Laminate flooring trim

[Robin H]

I am at the final stages before the big reveal of my trailer - I am having a little stress about being finished for the Praire Egg Gathering on the 20th. I have installed laminate flooring and am planning on putting a corner bead all the way around to finish off the edges. Just wondering how I would attach it. Do I screw it down somehow or is there a good glue that will work for me.

Thanks,
Robin

[Kevin Woods]

I am at the final stages before the big reveal of my trailer - I am having a little stress about being finished for the Praire Egg Gathering on the 20th. I have installed laminate flooring and am planning on putting a corner bead all the way around to finish off the edges. Just wondering how I would attach it. Do I screw it down somehow or is there a good glue that will work for me.

Thanks,
Robin

Just in case you are not set on using what you have... I would recommend using the flexible vinyl "base trim" you find at Home Depot. This is usually a commercial use product found in offices, etc. you can get it in several colours. If you go with the stuff about 3" wide it has adhesive preapplied on the back.
K

[Robin H]

Just in case you are not set on using what you have... I would recommend using the flexible vinyl "base trim" you find at Home Depot. This is usually a commercial use product found in offices, etc. you can get it in several colours. If you go with the stuff about 3" wide it has adhesive preapplied on the back.
K

Thanks Kevin - what I am picturing by your description is a flat flexible trim (almost rubbery??) - I do have a few cutting errors (my first time with a jig saw) that I need to cover up. I was thinking of the plastic faux wood looking trim (like round corner trim) that would hide my errors (not that there are that many - I am fairly proud of my first cutting experience!). Hoping the plastic will be lighter and more flexible.


Robin

[J Martin]

Thanks Kevin - what I am picturing by your description is a flat flexible trim (almost rubbery??) - I do have a few cutting errors (my first time with a jig saw) that I need to cover up. I was thinking of the plastic faux wood looking trim (like round corner trim) that would hide my errors (not that there are that many - I am fairly proud of my first cutting experience!). Hoping the plastic will be lighter and more flexible.
Robin

Hey Robin, try quarter round trim and apply it with PL2000 construction adhesive.

Good luck,
Jeff

[jrnutpaul]

They make a trim called "base shoe" that I would also apply with construction adhesive and a few brads. I found it in the flooring section of Home Depot. It's 3/4h X 1/2w and I turned it so the 3/4 was along the floor.

Paul

[Herb P]

They make a trim called "base shoe" that I would also apply with construction adhesive and a few brads. I found it in the flooring section of Home Depot. It's 3/4h X 1/2w and I turned it so the 3/4 was along the floor.

I used some oak corner trim which is 3/4"x3/4" and is about quarter round with 2 extended edges. I used a brad nailer to suck it into the floor but I was nervous about using brads that were too long because I didn't want to puncture any of my tanks... So in places where I had tanks, I used shorter brads but I think they were a little too short because some of my trim pieces are coming loose...

[Kevin Woods]

Thanks Kevin - what I am picturing by your description is a flat flexible trim (almost rubbery??) - I do have a few cutting errors (my first time with a jig saw) that I need to cover up. I was thinking of the plastic faux wood looking trim (like round corner trim) that would hide my errors (not that there are that many - I am fairly proud of my first cutting experience!). Hoping the plastic will be lighter and more flexible.
Robin

The rubbery stuff is what I am talking about. It should have a "lip" along the bottem edge that would extend out about 1/2" from the wall. Sounds like alot of folks use wood trim... but on my Trill. there is no such thing as a "square" edge so that's the beauty of something flexible.
K

[Bill MacDermod]

Robin, the laminate floor has to be able to shift some for expansion and contraction so nailing it down might give you some problems. I did my Casita years ago and was able to nail horizontilly into the 2X2's that held the cabinets in but I had the luxury of a nailing gun. The construction glue is the best way to go if you don't have a nailing gun but don't glue it on the bottom, just the side up against the cabinets.

[Robin H]

I am not sure if it was this site or another one but one member said he even left his laminate outside in the rain and nothing happened. My laminate is installed now and some areas are more snug than others. I had heard this should not be a problem but in some areas, there is no room for movement. One member (maybe the same one, can't remember) I believe had cut it snug so no trim was even needed. Of course this is not the case for me...I do need trim. But again, in some spots there is no movement. And we put on the aluminum trim back on in the entrance and that sucker is tight! It originally was rivetted on but I wouldn't even have to attach it if I didn't want to as it is going absolutely no where!

Robin

[Kenny&Jackie]

The trim that my trailer came with is quarter round wood and its glued to the cabinets and not the floor.

[Pat R]

Robin: I just pulled up the factory carpet on my 87 Scamp and put Pergo down. All I had to do was run a bead of white caulking on the edge. Looks great because the fiberglass is white (duh) and I have a great looking flexible finish. Couldn't be happier. Peace

[Robin H]

Robin: I just pulled up the factory carpet on my 87 Scamp and put Pergo down. All I had to do was run a bead of white caulking on the edge. Looks great because the fiberglass is white (duh) and I have a great looking flexible finish. Couldn't be happier. Peace

That would ultimately the easiest to do especially when I have become pretty darn good with the caulking gun - but the jigsaw...I was not so good at! Needs trim~Although I am pretty proud of my floor and the trim will just hide those little errors and make it look perfect!

Robin

[Pat R]

That would ultimately the easiest to do especially when I have become pretty darn good with the caulking gun - but the jigsaw...I was not so good at! Needs trim~Although I am pretty proud of my floor and the trim will just hide those little errors and make it look perfect!

Robin

Sounds like you have it under control my friend. Would like to see photos when you get it done. Kind of fun to do new stuff isn't it. Thats what has kept me going all these years... Peace

[Suz]

I used the fake wood stuff. I used construction adhesive to secure it and a few strips of double stick mirror tape to hold it in place while the adhesive dried. It's been on 5 years this summer. We get really hot in the summer and it can get pretty cold in the winter. Still hanging on after all this time.

NOTE: I used a counter sealer (wood tone) to fill the gaps at the rounded corners.

[Derek Johnson]

I used wood tone caulk and it looked good enough that I left it without trim. You should caulk anyway before you put down trim just to seal the edges in case of a big spill. See what you think after caulking, then add trim if desired. Most of my caulked edges aren't visible under the counters anyhow.

Derek