O my first weekend with my Scamp, and I am not in a very level site. Makes cooking moreover an act fit for the old Ed Sullivan show. How does one level these small campers. Front to back is done with the tongue jack, but what do you use to level side to side? I tried lifting one side by prying the rear bumper and lowering the built in leveler, but I could only lift it a couple of inches.
O my first weekend with my Scamp, and I am not in a very level site. Makes cooking moreover an act fit for the old Ed Sullivan show. How does one level these small campers. Front to back is done with the tongue jack, but what do you use to level side to side? I tried lifting one side by prying the rear bumper and lowering the built in leveler, but I could only lift it a couple of inches.
We always start our leveling process with lego levelers on the low side. Most sites require no more than two. Just stack them as needed and back-up onto them.
BAL also makes a wheel leveler for small trailers, It works well but is a bit bulky
I use one of these.
Process of leveling....
Find the spot you want, place the trailer where you want it. (I have bubble levels mounting on the front and side with double sticky tape. I made sure the trailer was level using a center level on the bottom of fridge before installing the outside levels.)
I put the above BAL wheel leveler under the low side wheel. Jack it up to level. You could use boards, leveling "legos", etc. I find the BAL the easiest to use.
Then I unhook the tow and move it out of the way.
Lower the tongue jack so the front of the trailer is about 1/2 bubble low.
Deploy the rear stabilizers making sure the foot of each is in contact with ground.
Then using the tongue jack bring the front to level.
This places a bit of pressure on the stabilizers to keep the trailer from rocking.
Light the fridge and pull out the lawn chair. Time to enjoy a cool beverage.
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Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
We always start our leveling process with lego levelers on the low side. Most sites require no more than two. Just stack them as needed and back-up onto them.
BAL also makes a wheel leveler for small trailers, It works well but is a bit bulky
Ha! You assume I can back up. I have yet to master that skill. LOL
Hi, Gary. We have those blocks that Floyd has, and you need more blocks than you think when you see their directions! But they are lighter and easier to clean than wood.
there's an old thread on here where somebody asked about the best 'value' people felt they'd spend their money on, for accessories. multiple people mentioned the BAL tire leveler (Floyd attached a pic and Byron described his) was in their top couple choices of one of the best things they'd bought.
After reading this, I decided to buy one... leveling is now a 2 min task and as easy as Byron explained.
I use one of these.
Process of leveling....
Find the spot you want, place the trailer where you want it. (I have bubble levels mounting on the front and side with double sticky tape. I made sure the trailer was level using a center level on the bottom of fridge before installing the outside levels.)
I put the above BAL wheel leveler under the low side wheel. Jack it up to level. You could use boards, leveling "legos", etc. I find the BAL the easiest to use.
Then I unhook the tow and move it out of the way.
Lower the tongue jack so the front of the trailer is about 1/2 bubble low.
Deploy the rear stabilizers making sure the foot of each is in contact with ground.
Then using the tongue jack bring the front to level.
This places a bit of pressure on the stabilizers to keep the trailer from rocking.
Light the fridge and pull out the lawn chair. Time to enjoy a cool beverage.
there's an old thread on here where somebody asked about the best 'value' people felt they'd spend their money on, for accessories. multiple people mentioned the BAL tire leveler (Floyd attached a pic and Byron described his) was in their top couple choices of one of the best things they'd bought.
After reading this, I decided to buy one... leveling is now a 2 min task and as easy as Byron explained.
I have BAL stabiliers, which I think was money well spent. I never have owned a BAL leveler.
Both are fine products, but I personally haven't found a use for the latter.
I prefer the BAL leveller. The only thing you need to know is which wheel is on the downslope side. Using the blocks probably requires a builder's level or skills in guesstimation which I don't care to acquire.
I use the "Legos". They also have a an add-on set of wheel chocks that will integrate with the blocks. If it needs more fine thing side to side, I use the stabilizers to correct it. Here's a pic that shows the blocks and the chock being used at a campsite:
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-Jesse
FOR SALE - 1984 Scamp 13 in Maryland.
I prefer the BAL leveller. The only thing you need to know is which wheel is on the downslope side. Using the blocks probably requires a builder's level or skills in guesstimation which I don't care to acquire.
jack
C'mon, JACK, if that cute little baby can do it... you can.
How do you deploy the stabilizers on a Scamp? There are a series of holes about 1/2" diameter and it looks like you could use some kind of tool to lever the inner leg down but I don't think my Scamp (bought used) came with this tool. I was thinking of just using a piece of 1/2" steel bar but I don't know what it would lever against. Or does everyone just do what I'm doing, which is push them down by hand and then crank up the tongue?
Thanks.
Bill
How do you deploy the stabilizers on a Scamp? There are a series of holes about 1/2" diameter and it looks like you could use some kind of tool to lever the inner leg down but I don't think my Scamp (bought used) came with this tool. I was thinking of just using a piece of 1/2" steel bar but I don't know what it would lever against. Or does everyone just do what I'm doing, which is push them down by hand and then crank up the tongue?
Thanks.
Bill
Mild steel is really not the best choice, go buy a piece of drill rod,cut it in half, slip a piece of heater hose tightly over one end of each piece for a grip and you have two new handles which won't bend, for the price of a drill rod.
As for how they work...Look here...