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07-13-2010, 09:16 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 1971 13 ft
Posts: 101
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Hi there all, I'm purchasing a "supreme bag awning" from Interwest Sports.
http://www.interwestsports.com/bag%20awnings.html
I was wondering if I should use rivets or SS bolts?? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks once again,
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07-13-2010, 10:29 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 17.5 ft and 25 ft FB Bigfoot
Posts: 208
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SS bolts all the way. They are stronger and can be removed if necessary. Rivets are generally aluminum and weaker and do corrode (although it takes a while). Once they break or need replacing you usually have to go to a larger size as the hole is usually enlarged from wear and/or having to drill out the old rivet. Rivets, because of the design are somewhat difficult to make perfectly water tight. With a bolt you can add a rubber washer. The one plus with a rivet is if you have insulation you don't have to remove it to slip on a nut.
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07-13-2010, 12:39 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: Toyota Sunrader and 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 975
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Paul, not to be disagreable, but I have used rivets to install 3 awning rails on fiberglass trailers and one on my slide in PU camper.
The rail has been on my truck camper for almost 5 years and is still sound and leak free. I just used rivets to install a rail on my new to me 16 ft. Scamp.
Rivets are quick and invisible on the inside of the trailer.
I am refurbishing another 16 Scamp and the only problems I am having is the overly large holes, cracking and rust stains where bolts were used in place of rivets.
I think anything that is 35 years old, put together with rivets and is still in good shape proves the value of rivets.
Good luck,
John
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07-14-2010, 02:55 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1981 13 ft Scamp / Nissan Titan
Posts: 1,852
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07-17-2010, 04:27 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 1971 13 ft
Posts: 101
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Hi there folks, I have 1 more question. What size would you recommend for a 13' Trillium. I was thinking of going with a 10' awning?? Do you think this is too long for my trailer??
Thanks in advance,
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07-17-2010, 06:43 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
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If you were still doing the bag awning, I'd consider the 8' or max 9' considering your body is only 10' long and that should be at the mid point. A 10' bag awning will hang over one, the other or both ends while towing.
What does your tape measurer say? Think wind resistance while towing. Unless of course you are going to remove it each and every time you tow.
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07-18-2010, 07:22 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 13 ft 1973
Posts: 265
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Paul, I installed a 10' shademaster on my 13' Trill. Works OK except the receptacles for the rafter arms (little round nylon cups ) had to be positioned below the ends of the bag...on the curved part of the trailer. Works OK but you have to drill new holes in the rafter arm for the detent spring to allow for a shorter length. These awnings were designed for slab-sided trailers such as pop-ups. Other than that, if you don't mind those minor mods, you will gain the extra 2' over a more conventional install.
Read my caveats on a previous post about the quality of the intrawest product.
PM me if you need more info.
If you have a factory rail on already, you will need to remove it and put a new one higher up so that the bag clears the door.
Good luck...Alistair & Inge in the Road Toad
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08-01-2010, 03:31 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 1971 13 ft
Posts: 101
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Hi there folks, just an update. I've purchased a bag awning 8' & it came here on Friday. I was debating on installing it (the rail) aprox 6" or so above the rail guard above the door to prevent the awning rubbing the door. Where have you all mounted your awning. Any picts would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks once again,
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08-01-2010, 09:30 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: Toyota Sunrader and 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Richter
Hi there folks, just an update. I've purchased a bag awning 8' & it came here on Friday. I was debating on installing it (the rail) aprox 6" or so above the rail guard above the door to prevent the awning rubbing the door. Where have you all mounted your awning. Any picts would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks once again,
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I have 6 inches from the bottom of the awning rail to the top of the drip cap over the door.
Hope this helps,
John
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08-02-2010, 08:42 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 1971 13 ft
Posts: 101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry J
I have 6 inches from the bottom of the awning rail to the top of the drip cap over the door.
Hope this helps,
John
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Hi there Perry, How long is your rail. I have 8' total, I have read in some other threads that people have cut their rails various sizes.
Thanks,
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08-02-2010, 09:07 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamid
SS bolts all the way. They are stronger and can be removed if necessary. Rivets are generally aluminum and weaker and do corrode (although it takes a while). Once they break or need replacing you usually have to go to a larger size as the hole is usually enlarged from wear and/or having to drill out the old rivet. Rivets, because of the design are somewhat difficult to make perfectly water tight. With a bolt you can add a rubber washer. The one plus with a rivet is if you have insulation you don't have to remove it to slip on a nut.
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Use aluminum rivets! Stainless steel rivets require too much pressure to "pop"and could actually crush the area around the drill hole.
Also if you can't use a rivet washer on the blind side use a rivet which is a bit longer than you think is necessary,this gives you more support on the blind side.
Also the awning rail is aluminum and more compatible long term against corrosion.
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08-02-2010, 09:12 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 1971 13 ft
Posts: 101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd
Use aluminum rivets! Stainless steel rivets require too much pressure to "pop"and could actually crush the area around the drill hole.
Also if you can't use a rivet washer on the blind side use a rivet which is a bit longer than you think is necessary,this gives you more support on the blind side.
Also the awning rail is aluminum and more compatible long term against corrosion.
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Hi there Floyd, I was planning on using rivets (closed end). I try to keep using stuff that's original as possible.
Thanks
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08-02-2010, 09:22 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: Toyota Sunrader and 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Richter
Hi there Perry, How long is your rail. I have 8' total, I have read in some other threads that people have cut their rails various sizes.
Thanks,
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Paul, a have a 10 awning. I cut the awning rail about 4 inches longer than the rail insert on the awning.
John
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08-02-2010, 04:09 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 1971 13 ft
Posts: 101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry J
I have 6 inches from the bottom of the awning rail to the top of the drip cap over the door.
Hope this helps,
John
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Hi there John I was wondering if you had to any mods to your awning arms. I have read in some older posts that people have had issues.
Thanks,
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08-02-2010, 08:31 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: Toyota Sunrader and 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Richter
Hi there John I was wondering if you had to any mods to your awning arms. I have read in some older posts that people have had issues.
Thanks,
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This is my second Shademaker awning.
I haven't had any reason to modify either one. I think they're great.
John
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08-08-2010, 09:29 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 1971 13 ft
Posts: 101
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Thanks folks for all your suggestions & comments. I'll post some picts once I get the time to do the job. I'm going to try & take a lot of picts to document the process that I did.
Thanks again,
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09-26-2010, 07:28 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 1971 13 ft
Posts: 101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Richter
Thanks folks for all your suggestions & comments. I'll post some picts once I get the time to do the job. I'm going to try & take a lot of picts to document the process that I did.
Thanks again,
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Hi there folks, my wife & I have just installed our awning. Here are a few picts. I had to do no modifications. Thanks all of you who replied, it was all very useful as usual.
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