Installing new drip cap for entry door

[Rick W in MI]

I was going through the box of parts I found inside my Boler when I purchased it and found the original drip cap for the entry door. It was not bent just tarnished. I buffed it out and am ready to install it.
My question is do I just cut a ribbon of Buytl tape, place it on the back side, position it then drill holes, or drill holes first, and then line up and rivet it in place?
As it sat in the field all those years before it's rescue the cap was off and the door had two inch wide one inch thick foam stuck to the inside of the door. I have to say it did keep it dry which is good. I however have on order new door seal from Scamp. The door is true so I feel it will give a proper seal. Am I on the right track or is there a better solution that I haven't seen yet?

Thanks,
Rick W.

[John in Michigan]

Seems it would be better to pre-drill the holes through the fiberglass taking care not to drill through the ensolite. Then apply the butyl tape and rivet.

As I recall my Boler 13 replacement drip cap had holes pre-drilled.

[gordon2]

I would consider forgoing the drip cap altogether in favor of self adhesive gutter.

I found that the drip cap on my Scamp was not very effective. It was only as wide as the door, therefore water came off the ends and came down along the edges of the door. I applied some EZE Gutter over the drip cap and that helped a lot. Perhaps it is the combination of drip cap and longer gutter that works better and the gutter alone might not work as well. But I would try some of this gutter in place of the drip cap. I would mount it lower than I did, closer to where the aluminum drip cap is normally installed. And make it longer than the drip cap to get it well past the door edges, Then see how that works. If it does not work you can remove it with a heat gun and some acetone or Goof Off.

PS, If you do this, pay close attention to the install instructions. It must be done when it is warm and cleaning all wax, etc is critical also.

[John in Michigan]

The original drip cap on my Boler 13 was dented and weathered. The bigger problem was that the sealant between it and the body was no longer water tight. This resulted in water passing behind the drip cap, then coming in through the top of the door and dripping down to the bottom of the door and back out! Took a few rainstorms to realize what was happening.

[Rick W in MI]

Thanks Gordon. I am going to look into that and hold off a bit to drill holes as I check this out. Looks like a great concept and looks nice and clean. I do appreciate the picture also!

Rick W

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by John in Michigan

The original drip cap on my Boler 13 was dented and weathered. The bigger problem was that the sealant between it and the body was no longer water tight. This resulted in water passing behind the drip cap, then coming in through the top of the door and dripping down to the bottom of the door and back out! Took a few rainstorms to realize what was happening.

All the more reason to not drill more holes and try the adhesive gutter. Frankly, If I had that problem, I would remove the drip cap, patch all the holes with fiberglass resin, and try the no-holes version.

[Rick W in MI]

Thanks John, That's why I'm asking. I have seen the regular butyl tape and have also now seen some in a foam form. I haven't used that and was unsure of it's intended use. Any special thoughts on the door seal? Am I on track with a scamp replacement?

Rick W

[John in Michigan]

I always use butyl tape between exterior fittings (window frames, vents, hatches, water inlet/outlet, power inlet/outlet, etc) and the fiberglass body. Not putty tape. Not foam tape.

I don't have a recommendation for the door and door frame seals.

[John in Michigan]

I did use a foam glazing tape when replacing a window pane in one of the sliding window sashes in our Boler 17. First time I had used it. That's an application where its difficult although possible to use butyl tape.

Butyl tape works very well DOUBLE thickness when re-installing Hehr window frames on curved fiberglass surfaces. The key to installing with butyl tape to make sure that it oozes out all along the edges.

[Rick W in MI]

Gordon,

That was easy. Your recommendation means a lot and reading the reviews it looks to be a good product. Some give it a poor review but you have to realize some may not have followed directions as well. For some of us it just takes two tries. I will try and do the proper prep and go from there. I did order it and in two days will look it over and see if indeed that is something I wish to try.

Thanks,

Rick W.

[Borrego Dave]

Howdy guys, don't want to throw a monkey wrench in the works but after living in MI and my wife coming from NC, I've got a question. With heavy rain storms your locations get, does any kind of gutter really make a difference? Now if the rain/wind is coming from the other side.....maybe? If the awning was out I can see it helping with the water coming under it though. BTW, if I was going to install one, I'd use double sided tape. Not because of any holes but it's easier to replace if it gets bent up or rotted by UV.

[k corbin]

There is another even better option for the installation of the drip cap.

Use 3M VHB mounting tape, actually rather perfect for the task Turns the job into one that can be done in under 5 minutes and most of that time is for cleaning the surfaces.

You don't need to use any rivets or butyl tape with it as the mounting tape will hold the cap in place and create the water barrier seal between the cap and the fiberglass. As the drip cap weighs next to nothing it is not going to need any rivets.

But do be sure to read and follow the directions for the surface preparations.

[k corbin]

Originally Posted by Borrego Dave

Howdy guys, don't want to throw a monkey wrench in the works but after living in MI and my wife coming from NC, I've got a question. With heavy rain storms your locations get, does any kind of gutter really make a difference? Now if the rain/wind is coming from the other side.....maybe? If the awning was out I can see it helping with the water coming under it though. BTW, if I was going to install one, I'd use double sided tape. Not because of any holes but it's easier to replace if it gets bent up or rotted by UV.

It makes a big difference on my trailer. It is not going to do that much for the lower part of the door but it is the rain running down from the roof Water coming at it sideways from the wind is not causing the leaks, it is the water streaming in between the gasket and the door frame along that top edge that causes my issues. The cap diverts that water.

[k corbin]

Originally Posted by gordon2

I would consider forgoing the drip cap altogether in favor of self adhesive gutter.

I found that the drip cap on my Scamp was not very effective. It was only as wide as the door, therefore water came off the ends and came down along the edges of the door.

I ordered a cap that was wider than the width of my door. They do come in different widths from just under a foot on up to four feet long. If the one on your trailer is not wide enough just replace it with a wider drip cap that gives better coverage.
https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com...-p/vts-515.htm

[John in Michigan]

Agree with k corbin on both counts. The cap I installed on the Boler 13 was the same size as the one it replaced. It was somewhat wider than the door opening and extended over the top edge of the door frame. Kept rain water from coming in through the top of the door frame when parked.

And VHB tape is worth a try. In my case, I chose to put fasteners into existing holes.

[gordon2]

Reading the comments I have to agree that using VHB tape sounds like a good idea. The drip cap is wider than the gutter so it might work better. If you can, I agree that a longer drip which is maybe 25% wider than the door is a good idea. If you can't do that then just do the drip cap with VHB and the gutter over it as I did. You could do one or two rivets to back up the VHB tape if you wanted because of the high wind load. One or two holes is better than ten! But it should not be needed if you use enough VHB tape and do it properly.

BTW, VHB tape is what comes on the EZE Gutter.

Does the drip cap help? Yes if the rain is not wind blown. I once forgot my door was open and left it open all night through a long rain. (The screen door was shut). The net day I found the interior of the Scamp was still dry! But if its a thunderstorm with wind... well then, thats different.

[John in Michigan]

Just checked Vintage Trailer Supply. They sell the traditional aluminum drip cap in 27 sizes! Scamp Trailer also sells them, but not sure what size(s).