Interesting leak..... - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-09-2009, 06:43 PM   #15
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The Trillium band is put together a bit differently, in that there are mild steel plates glassed into the seam, and then the belly band rivets run parallel to the ground and engage the plates. There is probably some benefit to keeping water out of the plate area, since it can rust and expand (you can often feel them by running your hand along beneath the belly band on the side of the trailer), and then cause unsightly bulges or even leaks.
Yup. That's what I had observed as well - water reaching the glassed-in steel plates along the rivets causes them to rust and the rivets to pop out. Then the rusted plates expand plus the water lingering inside freezes, and creates cracks in the seam over the years. So technically, I imagine the Boler's seam might benefit from the protection depending on how well the resin was squished into the gap and how much water the band lets in, but you're right that it's probably marginal.

That said, I didn't bother putting any caulk myself, as I prefer dealing with leaks when they show up rather than masking them with caulk. If I did put some, I would only put it in the space behind the belly band as a preventive measure and not have it show up anywhere visible.
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Old 03-09-2009, 11:08 PM   #16
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So technically, I imagine the Boler's seam might benefit from the protection depending on how well the resin was squished into the gap and how much water the band lets in, but you're right that it's probably marginal.
Yeah, there really isn't anywhere for the water to go on a Boler as far as I know. Just through the rivet holes and back out the bottom, or maybe under the edge of the band (which seems to not be affected by any water freezing near it, as far as I've seen so far).

Overall I really like the construction of the Trillium (what I originally wanted), but the steel plates were an odd choice. At least they would be repairable without doing anything mega-disruptive like pulling out the interior.

Nice to hear you that you aren't a "glob caulk on topper" World needs more of those

Raya
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Old 03-10-2009, 12:06 AM   #17
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Overall I really like the construction of the Trillium (what I originally wanted), but the steel plates were an odd choice. At least they would be repairable without doing anything mega-disruptive like pulling out the interior.
I'm getting a bit off topic here, but I'm curious as to how you see this, as pulling the ensolite and re-spackling the leak with resin from the inside seems to be one of the common ways to do it on the Trillium. Not mega-disruptive per se, but scary for some nonetheless. The catch is being able to replace the rusty plate with something else like a washer on the inside so a new rivet can be popped-in to pull the belly band back against the seam and then the whole surgery can be glassed-in from the inside for a one-time permanent fix that doesn't leave any holes or screw heads behind.
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Old 03-10-2009, 01:36 AM   #18
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I'm getting a bit off topic here, but I'm curious as to how you see this, as pulling the ensolite and re-spackling the leak with resin from the inside seems to be one of the common ways to do it on the Trillium.
I guess I did leave that a bit vague. Here's what I was thinking (of course this is thinking not actually doing at this point):

1) I would remove the band, then dig out the plates. Unless they had really rusted and swelled a lot, I don't think you would have holes going into the trailer from them. The ones I've seen had bulged out more than in, and were completely on the outside of the glass strip that holds the shells together.

2) If I wanted to re-install the band, I would put in some new plates, pre-drilled for the rivets, that were not mild steel, and then try to rivet carefully so as not to go into the inside of the trailer. If some did poke through of course you would have to patch on the inside.

3) I might elect to eliminate the original belly band (although it is attractive, there is a lot going on for something that is solely cosmetic). I looked at a Trillium that had had this done and the band replaced with a wide, rubber, adhesive molding (IIRC from a Chevy pickup) and it looked pretty good. In that case I would dig out the metal plates and then fill the holes and fair the surface before adhering the new molding.

This is theoretical for now, of course, since I have a Boler

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Old 03-10-2009, 10:16 AM   #19
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1) I would remove the band, then dig out the plates. Unless they had really rusted and swelled a lot, I don't think you would have holes going into the trailer from them. The ones I've seen had bulged out more than in, and were completely on the outside of the glass strip that holds the shells together.
[...]
This is theoretical for now, of course, since I have a Boler
Thing is, the plates are an inch and half high or so, so you would have to do some serious carving through the outside gelcoat in order to get to them, and then a lot of patching to close up every single hole. I would probably leave them in and think of another way to hold the trim. The other thing is that you would have to remove the entire belly band first, and in most cases there's only a couple failed rivet anchors. So, not saying it's not doable, but that you would probably be creating a lot more work than necessary. Plus I'd imagine that most people would want to keep the belly band whenever possible. Good news, though, is that pulling ensolite is (or can be) easier than one might think, and can be glued back on, leaving no visible trace.
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Old 03-10-2009, 02:56 PM   #20
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Well I was thinking of the two or three Trilliums I looked at that had a lot of really rusty plates that had caused bulges and cracks in the gelcoat. I'm not saying I'd do this to every Trillium, but in the former case I would not want to leave the plates in there to continue to do their rusty/expandy thing.

If I were covering over with a new band, I would not have to fair the filled holes to a perfect smoothness (same reason the belly band is on there in the first place - to hide the factory seam so they did not have to make it "flawless").

So, those are just my thoughts, and I might choose my other option, which was to reinstall the band with new plates. I guess it all depends on the Trillium in question and who is doing the work, as far as deciding how to handle any issues.

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Old 03-11-2009, 02:19 AM   #21
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I happened across a photo of the Trillium I was talking about (with the replacement adhesive molding) while searching something else, so I thought I would post a photo. It was previously owned by forum member Charlie C - I looked at it when a subsequent owner had it for sale (and I believe another forum member ended up buying it).

Anyway, as I understand it, Charlie C removed the original riveted on belly band, sealed the holes (not sure if he removed the steel plates or not) and then applied this adhesive molding, which was originally meant for... a Chevy pickup or the like.


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Old 03-11-2009, 08:39 AM   #22
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Here's a couple of pictures of a "smooth Boler". Behind the swing out box on the rear bumper is an access door so that the owner can get his surfboard inside. He has made new window mouldings for the swing-out glass. They appear to be similar to those from a van.
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Old 03-11-2009, 10:22 AM   #23
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That is smooth! I've always liked the "Saturn effect" of the Boler belly-band, but that is really nice looking! Brings out the rounded shape more than I would have thought.

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Old 03-11-2009, 06:37 PM   #24
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So here is how I went about the repair......
Have some of that Elmers fiberglass repair kit (home depot)...its 2 tubs one is resin the other is hardner.....mix, mix, mix spread it on like soft butter on toast on the inside of the trailer waited a day to dry......poured water over spot from the outside.....NO LEAK......going to wait for a big rainstorm to double check and confirm but now, now for today my trailer has no known leaks......Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
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Old 03-11-2009, 11:43 PM   #25
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Wow Brandy, that is a good eye you have. I think I would have went nuts trying to find that leak. Cool.
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Old 04-20-2017, 05:42 PM   #26
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anybody use flex seal is it any good
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