Leveling a 13? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-20-2012, 07:23 PM   #15
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You are correct, Floyd, I am a babe in the woods (and non-woodsy terrain also) when it comes to leveling trailers. The Scamp setup video was very revealing in that I had no idea you could actually jack the stabilizers into solid contact with ground, 2X, other. I wondered about the rusty round bar in one of the lockers. I couldn't find it but the handle of a pair of pump pliers did as well. Apparently, the Burro shares it's stabilizer pattern with the Scamp. (Your BAL stabiliizers obviously have a different modus operandi). Could there be another Scamp owner aboard who did not know this? How bout it, Byron?

jack
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:20 PM   #16
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I use the plastic blocks to level - if I dont need them under the tires they come in very handy to use under the back jacks which often do not make it to the ground on my Scamp.
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:40 PM   #17
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Thanks, Floyd. That makes sense, and the videos are great.
Bill
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjquigs View Post
I was thinking of just using a piece of 1/2" steel bar but I don't know what it would lever against.
Follow Floyd's suggestions.
Find a tire iron from a local wreckers that fits your trailer tires and use the other end for your stabilizer jacks.
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:46 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
Follow Floyd's suggestions.
Find a tire iron from a local wreckers that fits your trailer tires and use the other end for your stabilizer jacks.
Drill rod comes in 3ft pieces at your local hardware store and can be bought in the right diameter for a couple of bucks. It is hard enough that it won't bend when used on the jacks and it fits well enough to prevent damage to the jacks, like bending or ovaling the holes.
The double use is an attractive idea,if you find the right one, but straight jack handles are getting more rare and most are too large and some are too soft.
While many things can get the job done, the drill rod/heater hose combo makes a nice handle, easy to find and inexpensive. Also if you taper the edge of the tip on the buisiness end of the rod it will fit better and not scratch.
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:13 AM   #20
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Scamp Stabilizer Bar

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Originally Posted by wjquigs View Post
How do you deploy the stabilizers on a Scamp? There are a series of holes about 1/2" diameter and it looks like you could use some kind of tool to lever the inner leg down but I don't think my Scamp (bought used) came with this tool. I was thinking of just using a piece of 1/2" steel bar but I don't know what it would lever against. Or does everyone just do what I'm doing, which is push them down by hand and then crank up the tongue?
Thanks.
Bill
Scamp sells the 1/2" rod for stabilizer Cost about $2.00 I just bought a spare rod this spring from Scamp
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:43 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
Scamp sells the 1/2" rod for stabilizer Cost about $2.00 I just bought a spare rod this spring from Scamp
Could hardly beat that! If shipping's not too high!
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:51 AM   #22
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Stabilizers tip also the BAL

I love the BAL! It stores perfectly on the floor in the bathroom, too.
And as for putting out the rear stabilizers, I get the trailer level and then lower the nose by 5 turns of the jack handle, then put down the rear stabilizers and bring the nose back up. It's usually perfect. Do the process in reverse to put them up. Easy Peasey.
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:19 PM   #23
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I love the BAL wheel leveler! I was camping this past weekend and used it. A fella in a monster Montana 5th wheel (dual axle, three slides) came over and wanted to know about it. Asked if he could use it on his 5th wheel... ahhhh, no.
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Old 05-30-2012, 06:12 AM   #24
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Doh!

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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
Mild steel is really not the best choice, go buy a piece of drill rod,cut it in half, slip a piece of heater hose tightly over one end of each piece for a grip and you have two new handles which won't bend, for the price of a drill rod.
As for how they work...Look here...

http://www.scamptrailers.com/Portals...osingASpot.swf
I had no idea the rear stabilizers could be jacked. When I was on site, I used my Trailer dolly as a fulcrum and hooked the ball under the rear bumber to lift the Scamp a bit. I was not able to lift it enough, due to the height of the trailer dolly. Off to HD to find a suitable piece of rod.
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Old 05-30-2012, 08:04 PM   #25
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I never use my stabilizer rod. Fortunately it's short enough to store with out being in the way.

I simply level the trailer side to side and then drop the tongue about a dozen cranks down or so. I head to the back of the trailer and drop the stabilizer jacks down to the ground. If they don't reach I simply put enough 2 x 6's under them so they touch and go back to the tongue and crack it back up.

Viola' simple pie, solid and stable as can be.
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Old 05-30-2012, 08:55 PM   #26
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The Scamp video shows what I consider the worst possible method of leveling your trailer. There's too much risk of putting frame in a twisted configuration. Also you could put more weight on the stabilizers than they're rated for.
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Old 05-30-2012, 09:09 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
The Scamp video shows what I consider the worst possible method of leveling your trailer. There's too much risk of putting frame in a twisted configuration. Also you could put more weight on the stabilizers than they're rated for.
Picking it up with one hand and stacking take-along solid concrete blocks under the bumper with the other could be worse???
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Old 05-30-2012, 09:32 PM   #28
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I just a cupple of sissor jacks thay work fine and there cheep at the auto wreckers
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