Leaky Tail lights. Anybody else? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-28-2014, 08:59 AM   #15
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Norm,

Trying to understand your last post. You know how youve been writing me steps as a test? Could you write this as a test for me?

No corrision or anything like that on bulbs or contacts. Clean as a whistle.


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Old 08-28-2014, 08:59 AM   #16
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Window weep test

The rear window effectively has three weep holes. One small one in the rubber and two larger ones in the metal.

I slid my rear window open and slid the screen open. I checked my window by pouring water into the rear window track. Nothing came out the weep hole.

I dried it out with a paper towel. I took a flat bladed screw driver and moved all the accumulated dirt to one end and cleaned it out with, a soon black, paper towel. I repeated this process until the track was clean. The weep hole still did not work.

The reason it did not work is the track has a plastic insert on top of the metal track. This piece of plastic in my trailer effectively seals the weep hole.

I pried the plastic up a little with a flat bladed screw driver so I could see light thru the weep hole, poured in water and it shot out the weep hole.

The plastic's purpose is to make a plastic/metal rather than metal/metal contact area to improve window sliding. My intention, since the weep hole is near the end, is to cut a little of the plastic track off.
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Old 08-28-2014, 09:11 AM   #17
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System Pressure test.

Leak Test.

If your water system has a leak and you leave the water pump in the on state, the pump will activate when the system has leaked fluid because the pressure will drop.

To perform this test takes time.

1. Turn on the sink faucet with the pump on.

2. Close the faucet and the pump will stop.

3. Shut off the pump.

4. Come back in 4-8 hours. Turn the pump's switch on.

5. If the pump does not start that means the system did not leak.

My system easily goes overnight without the pump turning on indicating no leakage.

This is a test you can run without drying under the dinette.
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Old 08-28-2014, 09:15 AM   #18
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I guess the pressure is on for me because fall is upon us and i cannot winterize till i accurately diagnose cause. Very little time and my life has multiple sources of stress and time drainers, school unending work being only one, but a big one!


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Old 08-28-2014, 09:22 AM   #19
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Drying under dinette.

The two dinettes seats are easy to remove. There are two sets of screws to remove. The first set of four are along the top edge. Remove the cushions and remove these screws. Use a good fitting screw driver.

There are also two (?) screws along the front base. These are a little harder to access. With these screws are out the dinette should lift out providing access for drying and inspection.
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Old 08-28-2014, 09:39 AM   #20
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Temporary solution

Wendy,

If you believe that this is a leaky water system and don't have time there's an alternative solution to allow you to postpone action until you have more time.

1. Drain as much water as possible out of your water system by turning on the hot water and cold water faucets.

2. Pour some pink RV antifreeze into your system using your water tank.

3. Pump the antifreeze through your system starting with the hot water side. (This assumes you did not drain your hot water tank and do not have a hot water tank by pass.)

4. Repeat this for the cold water side.

5. After everything's pumped pink, run the pump and drain as much of the pink fluid as possible. The water left behind will contain anti freeze and protect you from winter's woe.

6. I would when done drain the gray tank into a bucket or two.

If anyone thinks this is wrong, please say so. Wendy does seem free time pressured.
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Old 08-28-2014, 09:42 AM   #21
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Forgive me Norm, but at the risk of sounding dumb, I have to be myself and ask another question.

Should i do this with one to two gallons in the fresh water tank? Right now theres a tad of water left in the lines, but mostly just spitting noises.

Also how ling should i run water out of sink tap during test or doesnt it matter?




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Old 08-28-2014, 09:49 AM   #22
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My hot water tank is empty right now. Bit every time i put a coue of gallons of water in fresh water tank and then open isolation valve so water goes into tank, then turn on hot water spigot, nothing comes out. Am i supposed to leave isolation valve open when running hot water? I dont understand this stuff. Maybe could you call me Norm? I feel so inept.


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Old 08-28-2014, 09:58 AM   #23
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Concerning the taillight, I would not seal it all the way around. Do the top and sides, and maybe a little under but that would be all. My old Scamp tail lights had actual gaps you could see along the top. I sealed a semi-circle around the top of each one but left the bottoms alone. I stood out there in the rain the other day and interestingly due to the aluminum belly band diverting the rain very little water actually got to the top of the light. It is important so let me say it again, do not seal the bottom of your light!
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Old 08-28-2014, 10:43 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by CampyTime View Post
Yes, Donna, the lens does fit right over the housing. I will definitely do that as well.

Carol, it ran through my mind briefly to take the black housing off the trailer and put butyl over the wiring harness hole on the FG itself, but of course, I didn't follow through. All I did was put butyl on the outside, with the housing on the trailer, making a nice patch over the hole where the wires enter. Now...behind the housing! That makes sense. Is this what you mean, just putting it over the hole behind the housing, or putting butyl all around the rim/edge of the housing?

I had forgotten you had the newer style Scamp taillights so as usual Donna is right regarding the lens fitting right over the housing.

I took the light housing right off & put the butyl all the way around the edge of backside of the housing and reinstall and then trimmed away the extra butyl that seeped out when the light was screwed back on. Might sound like over kill to some but at least you then know the light is well sealed. Before you do that though and as you indicated you washed the trailer you could always take a hose to it and try and recreate the situation again.

The problem is that with the foil behind the rat fur the water will seep down onto the floor of the trailer and often not taking the direct route down - just takes the path of least resistance (i.e. areas were the foil isn't glued solid to the wall). And yes in my experience with a window leak a couple of years ago the water will/can have a bit of pink colouring to it from the glue scamp uses to attach the foil to the walls.

Re the hot water heater - when running on city water connection you just need to open up the by pass valve that you have opened. If you are filling it via the trailers water tank you need to turn the water pump on (which I am assuming you have on if your getting cold water) in order for it to fill the tank first - as soon as you turn the pump on you should hear it run on for a few minutes while it sucks the water from the main water tank into the hot water tank. You are going to need to put at least 7 gallons of water into the main water tank though - the hot water tank needs to be full in order to work correct as it works on pressure. . If its not filling correctly or nothing comes out it may just have an air lock in the hot water tank . Thats common if the tank has been drained completely. In that case while the tank is filling open up the pressure relief valve (on the outside in the hot water tank hatch) and release the air lock - leave the valve open when filling the hot water tank until the water starts to come out of the valve.

Edit to add: If you run out of water in the main water holding tank the water in the hot water tank will not come out due to the lack of pressure - the water in the hot water tank is just trapped in the hot water tank and not usable (unless you drain it out though the outside) until you add more water to the main water tank to pressurize the system again.
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Old 08-28-2014, 10:56 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timber Wolf View Post
Concerning the taillight, I would not seal it all the way around. Do the top and sides, and maybe a little under but that would be all. My old Scamp tail lights had actual gaps you could see along the top. I sealed a semi-circle around the top of each one but left the bottoms alone. I stood out there in the rain the other day and interestingly due to the aluminum belly band diverting the rain very little water actually got to the top of the light. It is important so let me say it again, do not seal the bottom of your light!
Wendy, Tim is correct leaving a small gap in the sealing at the bottom on any electrical fixtures is a good idea - should there be a leak the water then has someplace to go and not trapped behind.
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Old 08-28-2014, 05:00 PM   #26
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Did the best I could. There was corrosion in bulbs and in receptacle. Sanded off some with small wire brush, sprayed and wiped down with elec contact cleaner and lubed with dialectric. Put butyl around lens and pushed on. Not all butyl spooged out the way i would have liked, but done now. Put butyl in hole again where wires enter. And in screw holes that hold black mounting bracket on.

Now on to Norms test and my beer. Im mentally drained and hope this test proves no leaky pex or out comes the dinette.

Meanwhile, 12 hours of school work and lawn mowing awaits. I need a hug.


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Old 08-28-2014, 05:02 PM   #27
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Btw, only put butyl on top and down sides of lens. Skipped bottom altogether. If this works I'll skip the hole drilling as light doesn't wanna come off very easily with butyl on and I can see me breaking it.


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Old 08-28-2014, 07:15 PM   #28
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I need a hug.
Here you go!
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