Leaking Electrical Cord Port! - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-21-2015, 03:20 PM   #1
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Leaking Electrical Cord Port!

The electrical cord port on my 1978 Scamp 13 is leaking. Leaking very badly I'm afraid!

I can see no evidence that there was any putty tape used when the cord port was installed so many years ago. It also appears that the design of the port allows water to enter. i'd hate to see the amount of water that would enter if the electrical cord was in use during a heavy rain storm!

Has anyone had, and cured this leaking problem? if so, did you install a new cord port...putty...or what?

Since I'm leaning towards a non-electrical, and non-LP trailer, I'm tempted to seal the cord port hole. However, some future owner might not like that!

Thanks,

Bill
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Old 04-21-2015, 03:29 PM   #2
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An aluminum plate over the hole will not bother a future prospective buyer. This is how I installed a new power inlet.
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Old 04-21-2015, 04:01 PM   #3
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An aluminum plate over the hole will not bother a future prospective buyer. This is how I installed a new power inlet.
Dave, that sure beats the mess of duct tape that I now have over the inlet!

Did you use putty tape, and are those screws, or bolts and nuts holding the plate?

Thanks for the idea!

Bill
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Old 04-21-2015, 04:25 PM   #4
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We installed a totally sealed port. A couple of reasons, 1. it eliminated pulling in and storing all the cable under the seat. 2. It eliminated the ants and other critters that would walk in on the cable and 3, it made it water tight.

You can find the following at lesser cost if you shop around. Always cost more at a marine supply store.

MARINCO 30A Nonmetallic Boat Inlet | West Marine
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Old 04-21-2015, 04:29 PM   #5
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Yes, I used putty, and screws, washers, locks, and nuts, in stainless steel. The actual power inlet was not too expensive either. The place I bought it now sells it for $40.95, OK not cheep.

Mine is only 15 A and uses any regular extension cord, with one receptacle on the end. Like what you would use for a lawnmower.
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Old 04-21-2015, 07:24 PM   #6
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Thanks for the idea's. If I can find a small piece of aluminum plate, I believe that is what I will use to seal the electrical cord opening. I might also do the same for the water tank fill opening....as a PO took the water tank out!

Of course, bending the plate to fit the curve of the shell at the water fill might be a tad bit difficult.

Bill
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Old 04-21-2015, 07:44 PM   #7
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Thanks for the idea's. If I can find a small piece of aluminum plate, I believe that is what I will use to seal the electrical cord opening. I might also do the same for the water tank fill opening....as a PO took the water tank out!

Of course, bending the plate to fit the curve of the shell at the water fill might be a tad bit difficult.

Bill
Bill, what you need to do to match the compound curve is to "raise" the aluminum plate. Take an old pillow case, or use some sort of heavy cloth sack, I use the ones that Basmati rice comes in. Fill it part way with dry sand, not tap the aluminum plate with a hammer to stretch the center of the plate and form a sort of dome. Take your time, and you should be able to match the curvature of the trailer almost perfectly.
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Old 04-22-2015, 07:45 AM   #8
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Thanks Dennis for the tip!

I remember seeing some old craftsman doing that years ago in a documentary or something like that. I believe he was making a part for an old auto.

Dave, what thickness of aluminum plate did you use?

Thanks,

Bill
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Old 04-22-2015, 09:51 AM   #9
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I frequently repurpose unwanted holes by covering them with a simple 4" RV battery vent. They take 4 screws and are designed to conform to a curved surface and don't look like a repair job was done when installed. You can back it up with thin metal if a complete seal is desired. About $3 at any RV supply source.
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Old 04-22-2015, 10:08 AM   #10
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I used a flat plate, and made up the difference with putty. But Trilliums are a bit more boxy then Scamps.

On edit: The plate was 1/8" thick.
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Old 04-22-2015, 10:57 AM   #11
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We installed a totally sealed port. A couple of reasons, 1. it eliminated pulling in and storing all the cable under the seat. 2. It eliminated the ants and other critters that would walk in on the cable and 3, it made it water tight.
I have an attached cable. One mod I plan to make this season is to enclose the cable inside the trailer in a waterproof bag so that no critters can get into the trailer yet maintaining the benefits of the attached cable, like it's always attached so you can't misplace it and you can use only the length you need to pull out. The bag will keep the dirt and water and bugs contained so they can't get into the trailer.
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Old 04-22-2015, 11:44 AM   #12
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I frequently repurpose unwanted holes by covering them with a simple 4" RV battery vent. They take 4 screws and are designed to conform to a curved surface and don't look like a repair job was done when installed. You can back it up with thin metal if a complete seal is desired. About $3 at any RV supply source.
Thanks Bob for the information. Something like that might be the answer.

Bill
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Old 04-22-2015, 07:21 PM   #13
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Thanks Dennis for the tip!

I remember seeing some old craftsman doing that years ago in a documentary or something like that. I believe he was making a part for an old auto.

Dave, what thickness of aluminum plate did you use?

Thanks,

Bill
That is the method that my son used to build motorcycle fenders and fuel tanks before he got his English Wheel and Planishing Hammer. Aluminum is actually fun to work with. It is sold and raises nicely. After a while it will work harden and crack. To prevent, you heat it up and quench the stock in cold water! This anneals the metal, making it very soft again.
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Old 05-09-2015, 02:33 PM   #14
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Just a note to tell everyone how I "fixed" my leaking electrical cable port.

I was not able to find a RV Vent, and I'm too cheap to pay what metal shops wanted for a small 1/8" aluminum plate.

So I removed the rivets holding the old port in place and pulled it out. I then cleaned it up, and applied a lot of epoxy adhesive along the opening parts, plate. and port, etc., and let it cure overnight.

With new butyl tape applied I riveted it back into it's spot.

No leaks in the port area during a 7-inch rain storm two nights ago, and no leaks during a 2-3/4-inch rain last night!

When the time comes to install a new electrical port,it will be easy to do,

Now, if only the the other leaks were as easy to find and fix...

Bill
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