Late model U.S. Trillium propane lines - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-23-2018, 10:02 PM   #1
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Late model U.S. Trillium propane lines

I am installing a propane system on a 2014 Trillium 4500 that started out as just a trailer and shell with interior mouldings. I havenít decided on how I am going to route lines and am curious how it was done in the factory. If anyone has a newer model trailer or has looked around one and can tell me if:
1) black iron pipe was used as the trunk line?
2) the trunk line was mounted to the frame, bottom of the shell or if it was ran inside the shell?
3) if trunk line is outside the shell, is it routed through or under the crossmembers?

I appreciate any info that can be provided!
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Old 04-24-2018, 04:09 AM   #2
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Eric, I've never seen black pipe used for LP in any RV. Not that it hasn't been done but....a tad over kill, copper is normal.
If you're installing new lines, the main line should run under the TT and any Tee's to interior end units would be best done on the underside also. Don't think there's a hardfast location for them. I'd install it for whatever is the easiest safe run for your layout.
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Old 04-24-2018, 04:59 AM   #3
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My 2010 was made in California by Mattman specialty. They made one of a kind emergency vehicles with Trilliums as a side line. The regulator is mounted on the front wall of the trailer. A copper line goes from there into the trailer through the floor of the front driver side storage compartment. There it connects to a series of in house made rubber hoses with a brass Tee for each appliance. Unless you are familiar with the method I'd stick to copper outside the trailer as Dave suggests.
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Old 04-24-2018, 06:24 AM   #4
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Uhaul used black iron pipe for the main line under the trailer. The early built trailers were all copper, (ours is first year of production) and were supposed to be refitted with iron. Ours never got done. There was a "T" fitting underneath, with one copper line to the stove, another to the furnace, no rubber hoses inside the trailer and no connections other than at the stove or furnace. Any connections need to be accessible for inspection, and only use flare fittings.
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Old 04-24-2018, 07:06 AM   #5
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black pipe

well black pipe for commercial users and natural gas users but it wont matter which you use I have a feeling they use flare type gas line because its so simple.

I would use flare its easy and cheap plus its easy to route. put your tank outside with your regulator of course and work back. our scamper has a line from the tank to a fitting on the outside so you can remove the lines then the gas line is routed to the inside. our outside line is camco flexible gas line.

everything 3/8 flare gas line you can also bend it some in places.


good luck

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Old 04-24-2018, 07:47 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Borrego Dave View Post
Eric, I've never seen black pipe used for LP in any RV. Not that it hasn't been done but....a tad over kill, copper is normal.
Escapes are abnormal then. I've got a run of black pipe under mine, and also for the LP quick connect run. Copper branching off of that to the appliances.
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Old 04-24-2018, 08:10 AM   #7
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eric is right copper is the primary gas plumbing route all the manufactures take for propane. that's not to say any company that goes black line is wrong its not a requirement just something they have done in the past and continue to do.


my entire house is plumbed with copper lines for propane gas natural gas a different animal someone said there is something in natural gas that copper doesn't like thus the use of black pipe!


all of this is in the relm of plumbing codes also


bob


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Old 04-24-2018, 08:58 PM   #8
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Its pretty simple really. Just perform all work in accordance with NFPA 1192 using skilled, knowledgeable, and experienced craftsmen.

Our Casita had soft copper with tees for each appliance located under the trailer and along the frame. The tubing was fastened to the steel frame with plastic-insulated zinc-plated steel clamps to isolate the copper line from the steel frame and prevent galvanic corrosion. There was a specific rubber-coated flexible connector used at the A frame, and the regulator was mounted in an approved manner, etc.

Other piping materials are acceptable under the code too. There are very specific requirements associated with all connections and the materials to be used at specific locations and for various purposes. The lines and connections are to be located in protected locations. It really requires a solid understanding and the ability to perform the work properly. (Meaning: I ain't got it!)
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Old 04-24-2018, 09:30 PM   #9
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Thanks for the responses everyone. Raz, you confirmed what I suspected. I am not particularly fond of any method over another as compromises will be made no matter which one I choose.
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Old 04-25-2018, 01:12 AM   #10
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Quote:
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Escapes are abnormal then. I've got a run of black pipe under mine, and also for the LP quick connect run. Copper branching off of that to the appliances.
Not abnormal at all it seems Robert. But that's why I said I've never seen it. Leaves the door open for a build I've never seen after being around RVs most of my life . The OP was asking about running new LP lines. Using the same material for the run would be a lot easier than dealing with transition couplings from one type of piping material to another. Not to mention a possible corrosion of dissimilar metals at joints, just sayin'. Might not make a difference in the big picture though as there are many 40 year old TTs running around and I've never read of any of them having an LP main line problem. Guess it all boils down to what you're comfortable working with.
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Old 04-25-2018, 10:53 AM   #11
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Just a thought. I would imagine copper would be much easier than cutting and threading black pipe.

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Old 04-26-2018, 09:30 PM   #12
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Someone has posted an older edition of the code (link below). I can't speak to what the newer editions say, but this can provide a flavor of the issues involved.

http://hamyarenergy.com/static/fckim...20-%202005.pdf

The good thing is that products, such as regulators and their connecting pieces, are manufactured to conform to code requirements. However, a good understanding is still required in order to select and assemble all the right parts in the correct manner. Not having an existing system to serve as a guideline for replacement, something that was presumably an approved layout and arrangement, is a disadvantage.

Speaking for myself, I'd proceed cautiously. Dealing with propane is one of those areas where what you don't know can hurt you and/or others. Think BLEVE; Boiling Liquid Expanding Vapor Explosion (propane boils at less than room temperature).

On edit: It looks like you can get access to the 2018 edition of the code on the NFPA site. I suspect that this access will function like many public-access code sites where you can look and read on your screen but not copy or print; I didn't sign up to find out the particulars.

https://www.nfpa.org/codes-and-stand...tail?code=1192
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Old 05-02-2018, 03:09 PM   #13
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my trillium 5500 has a main 3/8 black iron run down the curb side with tees in appropriate placements for the appliances. from the tee there is soft copper run to each appliance
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Old 05-02-2018, 06:39 PM   #14
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Just remember they don't allow copper / brass compression ring fittings. You have to use flair fittings or directly threaded fittings. Also all connections have to have access to the fittings. you can't bury a coupling behind a wall or limited access. If you can't get a wrench on the fitting you cant hide it there. Restrictions on who can do the work is much stricter in Canada.

Read the code and follow it the lives you save may be your own. Make sure you leak check your installation.
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