Is it ok to mount a battery isolation (cut off) switch inside the trai

[Curtis F.]

Everytime I look for an outside location I have visions of a prankster turning the key and leaving me without power. In my Trillium the power comes into the fromt left corner of the trailer and connects to the converter and DC fuse panel. Immediately below the power panel is the propane detector that drains the battery if I don't keep electricity connected. There is room on the forward portion of the storage cabinet that is directly above the molded base for the gaucho bunk that the fuse panel and converter are in. I'll try to include picture of the area.



Curt

[Ed Harris]

That is exactly where I put my disconnect in both the 1300 and 4500.

You want it "In-line" basically with the power from the battery and I can not imagine why you would want it outside?

In my Fiberstream I have two battery banks and thus have two disconnect switches right near the banks.

[Brian B-P]

It makes perfect sense to me to put a cut-off switch inside, and that looks like a good place for it. Those switches are designed to mount through a hole in a panel, leaving the electrical connections safely enclosed on the opposite side from the handle, so they are easy to install safely.

This is yet another project which is still on my to-do list...

Lots of Class B motorhomes seem to have these cutoff switches mounted in an interior panel, sometimes behind a door (I assume just for appearance).

[Brian B-P]

I assume we're talking about Harbor Freight's ITEM 92688-2VGA. I wish the one I bought for a car years ago was that cheap!

[Curtis F.]

Thanks for responding. Yes that is the switch. The comment about apperarnce has me thinking about putting the switch inside the storage area. I would need a box around it to protect it from shifting cargo. I could mount it in the forward corner of the storage area. It would be a real pain doing the install, but would be nice to be out of the way. Will have to think awhile on materials and design of a cover for the switch. Anyone think it too simple and a bit tacky to just turn a cup or glass over it?

Thanks
Curt

[Victor Benz]

Curt

This is how I mounted mine.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/25692...052473095msBkeC

Victor

[Ed Harris]

This is the switch that I use.
I think they are $20.00 at Bass Pro or West Marine.

One nice feature is that they come with a rear cover.
The key is also removable and I think they look nice,but wire is my life too.

http://bluesea.com/category/1/productline/2

[Brian B-P]

Personally, I think either style looks fine. It's a trailer, not a palace. I favour function over ornamentation every time, and would not likely bother to hide it; the door idea was just an observation. The best thing about a door is that if it covers the whole set of controls for related equipment it can be closed to discourage kids and kid-like adults from messing with things.

The advantage of the Blue Sea product series to me would be management of two batteries (in an one/other/both/neither selection). At this point, with one battery, I would be using the simple switch like Curt and Victor.

I would put it in a vertical panel if possible; on a horizontal surface if some loose object (like a cup) were placed over it I would probably eventually try to slide the cup and smash it into the switch handle...

[Ed Harris]

The switch I use is only a single battery switch.
I guess the link was for the dual but since I can not see anymore I didn't notice it.

The only reason I would leave it in the open is that I might tend to forget to use it or not use it if there was too much other stuff in front of it....this tends to happen in my small spaces.

I put the switch body behind the panel and only the key is visable.

The other thing is that everyting I have ever bought from Harbor Freight just scares me.