O my first weekend with my Scamp, and I am not in a very level site. Makes cooking moreover an act fit for the old Ed Sullivan show. How does one level these small campers. Front to back is done with the tongue jack, but what do you use to level side to side? I tried lifting one side by prying the rear bumper and lowering the built in leveler, but I could only lift it a couple of inches.
O my first weekend with my Scamp, and I am not in a very level site. Makes cooking moreover an act fit for the old Ed Sullivan show. How does one level these small campers. Front to back is done with the tongue jack, but what do you use to level side to side? I tried lifting one side by prying the rear bumper and lowering the built in leveler, but I could only lift it a couple of inches.
We always start our leveling process with lego levelers on the low side. Most sites require no more than two. Just stack them as needed and back-up onto them.
BAL also makes a wheel leveler for small trailers, It works well but is a bit bulky
I use one of these.
Process of leveling....
Find the spot you want, place the trailer where you want it. (I have bubble levels mounting on the front and side with double sticky tape. I made sure the trailer was level using a center level on the bottom of fridge before installing the outside levels.)
I put the above BAL wheel leveler under the low side wheel. Jack it up to level. You could use boards, leveling "legos", etc. I find the BAL the easiest to use.
Then I unhook the tow and move it out of the way.
Lower the tongue jack so the front of the trailer is about 1/2 bubble low.
Deploy the rear stabilizers making sure the foot of each is in contact with ground.
Then using the tongue jack bring the front to level.
This places a bit of pressure on the stabilizers to keep the trailer from rocking.
Light the fridge and pull out the lawn chair. Time to enjoy a cool beverage.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
We always start our leveling process with lego levelers on the low side. Most sites require no more than two. Just stack them as needed and back-up onto them.
BAL also makes a wheel leveler for small trailers, It works well but is a bit bulky
Ha! You assume I can back up. I have yet to master that skill. LOL
Hi, Gary. We have those blocks that Floyd has, and you need more blocks than you think when you see their directions! But they are lighter and easier to clean than wood.
there's an old thread on here where somebody asked about the best 'value' people felt they'd spend their money on, for accessories. multiple people mentioned the BAL tire leveler (Floyd attached a pic and Byron described his) was in their top couple choices of one of the best things they'd bought.
After reading this, I decided to buy one... leveling is now a 2 min task and as easy as Byron explained.
I use one of these.
Process of leveling....
Find the spot you want, place the trailer where you want it. (I have bubble levels mounting on the front and side with double sticky tape. I made sure the trailer was level using a center level on the bottom of fridge before installing the outside levels.)
I put the above BAL wheel leveler under the low side wheel. Jack it up to level. You could use boards, leveling "legos", etc. I find the BAL the easiest to use.
Then I unhook the tow and move it out of the way.
Lower the tongue jack so the front of the trailer is about 1/2 bubble low.
Deploy the rear stabilizers making sure the foot of each is in contact with ground.
Then using the tongue jack bring the front to level.
This places a bit of pressure on the stabilizers to keep the trailer from rocking.
Light the fridge and pull out the lawn chair. Time to enjoy a cool beverage.
there's an old thread on here where somebody asked about the best 'value' people felt they'd spend their money on, for accessories. multiple people mentioned the BAL tire leveler (Floyd attached a pic and Byron described his) was in their top couple choices of one of the best things they'd bought.
After reading this, I decided to buy one... leveling is now a 2 min task and as easy as Byron explained.
I have BAL stabiliers, which I think was money well spent. I never have owned a BAL leveler.
Both are fine products, but I personally haven't found a use for the latter.
I prefer the BAL leveller. The only thing you need to know is which wheel is on the downslope side. Using the blocks probably requires a builder's level or skills in guesstimation which I don't care to acquire.
I use the "Legos". They also have a an add-on set of wheel chocks that will integrate with the blocks. If it needs more fine thing side to side, I use the stabilizers to correct it. Here's a pic that shows the blocks and the chock being used at a campsite:
__________________
-Jesse
SOLD! - 1984 Scamp 13 in Maryland.
I prefer the BAL leveller. The only thing you need to know is which wheel is on the downslope side. Using the blocks probably requires a builder's level or skills in guesstimation which I don't care to acquire.
jack
C'mon, JACK, if that cute little baby can do it... you can.
How do you deploy the stabilizers on a Scamp? There are a series of holes about 1/2" diameter and it looks like you could use some kind of tool to lever the inner leg down but I don't think my Scamp (bought used) came with this tool. I was thinking of just using a piece of 1/2" steel bar but I don't know what it would lever against. Or does everyone just do what I'm doing, which is push them down by hand and then crank up the tongue?
Thanks.
Bill
How do you deploy the stabilizers on a Scamp? There are a series of holes about 1/2" diameter and it looks like you could use some kind of tool to lever the inner leg down but I don't think my Scamp (bought used) came with this tool. I was thinking of just using a piece of 1/2" steel bar but I don't know what it would lever against. Or does everyone just do what I'm doing, which is push them down by hand and then crank up the tongue?
Thanks.
Bill
Mild steel is really not the best choice, go buy a piece of drill rod,cut it in half, slip a piece of heater hose tightly over one end of each piece for a grip and you have two new handles which won't bend, for the price of a drill rod.
As for how they work...Look here...
You are correct, Floyd, I am a babe in the woods (and non-woodsy terrain also) when it comes to leveling trailers. The Scamp setup video was very revealing in that I had no idea you could actually jack the stabilizers into solid contact with ground, 2X, other. I wondered about the rusty round bar in one of the lockers. I couldn't find it but the handle of a pair of pump pliers did as well. Apparently, the Burro shares it's stabilizer pattern with the Scamp. (Your BAL stabiliizers obviously have a different modus operandi). Could there be another Scamp owner aboard who did not know this? How bout it, Byron?
I use the plastic blocks to level - if I dont need them under the tires they come in very handy to use under the back jacks which often do not make it to the ground on my Scamp.
Follow Floyd's suggestions.
Find a tire iron from a local wreckers that fits your trailer tires and use the other end for your stabilizer jacks.
Drill rod comes in 3ft pieces at your local hardware store and can be bought in the right diameter for a couple of bucks. It is hard enough that it won't bend when used on the jacks and it fits well enough to prevent damage to the jacks, like bending or ovaling the holes.
The double use is an attractive idea,if you find the right one, but straight jack handles are getting more rare and most are too large and some are too soft.
While many things can get the job done, the drill rod/heater hose combo makes a nice handle, easy to find and inexpensive. Also if you taper the edge of the tip on the buisiness end of the rod it will fit better and not scratch.
How do you deploy the stabilizers on a Scamp? There are a series of holes about 1/2" diameter and it looks like you could use some kind of tool to lever the inner leg down but I don't think my Scamp (bought used) came with this tool. I was thinking of just using a piece of 1/2" steel bar but I don't know what it would lever against. Or does everyone just do what I'm doing, which is push them down by hand and then crank up the tongue?
Thanks.
Bill
Scamp sells the 1/2" rod for stabilizer Cost about $2.00 I just bought a spare rod this spring from Scamp
Scamp 1013
Eggy-Sue (the pull-it surprize)
The Mountain Egg AKA 2006 13' Scamp
1972 Boler American
1992 Scamp Side bath
Linear Mode
