Interior walls - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-02-2012, 02:26 PM   #29
Senior Member
 
Name: Dave
Trailer: Bigfoot 25 RB and Bigfoot 21RB
British Columbia
Posts: 1,143
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyndivg11 View Post
BC Dave,
I'd love to purchase this product- it's exactly what I wanted for sound barrier, and insulation upgrade to my 84 Fiberstream. My trillium had ensolite, sooooo sound proof! That's the one negative I don't like about my fiberstream. Can I purchase this through you?
Cyndi

Yes I can brew up a batch for you

What color would you like it to be? (White is what I mostly get asked for in doing the insides of car doors, while gray seems to be preferred for doing inside the trunk of a car.)

How much do you need/want?

It is water based so is water clean up, and (mostly) odor free.

Odor - free when dry, and as waterproof as any exterior paint

In thinking about it, I sort of suspect that ONE coat would be about equivalent to ensolite in terms of sound and heat insulation, with those properties improving with additional coats, but I since I never thought of it for this use until this thread came along - I do not have any data for comparison. It can painted onto any paintable surface

And I wish I had thought of using it for this purpose years ago! (duh!)
__________________

__________________
BCDave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2012, 03:08 PM   #30
Senior Member
 
Name: Dave
Trailer: Bigfoot 25 RB and Bigfoot 21RB
British Columbia
Posts: 1,143
And then all I gotta do is figure out how to ship it to you! (not sure how one ships a paint-like product across country!)
__________________

__________________
BCDave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2012, 09:00 PM   #31
Senior Member
 
Paul Chet's Avatar
 
Name: Paul
Trailer: Vixen Motor Coach
California
Posts: 219
Registry
Hey Heather,
I am interested to know how your removal of the dome went. I know they are a big source of leaking on most of the Play Pacs and was considering removing mine eventually and redoing it with butyl tape until Jim Riddle mentioned during his removal that the dome was so brittle it cracked! Now he just put plywood over the hole and no more dome.

Not sure if want to risk that as those bad-boys must cost a ton to replace!
__________________
Paul Chet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2012, 06:49 AM   #32
Member
 
Name: Heather
Trailer: 1971 Play Pac
Pennsylvania
Posts: 69
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by BCDave View Post
And then all I gotta do is figure out how to ship it to you! (not sure how one ships a paint-like product across country!)
BCDave, I would be interested in some too if you figure out the shipping. How many gallons for three good coats on a play pac? More than 3? Might be better in a 5 gal option only. Shipping cost is probably gonna be high though.
But keep us posted.

That being said............you commented about not thinking about this products use on fb campers until Donna brought it up, ummmm Donna was replying to MY bringing it up......can I get a finders fee??? Or maybe a discount.....say free shipping, lol!! j/k

Keep us posted!
__________________
imbabyh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2012, 07:10 AM   #33
Member
 
Name: Heather
Trailer: 1971 Play Pac
Pennsylvania
Posts: 69
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Chet View Post
Hey Heather,
I am interested to know how your removal of the dome went. I know they are a big source of leaking on most of the Play Pacs and was considering removing mine eventually and redoing it with butyl tape until Jim Riddle mentioned during his removal that the dome was so brittle it cracked! Now he just put plywood over the hole and no more dome.

Not sure if want to risk that as those bad-boys must cost a ton to replace!
Paul, we had no issue with removing the dome, other than it took two. Ours was in with the nut outside and the bolt inside, so ernie held the bolt and I unscrewed them from the inside. Most of the bolts snapped as they were rusty. We replaced with the nut on the inside, we also used a sm. washer with a rubber seal on the outside to help with leaks, and a larger washer on the inside for added support. It does have a few surface cracks that we plan to fill with resin. The way the area is inset is half the reason it leaks, that little ring just holds water. So we will probably keep the camper covered when not in use to keep the water from standing there.
If you have seen the other post here I have been talking to BCDave about a product for insulation that is a painted on and is paintable. I am waiting to see if the details can be worked out, and if so this is probably what I will use to redo the walls.
If not I have found at www.getrung.com 3/8" foam mats with edges at a super low cost. We want to use the larger 2x2 and have figured a need for 75 pieces (150 for 1x1). This company sell a pack of 6 plus borders, I would purchase 14 packs (84 tiles plus borders) for $270! Until i found this company, $450 was the least expensive I had found but they were 5/8". I don't feel the slighly smaller will make that much difference anywhere other than my pocketbook. And I love the idea of the bordes to work with. If you go to the site you can osign-up for free color samples to be sent. I will go with either the tan or the white.
Still weighing which adhesive to use.
Would you have a suggestion for replacing the lights?
Thanks!!
__________________
imbabyh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2012, 08:30 AM   #34
Senior Member
 
Donna D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
Posts: 24,433
Glad you found something that may work for you Heather. But before you buy tubes of adhesive, be sure to test the foam. It may melt rather than stick? Maybe the manufacturer can give you some adhesive tips.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
Donna D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2012, 11:42 AM   #35
Member
 
Name: Heather
Trailer: 1971 Play Pac
Pennsylvania
Posts: 69
Registry
Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Glad you found something that may work for you Heather. But before you buy tubes of adhesive, be sure to test the foam. It may melt rather than stick? Maybe the manufacturer can give you some adhesive tips.

Thanks Donna i will do that. Most people here have said contact cement or liquid nails. Guess i cn test on my samples.
__________________
imbabyh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2012, 04:17 PM   #36
Senior Member
 
Paul Chet's Avatar
 
Name: Paul
Trailer: Vixen Motor Coach
California
Posts: 219
Registry
thanks for the info about the dome ... i really want to tackle, but it is really under a thick layer of what i think is rubber roof paint. thing is, at one time, the owner before the last one - painted it from the inside! can you believe they painted over what makes these things so extraordinary (and leaky!)??? so the P.O did his best to remove the paint, and then i got up in there with my polisher and buffed it for a whole day to get it as sparkling as ever - but there is still the issue of silicone and what appears to be butyl tape leftovers all over the base of it. wold be so nice to remove it and buff all of this stuff, and re-seat it properly and utilize some fresh butyl tape and start over. just not sure if i want to open that pandora's box ... if you have any photos of your disassembly or what the opening looks like with the dome removed, i can see if it is something i should tackle. if you dont no worries (i ALWAYS forget to take before and during photos!).

are you talking about replacing the running lights? i just installed 14 new LEDs (after some wiring drama - but the good folks here talked me through it and off the ledge!). got them on eBay for only $0.30 more than their incandescent counterparts (it was like $0.55 for and incandescent 1895 bulb replacement and $0.88 for the LED 1895 bulb). for the energy savings, the brightness, and the fact that they will likely last a lot longer than their counterparts, i think it was an awesome deal. if you are talking about these let me know and i will send you the link to the seller.
__________________
Paul Chet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2012, 05:33 PM   #37
Member
 
Name: Heather
Trailer: 1971 Play Pac
Pennsylvania
Posts: 69
Registry
Hey Paul, ok so im on the naughty list for taken before pics sorry I will try to do better. I do not think anyone has every taken our dome out. There was some sort of brown caulk on the outside but that is it. So it was fairly simple. Not sure I would want to tackle yours either with all the layers!! Kinda scary.
Thanks for the light info...please send link. Suggestions for interior. I have the old light in the back above the sitting area and one by the Kitchen sink. Both work but I would like something alittle more up to date. As mine is a '71 updaying should be too hard, lol! The one over the table is one I am most concerned about cause I dont really want to screw holes in the roof to insall, the old one is installed with rivets.

So what was your thought on the foam pads? 3/8vs 5/8s? is this still what you are planning to do?

Please send light link...
Thanks!
__________________
imbabyh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2012, 06:36 AM   #38
Senior Member
 
Cyndivg11's Avatar
 
Name: Cyndi
Trailer: 1984 FiberStream
Pennsylvania
Posts: 148
Registry
Now im seriously considering gutting my fiberstream to apply this product that BCDave mentions to every bit of the interior walls. - hey! If im gonna do it, i might as well do it right, no? Wat is everyone elses opinion? That being said, because i so dislike the old wood particle board cabinets- i hav inquired on this site about covering the cabinets w a veneer wood panel which doesnt seem to be a logical solution- should i then just replace all the cabinets w new? Will these ikea cabinets work? They are stylish and inexpensive. Then of course, i hear from others about keeping the trailer as original as possible. Any serious upgrades, cabinet replacement, takes away from its value. My thoughts are, regardless, the trailer is as worth as much to the right buyer.
__________________
Cyndivg11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2012, 07:34 AM   #39
Senior Member
 
Cyndivg11's Avatar
 
Name: Cyndi
Trailer: 1984 FiberStream
Pennsylvania
Posts: 148
Registry
To BCDave,
I called UPS Hazardous Materials Support Center directly at 1-800-554-9964. Because the item is water-based, it can be shipped. I would be interested in 5 gallons. PM me and we can arrange everything.
Thanks a bunch! Now- I think I should gut the Fiberstream and do this the right way!!!
Cyndi
__________________
Cyndivg11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2012, 08:57 AM   #40
Senior Member
 
Paul Chet's Avatar
 
Name: Paul
Trailer: Vixen Motor Coach
California
Posts: 219
Registry
Cyndi, I say do what makes YOU happy! Life is too short and though these are collectable in a sense, I intend to use the heck outta mine and make it just right. Having said that, I have seen some pretty knuckle headed things done to these, but it sounds like you are trying to class up the joint and yeah, the right buyer will either appreciate it or consider it a canvas to do with it what they want.

Our play pac has issues - I so wish it was closer to original, but in no way did that stop me from getting it. Now that it's been so heavily modified, I am not afraid to make my own!

Hey Heather - no worries! These mods are so time consuming and stressful that thinking to take a picture is usually the last thing on my mind. The real pros here who ENJOY doing this kinda stuff not only take great photos of the step by step, but they make it look easy! I run home after work and think "ok, I have one hour of light left, what can I do ... hmmm, I think I'll sit in my gutted play Pac for 59 minutes just staring, mouth breathing ... and wondering what I got myself into. Then I will spend that last minute actually getting ready to do something, and ... oops, it's dinner time. Better save it for tomorrow (and repeat above).

I have no idea what I'm doing but I figure if I measure twice, cut once, and rely on my 'study sessions' right here on this awesome forum, then I might have a chance. Thing is with these old eggs, you don't want to make too many mistakes or else you end up with a playhouse for your kids.

Thanks for the info on the dome. Yeah I might just leave it be and just clean it up further down to the base and hope the 3 to 4 coats of bed liner will add more waterproofing. It isn't leaking at all and I think my door is really the culprit of my water intrusion. I noticed also that the wet plywood was only after I pressure washed it twice. I would gander that unless I am in a hurricane rain doesn't usually hit it that hard sideways so in a normal situation I might fair well anyway.

Ok, so you were talking about interior lights. We don't have a one! Yup, they either never existed or were removed. I know some play pacs had them overhead and they are the usual old school lights. You can replace these with new LED light kit counterparts which are much brighter and use a fraction of the energy. Since I dont have any, I don't know too much about them but I have seen many here do a similar retrofit. Regarding rivets, you might remove the old light and a short section of 1x4, glue it to the ceiling and glass it in - then you can screw the light to that? I fiberglassed my wood in but it will be supporting a heavy load and I didn't want to take chances. With just a light you might not need to go that far. Here is a link to Kevin's Boler redo ... see how he does the wood blocks (his videos were my guide).

1979 Boler Project trailer

Check out the whole thread too - he makes some very helpful videos, which beat trying to describe some obscure modification concept (read on and you will understand!).

Having no lights of my own, I am doing some nutty stuff. I went to IKEA and bought a bunch of really nice LEDs - I posted here somewhere all about it.

I bought some plastic gutter downspouts (4x4" at home depot) will rip them lengthwise in half, and using the same technique i just used to glass wood to the ceiling and floor, i will glass small blocks of wood to the walls close to the ceiling, bolt some brackets to the wood and attach the ripped spouts (with the open side facing up) to them so the top edges are just a couple of inches below the ceiling - all the way around the entire interior. Inside them i will lay a couple of daisy-chained LED rope lights i bought a while back and ... RV soffit lighting! Does this make any sense? If not, i will be certain to take a bunch of photos. Once we finish the interior and repaint they will look like they are part of the walls. i think it will be very elegant and on a more utilitarian note, since i have that insulation covering the entire interior, i can use these soffits to run other wiring to and fro inside my play pac. I also got some really cool puck lights that gimbal like track lights and I plan to install those in the underside of the soffits at the rear and another really nice light strip that will hang over the kitchen sink/counter, so we should be well lit even if we miss happy hour!

As for foam pads inside, I think it's a pretty clever idea. Since my walls and ceiling are all covered up with 1" foam insulation, I won't need to do much more than find some kind of headliner (some thin material probably like what I had in my old UHAUL camper) just to cover up my mess from adding in the column. I would say that we stay pretty warm in there and dry. With our door sagging, we do lose some warm air (but after my fix I hope this goes away). If your door shuts nice and tight, then you might not need to worry about getting it too thick. Hopefully those here who have already done this might be able to follow up on how their foam squares are working for them?

Regarding replacing the running lights here is the link to the bulbs:
2X White T4W 233 BA9S BA9 1895 7 LED Side Light Lamp Bulb DC 12V NEW | eBay

Take lots of pictures! At the very least a couple of years down the road when you are doing a repair and wondering was the wire here or there, you can go back and save a lot of time and worry!
__________________
Paul Chet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2012, 07:41 PM   #41
Senior Member
 
Donna D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
Posts: 24,433
Cyndi, I agree with Paul, it's your trailer do what makes you happy. My only concern is weight, from what I understand the Fiberstream has one of the wimpiest frames built for a travel trailer. Frederick would be the one to ask, I think he's mentioned it several times. You definitely don't want frame problems!
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
Donna D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2012, 09:09 PM   #42
Member
 
Name: Heather
Trailer: 1971 Play Pac
Pennsylvania
Posts: 69
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Chet View Post
With our door sagging, we do lose some warm air (but after my fix I hope this goes away).
Hey Paul, You mentioned working on your door. I have discovered today that mine is not flush. Closes but the bottom corner on the unhinged side is a big gap. cant see any real reason for it. Just kinda sags there. Got any suggestions? I need a lock too, as there is no lock on the inside of the door. Cant say that its missing, just doesnt seem to have ever been one. Also need one window opener thing, lol! I have no idea what to call it. Is there a place to get replacements?

Ernie spent today working on the floor..............I worked on the other side on the house in the garden.
It was very noisy on his side of the house with a few choice words to boot. gonna have to weld 2-3 support brackets underneath for more support, as the new floor gives way to much! So frustrating!!

We are now thinking we are gonna have bedliner put on the bottom half including underneath and the trailer and the top half painted.


Happy Easter!!
__________________

__________________
imbabyh is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
play–pac


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Perris Pacer: Fixing interior walls Eve V. Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 7 09-24-2016 03:13 AM
Replacing the interior walls Lisasgirl Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 25 12-27-2011 11:43 PM
Experimenting with different materials for interior walls kevin61 Modifications, Alterations and Updates 26 06-29-2010 09:47 PM
Another approach to finishing interior walls Brian Scott Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 12 03-08-2008 06:02 PM
Interior Closet Walls Legacy Posts Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 5 08-09-2003 08:08 AM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:20 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.