Kitchen Faucet and Pump for U-Haul CT - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-17-2007, 10:57 AM   #1
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We're installing a new wood counter-top, acrylic sink, faucet, and single-burner Princess propane cook-top into our U-Haul camper trailer.

A question: Is it possible to rig the 2 handle Phoenix faucet so the COLD handle will deliver city water and the HOT handle will be coupled with an electric pump to deliver water from the water tank?

If so, what are your recommendations for the choice of electric pump (i.e. Nautilus 1 GPM, WhisperKing 2 GPM, Shurflo 2.8 GPM)? We'd like to keep the new counter-top as open as possible, without the addition of a second pump/faucet system for delivery of water from the water tank.

Thanks for any advice or recommendations!

Steve and Jeanne


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Original w/ Lowboy Faucet . . . . New Counter and Faucet
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Old 06-17-2007, 12:46 PM   #2
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If you take a look at my pictures on Webshots you will see that I did exactly what you want to do. The left tap brings water from the on board tank via a Surflo diaphragm pump and the right tap supplies from the city water hook up. You must use a pressure reducer on the city water. They are cheap and just screw onto your hose.

If you use a diaphragm pump it can be mounted any where and does not need to be primed where the other types need to be mounted lower then the tank outlet to keep the prime. That can be a problem to find a spot to mount it. The diaphragm pumps are a little more expensive but in my opinion are worth it. It is also a good idea to mount a small red LED or a flip-flop switch with a lite in the pump circuit to let you know when you have left the pump power switch on. I have heard stories of people who have left the pump on when they are on the road and the vibration has opened the tap enough so that the pump came on and filled the sink to over flowing and flooded all over the floor.

I have disassembled some of those hand pumps used in RV's and I must say I have never seen such poor quality and bad design in years. But I am finding that with a lot of the RV products.

To go to this type of system, you of coarse need to have an on board 12v power supply which is a good idea as your trailer can be stand alone without having to be hooked up to your tow vehicle. There are several threads here regarding those type of setups.

In addition to adding the tap set, pump and battery, I also added a In-Sink-Erator Instant Hot Water dispenser. It works great for washing dishes, making a quick coffee etc. when you are hooked up to 100v shore power. It produces approx. 1 1/2 imp.gals. of hot water per hour. The unit I installed was their smallest one. There was just enough room between the fridge, sink and furnace for the under counter tank.

So far I have been very pleased with the results and have encountered no major problems with this setup. If you do a search of the threads there are numerous other options that members have come up with that work well also.
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Old 06-17-2007, 12:53 PM   #3
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A few months ago I installed a high rise home kitchen faucet in my Scamp. The intention was to install a gas tankless heater also but I sold the trailer. I used the least expensive demand pump that was availabe at Camping World. I can't remember the gpm but it was not very high and it worked just fine.
I see no reason why your plan for water hook up will not work very well. Your trailer water supply is limited. The higher gpm pumps are for coaches or larger trailers with multipe water needs.

John
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Old 06-17-2007, 04:49 PM   #4
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Con and John - Thanks for the quick replies. I'm pleased to learn that the 2-handle faucet / no manual pump system has worked out well for you. Sound's like I'll follow the same path with the sink installation in my '85 U-haul. I'll just have to remember to switch the power on and off.

I used a 12 VDC illuminated auto rocker switch to supply power to the water pump in my '84 Casita, and I coupled it with a very low flow electric (1 GPM) pump and the Lowboy 3-way faucet. The Lowboy faucet has an on-demand switch which temporarily turns on the pump to let the water flow. The illuminated 12 VDC rocker switch should also work well in the U-Haul.

I also like the idea of adding the instant hot water dispenser - sure to be a popular and handy convenience in the tiny kitchen!

Con - great slideshow of all your mods! Very impressive work!!!

Thanks again for your advice!

Steve and Jeanne


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Old 06-17-2007, 06:03 PM   #5
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Jeanne and Steve, One side note.
I have discussed this setup before and some one thought it would be a problem if your battery went dead. How do you get water from your tank if you don't have a hand pump?
If you noticed from my pictures, I ran an drain line extension to the outside of the body with a SS ball valve. Simple, No power, I just walk around the side, open the valve and fill a jug of water.
My question is why have a cheapy hand pump that may or may not work when you want it to? Most of the ones I have seen never work anyhow, not unless they are brand new.

I think your acrylic sink, tap set and stove is going to look really nice in there.
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Old 06-17-2007, 07:04 PM   #6
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I have to do same thing in my Trill asp.Those CHEAP hand pumps are a JOKE.
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Old 06-17-2007, 08:48 PM   #7
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Yes! Aren't they Chester!
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Old 06-17-2007, 10:25 PM   #8
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I agree that a lot of the RV supplies are poor quality. Whenever I have the option, I try to get parts from a local marine supply store where I can find good quality SS fittings and rugged 12 VDC fixtures.

I also like the idea of the extension pipe for the water tank drain. My current drain is located underneath the trailer so I have to reach underneath to open it. With the extension, no need to get muddy!

Steve
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