Jackstand and stove problems

[gail todd]

I bought a 1999 17 foot widebody Burro In January, and finally made a shakedown trip a few weeks ago. Two big problems arose.
The jackstand now is slanting forward about 20 degrees. It may have happened when I disconnected it from my truck at the campsite. The stand itself is straight and functional, but the bolted mounting is now bulging upwards. How can I repair this without further damage, and prevent from happening again? The stand has no wheel on it.
There seems to be a draft inside the stove that draws the flames downwards, dramatically overheating the range top and surrounding counter. The flames return to normal when the range top is lifted. I see a fire hazard here-any suggestions?
Gail Todd

[Morgan]

I bought a 1999 17 foot widebody Burro In January, and finally made a shakedown trip a few weeks ago. Two big problems arose.
The jackstand now is slanting forward about 20 degrees. It may have happened when I disconnected it from my truck at the campsite. The stand itself is straight and functional, but the bolted mounting is now bulging upwards. How can I repair this without further damage, and prevent from happening again? The stand has no wheel on it.
There seems to be a draft inside the stove that draws the flames downwards, dramatically overheating the range top and surrounding counter. The flames return to normal when the range top is lifted. I see a fire hazard here-any suggestions?
Gail Todd

Gail,

You're right about the fire hazard. Unless the Burro uses a radically different stove than other RVs, the cover is meant to provide extra counter space when [b]NOT cooking. One should never have the burners lighted with the cover closed.

If the Burro is radically different, I'm sure other Burro owners will chime in and correct me.

If by jackstand, you mean the tongue jack, it would have been bent by pulling or pushing the trailer with the tow vehicle while the jack was supporting the weight of the trailer. If that is the case, you might try removing the jack (three bolts hold it to the tongue "A" frame) and see if you can reform the flange using a heavy hammer and anvil. Otherwise you'll have to replace it or take it to a welder and see if it can be repaired.

Good luck

[Brian B-P]

...There seems to be a draft inside the stove that draws the flames downwards, dramatically overheating the range top and surrounding counter. The flames return to normal when the range top is lifted. I see a fire hazard here-any suggestions?

I could use some clarification here: what do you mean by "range top"? On my Brown Stove Works unit (a range with four burners and oven), the top panel of the stove - not a cover but the actual top of the appliance with four holes the burners sit in - can be pivoted up for cleaning. Is that the "range top"?

[gail todd]

Thank you for the advice on the trailer jack.
I will clarify the stove problem: It is a 3 burner Atwood. There is no cover on it that you use as a countertop. I lifted up the top which surrounds the burners, as you do when cleaning any boiled over spills. The flame goes upward as it should only when the top is up. When I put it down, the flame immediately goes downwards. There seems to be a draft pulling the flames down into the stove. As soon as I have time, I will investigate the source of the draft.
Gail

[CD Smith]

... How can I repair this without further damage, and prevent from happening again? The stand has no wheel on it. ...

Gail, the way to prevent this from happening is make sure both RV wheels are chocked (both front and rear) before lowering the the tongue jack.

This happened to me once when setting up camp in the dark. I didn't realize the severity of the slope the Casita was setting on. As a result of this experience the very first thing I do is level the Casita with blocks and then chock both wheels. This insures that the Casita will not move when the hitch is raised with the tongue jack.

[Gina D.]

Gail, my stove does the same thing! Only on the very front burner, however. Weird.

The insulation on the side near the end of the counter is spotty, and since the fridge vent is riht there, I suspect there is indeed some down draft. I have been intending to stuff that corner with reflectix, as daylight shines in and gives the lovely orange glow at that spot and wakes me up in the morning (I sleep on the front bunk and leave the rear set p as a living space.)

I would check there and see if thats the problem. Do not use the wool type of insulation, as the fridge workings get warm back there.

Morgan, Burros have a sidewinder welded to the curb side. Not a center jack. Not sure why they did this, but I notice the Uhaul 17s do the same thing. I am not a structural engineer, nor did I stay at a Holiday in last nite, so I can't explain why this might be better, if it actually is.

Gail, I dropped my 17 by doing just what was suggested, I pulled forward with it down *Just an inch* to loosen the ball from the latch in the hitch and the key on the jack dislodged. It seemed fine for a bit, and then the trailer slowly did a nose dive as the jack collapsed. I was fortunate that it was a delayed reaction, and that my car was out of the way... and that my nieghbor has a big floor jack. The only damage was to my ego. Mine has a wheel, however, and I want to replace it with a pad just to prevent the rolling aspect, which is what ultmately caused the whole thing.

[Brian B-P]

Thanks, Gail, that's just the clarification I was looking for, and it sounds like Gina has the explanation. This doesn't happen on my stove, but the area under the top in mine is a well closed steel box, so there isn't really a place for a draft to come in and get controlled by the top.

Since the "bulging upward" description sounds like what commonly happens to a jack mounted in the centre of an A-frame, not a side-mount, I'm having a little trouble picturing the mount's current condition. Gail, could we see a photo?

I believe that the U-Haul design (either size) incorporates a side-mounted jack simply because it has a straight tongue; there's no A-frame, so the center-mount is not an option. I have no idea why Burro chose the side-mount. Why a straight tongue on the U-Haul? That's another whole discussion...

[pjanits]

My 81' Burro had the holes for a regular tougue jack already there even tho it had a side jack. I dumped the side jack and put in a toungue jack. I had to make a spacer about 3" high with figerglass resin soaked oak so it would fit properly.

It's been about 3 years now and it still looks good. The wheel is very nice if you have some one to hold the trailer from going down the driveway while you chock the wheels.

[gail todd]

Thanks, Gail, that's just the clarification I was looking for, and it sounds like Gina has the explanation. This doesn't happen on my [b]stove, but the area under the top in mine is a well closed steel box, so there isn't really a place for a draft to come in and get controlled by the top.

Since the "bulging upward" description sounds like what commonly happens to a [b]jack mounted in the centre of an A-frame, not a side-mount, I'm having a little trouble picturing the mount's current condition. Gail, could we see a photo?

I believe that the U-Haul design (either size) incorporates a side-mounted jack simply because it has a straight [b]tongue; there's no A-frame, so the center-mount is not an option. I have no idea why Burro chose the side-mount. Why a straight tongue on the U-Haul? That's another whole discussion...

Yes, Brian-The jack is mounted in the center of the A-Frame . I will attempt to remove the jack as soon as I get time. My computer skills are hit and miss, so a photo will be a challenge.
Gail Todd

[Roger H]

Gail, a couple of suggestions... try your stove with the trailer windows opened, and then closed. With the windows closed, turn your fantastic fan on, first to exhaust and then reverse it intake to suck air in and pressurize the cabin. Notice if there's any difference in the four circumstances in what the flame does.

Your refrigerator compartment should be sealed so that there are no air leaks between the grills outside and the inside air. The refrigerator vents were designed to allow fresh air to the cooling unit, but more importantly to vent exhaust gas from the lp burner on the fridge, and there should be no air exchange between the fridge cabinet vents and the interior of the cabin. My '87 Burro widebody used flat fiberglass panels and duct tape to create the sealed refrigerator "cabinet". After fifteen years, the duct tape had peeled off, and it was pretty drafty under my sink and stove. After I replaced the fridge, and used better tape, it sealed up nicely.

My guess is that the refrigerator cabinet isn't well sealed, and somehow the cabin is venting through the stove top into the refrigerator cabinet or some other opening behind the stove. It would take an odd set of circumstances for that to happen, but it's possible.

Roger

[gail todd]

Gail, a couple of suggestions... try your stove with the trailer windows opened, and then closed. With the windows closed, turn your fantastic fan on, first to exhaust and then reverse it intake to suck air in and pressurize the cabin. Notice if there's any difference in the four circumstances in what the flame does.

Your refrigerator compartment should be sealed so that there are no air leaks between the grills outside and the inside air. The refrigerator vents were designed to allow fresh air to the cooling unit, but more importantly to vent exhaust gas from the lp burner on the fridge, and there should be no air exchange between the fridge cabinet vents and the interior of the cabin. My '87 Burro widebody used flat fiberglass panels and duct tape to create the sealed refrigerator "cabinet". After fifteen years, the duct tape had peeled off, and it was pretty drafty under my sink and stove. After I replaced the fridge, and used better tape, it sealed up nicely.

My guess is that the refrigerator cabinet isn't well sealed, and somehow the cabin is venting through the stove top into the refrigerator cabinet or some other opening behind the stove. It would take an odd set of circumstances for that to happen, but it's possible.

Roger

Thanks for your input, Roger. A friend and I looked inside the stove, and found a dollar sized hole in the side by the rear right burner. It appears purposely put in. Also noted a small fan wired in between the back of the refrigerator and the outside vent. It started running when I started up the fridge, and ran constantly until it stopped dead a few days into the camping trip. The serious draft problem started then. I wonder if a previous owner jury-rigged the fan to counteract the draft? I don't know what other function of the fan would be, but that seems too much of a Rube Goldberg solution to the draft. I will definitely seal off the compartment.
Gail

[Gina D.]

Gail,

I experimented with the problem this morning.

I was thinking along the lines of Roger and tried opening windows, vents, fans etc to find the right combo.

I found nothing that worked.. until I closed the front door.

Roger, mine has HUGE openings back there. The panel that is there is simply placed in and blocks the streetside front cubby, but is not sealed in any way and does not appear as it it ever has been. I actualy use this as access to small items from the outside.

Gail, the fan is no doubt there to aid in keeping the fridge cool by drawing hot air away from the compartment. I doubt he had drafts in mind with it.

[Roger H]

Hmmm... sounds interesting. Seal the fridge cabinet off from the cabin and I'll bet that'll cure all your ills!

Gail, the fan is just there to exhaust the hot air generated by your cooling unit and to make it more efficient. I doubt it was there to counteract the draft, but it may have had that effect.

Roger