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11-08-2015, 09:23 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Sharon
Trailer: Chez Nous - a 2011 Scamp 16'
Texas
Posts: 277
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leaking window help
hey gang. I'm in oregon where it continues to rain a LOT. Discovered a small leak in the drivers side back window on my scamp 16. Putting a chunk of paper towel in the inside narrow track the window sits in absorbs the water for 8 plus hours. This is not a catastrophic leak (yet anyway) so I'd like to put a bead of some kind of dappish product around the outside of the window to see if this stops the leak for now. What NON silicone product would work best for this? Thanks.
Sharon
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11-08-2015, 09:41 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
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Check the weep holes on the outside to be sure they are clean so any water against the glass drains away. There may be covers over them but I doubt it. I use weed wacker string to clean them out
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11-08-2015, 09:45 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Sharon
Trailer: Chez Nous - a 2011 Scamp 16'
Texas
Posts: 277
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OOOOH, great idea. Didn't think of that. Supposedly rain will stop a few hours tomorrow morning and I will check then, cuz I sure can't see WHERE the water is coming from on the inside. Thx for that, Bob.
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11-09-2015, 10:28 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Paul
Trailer: '04 Scamp 19D, TV:Tacoma 3.5L 4door, SB
Colorado
Posts: 1,845
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If the channels and weep holes are really filled up with dirt, you may want to remove the sliding pane to clean them. We had a very recent thread on that subject and I posted how to do it. Here it is: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post556385
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11-09-2015, 11:06 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Kathleen (Kai: ai as in wait)
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16 1973 "Peanut"
Greater Seattle Metropolitan Area, Washington
Posts: 2,566
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Been searching FGRV for what product to use on the amerigo windows that are leaking...they're like Trillium windows in that they tip out at the bottom, but are one solid piece of plexiglass, not the little louvers. IF the trim edges need caulked, would automotive windshield material work? (Don't think we've found any weep holes, though Paul has been looking.)
And--for my info, what's wrong with silicone? (Not that we're planning to use it...) Just haven't been able to find the threads about it.
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11-09-2015, 11:28 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai in Seattle
And--for my info, what's wrong with silicone? (Not that we're planning to use it...) Just haven't been able to find the threads about it.
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The info is hiding in plain sight...
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...bad-49621.html
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11-09-2015, 12:26 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Kathleen (Kai: ai as in wait)
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16 1973 "Peanut"
Greater Seattle Metropolitan Area, Washington
Posts: 2,566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon2
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Thanks--like most internet issues, one has to know the exact magic phrase. Be only a few words off, and no dice.
Close only counts in hand grenades and horseshoes.
GREAT help, LOTS of info, of course our windows were sealed with silicone by the PO, which explains the leaks. NOW we have to check the little roof vent and the fantastic fan.
thanks again!
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11-09-2015, 08:58 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Name: Nettz
Trailer: UHaul
North Carolina
Posts: 15
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Don't use silicone. It will leak in no time again...and it is horrible to remove. If you need a bead, use butyl caulking ( or gutter caulking).
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11-09-2015, 09:25 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
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Silicone! OMG I hate that crap on the exterior of any all-molded-towable. THIS is NOT my trailer but check out all the CRAP someone applied to a window on a U-Haul trying to stop the leaks. I scooped this picture from a U-Haul Facebook page that I'm a member. ALL that silicone and the window STILL leaks. Now the owner has a huge problem removing that Devil's Bane.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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11-10-2015, 07:39 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai in Seattle
Thanks--like most internet issues, one has to know the exact magic phrase. Be only a few words off, and no dice...
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Kai, the built-in search function is pretty useless (like you say, you have to hit the exact phrase), but the Google site search is much more sophisticated. It's only available on the website, not on the app. Go to the blue bar under your log-in information, "Search," and go to the bottom of the drop-down menu "Site Search/Google."
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11-10-2015, 02:20 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Kathleen (Kai: ai as in wait)
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16 1973 "Peanut"
Greater Seattle Metropolitan Area, Washington
Posts: 2,566
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WOW, thanks! Yes, it works great! Now if I could only remember the latest thing I wanted to find out about on FGRV! Oh, well, it'll come back sooner or later. Thank you again! BIG improvement!
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11-12-2015, 02:12 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Gardnpondr
Trailer: 1985 BigFoot G
Mississippi
Posts: 143
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I was going to ask about pulling the windows out of my 85 camper and replacing the seal around all of them. I bought butyl rubber seal stuff. I want to do every one of them. I've watched a video online about how to do it but wondering if there is any secrets to getting it done right? Figured some of you have done it. Since it's getting cooler now I want to get started working on ours again and need to get these windows done!!!
Do we also need to run a bead of pro flex I believe it's called around them once we get them back in? Or just do the top edge part?
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11-12-2015, 03:05 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
Posts: 3,738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gardnpondr
I was going to ask about pulling the windows out of my 85 camper and replacing the seal around all of them. I bought butyl rubber seal stuff. I want to do every one of them. I've watched a video online about how to do it but wondering if there is any secrets to getting it done right? Figured some of you have done it. Since it's getting cooler now I want to get started working on ours again and need to get these windows done!!!
Do we also need to run a bead of pro flex I believe it's called around them once we get them back in? Or just do the top edge part?
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Clean the surfaces up good for the new butyl, no Pro Flex is needed anywhere. The butyl is a bit easier to use if it's warm. Once you set the window in place tighten the screws a bit at a time like you would torque an engine head to let the butyl have time ooze. There is no PSI to go by, stop when it seems nice and tight. Pop rivets are the same. With my gun it seems to take three grips per rivet before it pops. I use half pulls between rivet rounds to let the butyl do its thing. BTW, if you're installing anything of plastic with rivets like vents and such, running the first down to popping by itself is asking for a broken/cracked item .
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11-13-2015, 04:54 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Cathy
Trailer: 1973 Love Bug '13
Florida
Posts: 406
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Sharon, if it is a leak between the gasket and the plexiglass, you may try this. We have had great success using this product.
Captain trolleys creeping crack sealant. Cant take credit for this information. Someone on this forum put us on to it.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/CAPTAIN-TOLL...A2EMKVSX8TAEXI
Sent from my iPad using Fiberglass RV
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11-13-2015, 05:03 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Gardnpondr
Trailer: 1985 BigFoot G
Mississippi
Posts: 143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Borrego Dave
Clean the surfaces up good for the new butyl, no Pro Flex is needed anywhere. The butyl is a bit easier to use if it's warm. Once you set the window in place tighten the screws a bit at a time like you would torque an engine head to let the butyl have time ooze. There is no PSI to go by, stop when it seems nice and tight. Pop rivets are the same. With my gun it seems to take three grips per rivet before it pops. I use half pulls between rivet rounds to let the butyl do its thing. BTW, if you're installing anything of plastic with rivets like vents and such, running the first down to popping by itself is asking for a broken/cracked item .
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Thank you Dave!!!! No rivets, only screws so I'm in luck there. :-)
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11-13-2015, 05:08 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Gardnpondr
Trailer: 1985 BigFoot G
Mississippi
Posts: 143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
Silicone! OMG I hate that crap on the exterior of any all-molded-towable. THIS is NOT my trailer but check out all the CRAP someone applied to a window on a U-Haul trying to stop the leaks. I scooped this picture from a U-Haul Facebook page that I'm a member. ALL that silicone and the window STILL leaks. Now the owner has a huge problem removing that Devil's Bane.
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OMGosh what a mess there! I HATE THAT STUFF on the campers! Don't understand WHY someone would put it on them! You should SEE the top of ours where all those vents are over the bathroom. THAT should be a MEGA fun project getting it off there to replace the vents. As cheap as the vents are someone would do this! I mean it looks like it is over an inch thick in spots! I don't do heights but figureing I might be able to borrow a friends scaffling sp? so I can work on getting that mess off and not have to stand on a ladder to do it since I know it's going to take some doing!
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11-13-2015, 06:05 PM
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#17
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Moderator
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Michigan
Posts: 3,744
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When I riveted my Scamp windows in after replacing the butyl caulk I found Dave's suggestion of working around the edge from one side to the other then top and bottom to give better results by far. I also left the rivets "half tight" for awhile to let the butyl squeeze out, then gave them all another squeeze, waited a bit the finished them.
I would use the same approach with screws. Half tight for all, then 3/4 tight for all, then final tight for all. Waiting for awhile between each round of tightening.
I think giving the butyl time to conform before tightening some more yielded a better seal, noticed I had some squeezed out all the way around doing it that way. Just tightening not nearly as solid a line around the edge of oozing butyl seal.
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11-13-2015, 11:30 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Gardnpondr
Trailer: 1985 BigFoot G
Mississippi
Posts: 143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDat
When I riveted my Scamp windows in after replacing the butyl caulk I found Dave's suggestion of working around the edge from one side to the other then top and bottom to give better results by far. I also left the rivets "half tight" for awhile to let the butyl squeeze out, then gave them all another squeeze, waited a bit the finished them.
I would use the same approach with screws. Half tight for all, then 3/4 tight for all, then final tight for all. Waiting for awhile between each round of tightening.
I think giving the butyl time to conform before tightening some more yielded a better seal, noticed I had some squeezed out all the way around doing it that way. Just tightening not nearly as solid a line around the edge of oozing butyl seal.
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Mine has screws but that will probably even be good to do with screws to. Will keep that in mind and thank all you guys for your help because once we do this I don't want to have to go back and redo them again anytime soon.
ALSO when I go to unscrewing those screws I am praying EVERY THING on the inside walls stays put! since it IS old I worry what we're going to get INTO in there. Just praying it stays put!!!
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11-14-2015, 06:06 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Kathleen (Kai: ai as in wait)
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16 1973 "Peanut"
Greater Seattle Metropolitan Area, Washington
Posts: 2,566
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Gardnpondr and all--yes, am worrying too about the wood bracing falling loose inside; ours is gutted but so far we haven't pulled the wood away from the walls, and it looks loose. Maybe we'll use the construction glue we got and glue the wood to the fiberglass and let it harden before we try putting the screws back in? Of course, right now, with flood warnings all around us (we're in the highlands) from incessant rain (not that I'm complaining--we need the rain!) we're not doing much on the trailer lately. We DID find a nice thick mattress for half price at IKEA, though, and have it waiting on top of our twin guest bed until the day comes we can slide it on into the trailer. Someday.
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11-14-2015, 09:26 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ
Kai, the built-in search function is pretty useless (like you say, you have to hit the exact phrase), but the Google site search is much more sophisticated. It's only available on the website, not on the app. Go to the blue bar under your log-in information, "Search," and go to the bottom of the drop-down menu "Site Search/Google."
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You should be able to search the site for key words using google on its own. For example if you want to " find these words ", go to google and in the search box enter the following:
find these words site:fiberglassrv.com
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