might help you:
Shademaker Awning Install
Hi there folks, I have 1 more question. What size would you recommend for a 13' Trillium. I was thinking of going with a 10' awning?? Do you think this is too long for my trailer??

Thanks in advance,
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Old 07-17-2010, 07:43 PM   #6
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If you were still doing the bag awning, I'd consider the 8' or max 9' considering your body is only 10' long and that should be at the mid point. A 10' bag awning will hang over one, the other or both ends while towing.
What does your tape measurer say? Think wind resistance while towing. Unless of course you are going to remove it each and every time you tow.
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Old 07-18-2010, 08:22 AM   #7
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Paul, I installed a 10' shademaster on my 13' Trill. Works OK except the receptacles for the rafter arms (little round nylon cups ) had to be positioned below the ends of the bag...on the curved part of the trailer. Works OK but you have to drill new holes in the rafter arm for the detent spring to allow for a shorter length. These awnings were designed for slab-sided trailers such as pop-ups. Other than that, if you don't mind those minor mods, you will gain the extra 2' over a more conventional install.
Read my caveats on a previous post about the quality of the intrawest product.
PM me if you need more info.
If you have a factory rail on already, you will need to remove it and put a new one higher up so that the bag clears the door.
Good luck...Alistair & Inge in the Road Toad
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Old 08-01-2010, 04:31 PM   #8
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Hi there folks, just an update. I've purchased a bag awning 8' & it came here on Friday. I was debating on installing it (the rail) aprox 6" or so above the rail guard above the door to prevent the awning rubbing the door. Where have you all mounted your awning. Any picts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks once again,
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Old 08-01-2010, 10:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Richter View Post
Hi there folks, just an update. I've purchased a bag awning 8' & it came here on Friday. I was debating on installing it (the rail) aprox 6" or so above the rail guard above the door to prevent the awning rubbing the door. Where have you all mounted your awning. Any picts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks once again,
I have 6 inches from the bottom of the awning rail to the top of the drip cap over the door.
Hope this helps,
John
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Awning.jpg  
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Old 08-02-2010, 09:42 AM   #10
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I have 6 inches from the bottom of the awning rail to the top of the drip cap over the door.
Hope this helps,
John
Hi there Perry, How long is your rail. I have 8' total, I have read in some other threads that people have cut their rails various sizes.

Thanks,
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Old 08-02-2010, 10:07 AM   #11
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SS bolts all the way. They are stronger and can be removed if necessary. Rivets are generally aluminum and weaker and do corrode (although it takes a while). Once they break or need replacing you usually have to go to a larger size as the hole is usually enlarged from wear and/or having to drill out the old rivet. Rivets, because of the design are somewhat difficult to make perfectly water tight. With a bolt you can add a rubber washer. The one plus with a rivet is if you have insulation you don't have to remove it to slip on a nut.
Use aluminum rivets! Stainless steel rivets require too much pressure to "pop"and could actually crush the area around the drill hole.
Also if you can't use a rivet washer on the blind side use a rivet which is a bit longer than you think is necessary,this gives you more support on the blind side.
Also the awning rail is aluminum and more compatible long term against corrosion.
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Old 08-02-2010, 10:12 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
Use aluminum rivets! Stainless steel rivets require too much pressure to "pop"and could actually crush the area around the drill hole.
Also if you can't use a rivet washer on the blind side use a rivet which is a bit longer than you think is necessary,this gives you more support on the blind side.
Also the awning rail is aluminum and more compatible long term against corrosion.

Hi there Floyd, I was planning on using rivets (closed end). I try to keep using stuff that's original as possible.

Thanks
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Old 08-02-2010, 10:22 AM   #13
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Hi there Perry, How long is your rail. I have 8' total, I have read in some other threads that people have cut their rails various sizes.

Thanks,
Paul, a have a 10 awning. I cut the awning rail about 4 inches longer than the rail insert on the awning.
John
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Old 08-02-2010, 05:09 PM   #14
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I have 6 inches from the bottom of the awning rail to the top of the drip cap over the door.
Hope this helps,
John
Hi there John I was wondering if you had to any mods to your awning arms. I have read in some older posts that people have had issues.

Thanks,
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