Jack Nuts - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-28-2013, 12:43 PM   #1
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Jack Nuts

Have any of our members used Jack Nuts to replace the rivets that they need to remove? I am faced with drilling out all of the rivets to remove the water heater insert. It seems that using Jack Nuts when I reinstall would make any subsequent repairs so much easier.

Thoughts?
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Old 08-28-2013, 02:06 PM   #2
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What's a JACK NUT, any pictures of same.and how do they work?
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Old 08-28-2013, 02:13 PM   #3
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I was told about them this AM. It appears to be a pop rivet with a nut on the back side. You pop this thing in the hole and pop the rivet and you can now screw a threaded bolt into the nut in the hole.

Obviously this makes the rivet a bolt and makes things like my water heater removable by unscrewing a set of bolts instead of drilling out a bunch of rivets.

Google Jack Nuts and a bunch of pictures appear at the top.
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Old 08-28-2013, 02:36 PM   #4
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Thanks John
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Old 08-28-2013, 02:40 PM   #5
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I thought you were saying one of our moderators here on the forum was crazy!!!
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Old 08-28-2013, 03:53 PM   #6
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I thought you were saying one of our moderators here on the forum was crazy!!!
No, it is against the forum rules to say anything regarding moderation.

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Old 08-28-2013, 04:11 PM   #7
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Say what?

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Old 08-28-2013, 04:20 PM   #8
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Say what?

jack
Nuts!
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Old 08-28-2013, 04:22 PM   #9
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Jack nuts require large body hole diameter (7/16" dia. for 1/4" bolt). Require puller. Tendency to spin with corroded or cross threaded bolt and then you got fun. Outer flange sets proud of surface. I consider them light duty junk. The rivnuts for aircraft installation are must more reliable but we always pulled them in epoxy sealer anyway.

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Old 08-28-2013, 04:41 PM   #10
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Good info Jack.

I am looking at drilling something like 16 rivets to get at my busted water heater tank. Sigh.
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Old 08-28-2013, 05:02 PM   #11
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Since you will have to cut the PEX water lines for removal. Get a W/H by pass kit to see where to cut the lines and install the bypass kit when you put the H/W heater back in. What did you decide to do replace or repair?
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Old 08-28-2013, 05:06 PM   #12
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Jack nuts require large body hole diameter (7/16" dia. for 1/4" bolt). Require puller. Tendency to spin with corroded or cross threaded bolt and then you got fun. Outer flange sets proud of surface. I consider them light duty junk. The rivnuts for aircraft installation are must more reliable but we always pulled them in epoxy sealer anyway.

jack
I thought of rivnuts also, never messed with jack nuts. Even rivnuts are a royal pain in the butt, though. They would also stick out either on the outside of the trailer, or on the inside.

There's really no way they would work.
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Old 08-28-2013, 05:06 PM   #13
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Good info Jack.

I am looking at drilling something like 16 rivets to get at my busted water heater tank. Sigh.
Bummer and you just know one or two will be in a spot hard to get the drill onto straight...

Nice thing is rivets don't have a nut to vibrate loose so once done they stay on.
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Old 08-28-2013, 05:11 PM   #14
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There are smaller sizes which require correspondingly smaller holes for insertion.
Think the smallest is for #8 or 6 machine screw. Might work out for you. There are also a couple of designs of threaded plastic inserts which also might work as the load is spread over 16 locations. The ones I've seen the machine screw is run up to pull the wings out much as the puller does with a steel jacknut. Also the long steel expansion nuts with the pronged flange (also pulled by running in a machine screw) might work if you bore both a body hole and two smaller outbd holes to seat the prongs. One of our many google divers can find the precise identifier for these hdwre store itty bits if you have trouble.


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