Is 13' Scamp ground clearance reason not to buy?

[denny w]

Like the trailer's weight and size but very scared of its low ground clearance. Seems too low to me to purchase one. Therefore looking at 16' or other brands. Am I smart or crazy? Would backing up a slanted house driveway be a problem?

[Darwin Maring]

If the torsion axel is bad, the camper will set low. Check up in the wheel wells to see if the tire has rubbed up there.

[John Linck]

I lifted my Scamp 13 three inches with a $100 kit from Perfect Casita. Good for driveways in old neighborhoods. Easy project.

John

[noyes1630]

Hmmm. I Have never bottomed out with my Scamp and I have brought it to some iffy boondocking places. I do use a raised hitch on it though. I recently went down an over glorified cow path the other day... It turned around better than expected and again we never bottomed out.

I will say though, changing the tire is a bitch+... You got to find the sweet spot to get the tire off. I've been debating on making the well more open... With that being said it is easier to change the tire when the Scamp is on a lift or if you are able to jack it up and block it well without it tipping.

The lowness does work well with my mobility disability.... My stepping up days are for the most part done... So in that sense it is a positive issue.

[floyd]

You must be aware of the limitations of any device which you own.
Our Scamp13 is eleven years old and has been towed about 70,000 miles. We have pretty much stuck to paved roads except for campgrounds.
I have installed a small skid device to protect the bathroom plumbing when approaching particularly bad entrances and exits at gas stations and businesses. Where we live, we have those stupid curbs which are supposed to serve as both curb and driveway. I admit to taking it slow when crossing the curb but I suppose I would do the same with any trailer. Taking it a little slow over obvious obstacles only seems prudent.
We like the lower step at the door and not needing an additional step.
My trailer is in excellent shape and I am very satisfied with it.

While your concern has a modicum of merit, it is largely unjustified and certainly not a disqualifier since nearly 2/3 of all Scamps are 13s and are used extensively without incident.
We have been to hundreds of campgrounds with every sort of terrain often with dozens of other 13s present. Their owners always seem to be smiling enough to cause face cramps.

[Donna D.]

A 16' Scamp of the same vintage as the 13' Scamp may be even more difficult to back into an uphill space without dragging. Mainly because the 16' is longer in the back and will dig in quicker.

A fairly simple solution for either size are skid wheels that are bolted or welded close to the back on the frame. How much of an incline are you looking at?

[EllPea in CA]

We have a rolled curb and a slight incline in the driveway. And we have the casters in the back, and they do drag (and make an awful noise) as we pull in and out. But they do protect the back of the trailer, thank goodness. I'd like to look at adding spacers to lift it up a little.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by John Linck

I lifted my Scamp 13 three inches with a $100 kit from Perfect Casita. Good for driveways in old neighborhoods. Easy project.

John

Was your factory axle a bolt-on installation? And if so, is that how they do it now, or was that something you asked them to do? I believe mine is welded.

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by denny w

Like the trailer's weight and size but very scared of its low ground clearance. Seems too low to me to purchase one. Therefore looking at 16' or other brands. Am I smart or crazy? Would backing up a slanted house driveway be a problem?

Nope, you're not crazy Denny and I wouldn't let that stop me. A lot of folks here have said they don't have a problem with 13s. If you find that it's a problem it's a pretty easy fix especially with a trailer. Entering a driveway ect, either direction, doing it at a 45 degree angle if you can really helps. The slant itself isn't so much the problem with dragging. It's the angle change until the tires take over to lift it up. I would be more concerned with not having the tongue jack dragging if I hadn't run it up all the way. Not telling how I know that .

[John Linck]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

Was your factory axle a bolt-on installation? And if so, is that how they do it now, or was that something you asked them to do? I believe mine is welded.

My 2014 was bolt on from the factory. Seemed standard, at least I did not ask for it. I don't know how they do it now.

My lift does make it quite a step in and out. I sometimes carry a 4 inch stoop along.

John

[Jon in AZ]

Then that's another welcome change from Scamp. Anybody know what year they started doing the bolt-on axle installation?

[Eddie Longest]

Sometime around 2010.
Eddie

[Darral T.]

Denny,

I have a 2010 13' Scamp. At first I was a little leary of my Nissan Frontier (4cyl) because it caused the Scamp to set apx 1 deg high in the front. I've towed nearly 10K miles with it and that hasnt been an issue and I havent had a problem with it dragging. I have the front bath which is more critical.

You WILL need to watch where they have the rain run-offs separating the parking lots from the road.

At my son's place in Jackson MS, their house sits where the driveway climbs slightly from the road. Coming out of that drive- of course- is the lovely concrete run-off "gutters" or what ever they're technically called. I tried to come out at a slight angle but I heard a VERY LOUD scraping. AH OH! Well, I figured this was my first encounter with damage underneath. I got out to survey the damage and there wasnt any. There IS a large plate that hangs down in front of my drain/pump on my Scamp (placed there by the factory). I believe it scraped the road but wow was it loud. A warning signal?

Also FWIW, I keep my Scamp up on jack stands when it's home. Hopefully, this will prolong the prevention of "sag" caused by the rubber torsion axles by Dexter. I've heard pros/cons that it does/doesnt help. But it makes me think I'm doing the right thing anyway. Plus, it keeps the tires off the ground .

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

Then that's another welcome change from Scamp. Anybody know what year they started doing the bolt-on axle installation?

When I added the bike rack, rear bumper, and crossmember for the stabilizers, I welded them on for strength of the overall structure. Welding is cheaper stronger and in most cases easier than bolted applications.

Kent told me that they started doing bolt-on axles a "few" years ago. In balance I like the choice, but most buyers will never even know about it let alone benefit or lose from the choice.

[Jon in AZ]

Bottom line for the OP, then, is a newer one with a bolt-on axle would be a good choice. If the stock suspension height turns out to be problematic, raising it is easy and inexpensive.

Or get an older one that needs a new axle anyway.