Leaks... do we need to replace window seal? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-08-2016, 01:01 PM   #15
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Name: Carrie
Trailer: Scamp 13
Massachusetts
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Ooh, I didn't even realize there was a slider option. May very well consider that.
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Old 05-08-2016, 01:43 PM   #16
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Name: Darla
Trailer: U Haul CT 13 - 1984
Ohio
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Thumbs up Window Repair and Leak Issues

Hello,
I am new to this blog and only signing in to give my information. I have a U Haul CT 13, 1984. I started with the side windows. I replaced everything and even some of the glass that had been replaced with plexiglass. I then pulled the back window and have it ready to go back in. Today, I pulled the door window because someone had put it in backwards. I was hesitant to post because all of my labor wasn't paying off. My windows leaked horribly. Today I found that you have to cut a hole in the flocked channel at the same spot as the drain hole. Once I did this, I did a test in the sink and no water came through to the other side. I will keep everyone posted as I proceed now that I am sure I figured out the problem. I will shortly post all companies, product numbers, and photos.
Darla
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Old 05-08-2016, 01:52 PM   #17
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
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Darla; all that info is in the document center here, and the files section of the Uhaul Facebook group. But I'm curious as to what weatherstrip you used to install the side windows as that is a somewhat debatable issue
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Old 05-08-2016, 03:22 PM   #18
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Name: Darla
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Mary and Bob,
I don't do Facebook so I would have not known that.

I used a product from a company called Perfect Fit-McDonald, Inc.

AS-1488 and then to zip it I used As-937-A

I worked great and no leaks.

Have you replace all of your seals, flocked channels, and bug seal?
Darla
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Old 05-08-2016, 07:27 PM   #19
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
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Darla, I used AS1456 and 789 for the weatherstrip. Replaced my rear window and one side window with Scamp units and the other side window with a new Uhaul window I found at a surplus company. No more of them available
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Old 05-09-2016, 10:05 AM   #20
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Name: Carrie
Trailer: Scamp 13
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Called Scamp. The rear slider is still $60 to ship (they wooden crate it). We're going to go for it! We're going to pass on replacing the front window right now because even though it isn't pretty, there aren't any leaks there.

Follow up questions:
-Any recommendations on how best to get all that silicone off?
-Is butyl tape the only other thing we need? Any installation tips?

Looking forward to my breezy sleeping!
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Old 05-09-2016, 10:35 AM   #21
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Name: Bill&Laura
Trailer: 1988 Bigfoot Fiver
Kentucky
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Originally Posted by CarrieR View Post
Called Scamp. It is still $60 to ship (they wooden crate it). We're going to go for it! We're going to pass on replacing the front window right now because even though it isn't pretty, there aren't any leaks there.

Follow up questions:
-Any recommendations on how best to get all that silicone off?
-Is butyl tape the only other thing we need? Any installation tips?

Looking forward to my breezy sleeping!
The slider went in without issues on our 1991 Scamp and the distinction that the parts people at Scamp made was the exterior window "ledge" or lip in the fiberglass that allows a flat window to be installed.

First, I pulled the old flat plexiglass window out. The seal was in two pieces and once I had it started I simply pulled the plastic window panel out and the seal followed.

Next, I used a single edged razor blade and carefully removed all the silicone that I could scrape off. Then I wiped down the dirty mess with a cleaner. I used Purple Power because we love that stuff. The area was really clean and I was ready for the install but I waited about ten minutes allowing the sunshine to completely dry the area.

Now, dry fit the window to ensure everything fits together the way they're supposed to fit. I used the wooden crate that the window came in (they really pack that thing in tight because I had to use a chisel to cut the wood panel off the crate because the glued the wood panel to wood crate before they screwed it together!) as a table to work off of applying a single strip of butyl tape to the window frame and I trimmed any excess over-hang of butyl from the frame. I let the window sit in the sun while I inspected the window opening to ensure it was clean and dry. The few seconds that I was busy at the window opening allowed the sun to warm the butyl to maximum stickiness.

Ensuring the I had the top of the window "up" and the drain vents down, I tipped the window into the opening and gently pressed the window into the opening. (This is the tricky part if you're working alone because the window can fall out and will break because it's glass.) With the butyl tape holding the window in place, I quietly snuck inside to put the retaining ring into place being extremely careful not to push the window out into the driveway. I installed the first screw, top center, very carefully to "catch" the window with the frame so the window wouldn't fall out. Then I double checked my placement before continuing to ensure the window is centered in the hole.

Assured of placement, I worked my way around the window installing the mounting screws on opposite sides of the window frame to pull the retaining frame to the exterior window snug. Once I had all the screws in place, I tightened each of them, alternating across the window frame to achieve a smooth seal all around the window.

When I went outside to check there was the smallest bead of butyl tape being squeezed from the edge of the exterior window frame. I used a razor blade to remove any "large" amounts of butyl, of which there was almost none, and the job was done. Easy peasy...well, it was a little nerve wracking while the window was simply "stuck" in the hole and hanging on by the butyl, but overall, it went very smoothly. No leaks yet and we've been in some pretty heavy rains.

Hope this helps...good luck.
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Old 05-09-2016, 10:46 AM   #22
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Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
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Easy peasy...well, it was a little nerve wracking while the window was simply "stuck" in the hole and hanging on by the butyl,
This is a case of Duct Tape to the rescue. Long strips as much as you need to know the window will stay in place. Will come off easily, with no residue, if you don't leave it on for days in the heat.
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Old 05-09-2016, 10:56 AM   #23
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Name: Carrie
Trailer: Scamp 13
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Originally Posted by TheWanderers View Post
With the butyl tape holding the window in place, I quietly snuck inside to put the retaining ring into place being extremely careful not to push the window out into the driveway. I installed the first screw, top center, very carefully to "catch" the window with the frame so the window wouldn't fall out. Then I double checked my placement before continuing to ensure the window is centered in the hole.

Assured of placement, I worked my way around the window installing the mounting screws on opposite sides of the window frame to pull the retaining frame to the exterior window snug. Once I had all the screws in place, I tightened each of them, alternating across the window frame to achieve a smooth seal all around the window.
Thanks- that's really helpful! I assume the retaining ring is something that comes with the window?
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Old 05-09-2016, 12:09 PM   #24
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Yes, it does. Two people make this job a lot easier- one outside and one inside. Tighten the retaining ring gradually from all sides so the butyl is compressed evenly.

You're gonna love it!
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Old 05-09-2016, 12:35 PM   #25
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
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Only thing I would add to Bill's description of the install is to retighten the screws a day or two later. It is amazing how well they pack the windows, screwed AND glued box !!
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