Installing boler front/rear windows - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-09-2011, 11:42 PM   #1
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Name: ronny
Trailer: 74 boler
British Columbia
Posts: 53
Installing boler front/rear windows

the boler is coming home tomorrow w/paint!


Noww.....i need to put the front and rear windows back in. They came out soo easy. Soo easy that I know putting them back in is going to be a bitch!

Has anyone done these and could provide me with some tips to get em back in there as easy as possible?
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Old 02-10-2011, 12:12 AM   #2
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Name: Joe
Trailer: Outback trillium trailer
Alberta
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Boler resoration by Trillium

Hi there, well funny enough we have 8 boler's in our shop right now that we are restoring. We do many restoration's as well as manufacture brand new Outback customs by trillium. The boler window's we are replacing new seal's and new window's and we would be happy to guide you along the way as we proceed with the installation of window's in the shop. Please stay in touch. I am not sure how often we will be checking the forum so you might find a quicker response through our e-mail please visit our website www.trilliumtrailers.net and you can send your request's through that e-mail address. Thx
Joe and Reece Thoen.

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Originally Posted by thenoob View Post
the boler is coming home tomorrow w/paint!


Noww.....i need to put the front and rear windows back in. They came out soo easy. Soo easy that I know putting them back in is going to be a bitch!

Has anyone done these and could provide me with some tips to get em back in there as easy as possible?
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Old 02-10-2011, 12:29 AM   #3
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Name: Randy
Trailer: 1975 Boler 1300
Alberta
Posts: 119
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Windows

As it happens I did both front and back windows on my 75 boler twice in the past couple of weeks. The first time I put the original seal and lockstrip in only to find that there was a tear in one of the seals that would result in a certain leak. I ordered new material from Scamp and then did them again. Putting the windows into the original seal was slightly easier than the same operation with the new rubber because the old stuff retained the shape of the corners while the new was straight and didn't want to make those tight turns.
It is not a really difficult job and I did it without anyone around to help. A second set of hands would certainly make it easier though.

Here are a few things I learned.
1. You really need a lockstrip tool. I used that and an old butter knife to get that last tough corner in.
2. Some form of lubrication really helps. I used Dow Corning 111 Valve Lubricant and Sealant that I found at Acklands. I tried to get in to the channel the plexi fits into as well as the lockstrip groove. Lubricants suggested by others may work better as this stuff is pretty gooey.
3. If you are putting new rubber in make sure you leave a good half an inch of overlap after fitting it into the opening before cutting. I ended up with a nice tight fit at the ends with the new rubber.
4. I read on an automotive site that the lockstrip should be on the outside of the vehicle because the system is designed to tighten when air pressure is applied to the lockstrip side. Pressure applied to the other side may result in the window coming out of the seal.
5. Due to the requirement in 4, be very careful of your new paint job while using the lockstrip tool. A lot of pressure is required to spread the seal and the thing likes to pop out and hit new paint jobs.

If I have missed something or if you have any specific questions let me know and I will try to answer them.
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Old 02-10-2011, 06:38 AM   #4
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Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
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KevinH a member here, put a couple of YouTube videoes out a couple of years ago. Watch first!

YouTube - Boler trailer Window Installation Part ONE

YouTube - Boler trailer Window Installation Part TWO


Buy a lockstrip tool!!!!!!
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Old 02-10-2011, 09:34 PM   #5
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Name: Matt
Trailer: U-Haul VT16, Escape 19
California
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Video 1 really hurts. I appreciate Kevin's effort but.... Can you imagine folks at the scamp factory with butter knives, screwdrivers and such, doing this, 3 or 4 inches at a time?

Try this:

1. Install the new gasket around the glass.
2. Get some 3/8" nylon clothesline/rope
3. Tuck the rope into the channel of the gasket where the window frame will go. Go all the way around to overlap and tape the loose ends up against the inside middle of the glass (top or bottom) with some masking tape.
4. Have a helper align the glass against the opening from the outside.
5. Get in the trailer and SLOWLY pull the rope out as the lip pulls into the trailer.

A little liquid soap makes things go easier. It takes about a minute.

Then you can do the lockstrip. Although some people cheat and install that first.
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:28 AM   #6
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Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
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I'm going to pay to have the front window in my Scamp replaced. I've got the materials, just not enough energy for the effort. DannyH found someone locally that did the work for about $100. Seems like money well spent to me. The back window is flat... where the front window has that compound curve.
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