Leveling a Scamp When Camping - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-08-2014, 06:54 PM   #15
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Name: Wendy Lee
Trailer: Scamp 13' Standard
New York
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Hi Everybody,
WOW! What a response! It never ceases to amaze me...what I learn from this forum. Ya know what I do? I copy/past the information into a document which must be about 10 pages long now. If I could only stop adding to it, maybe I'd print it out to read! Ha Ha!
I have one set of Lynx Levelers I kept from my pop up camper, and some pieces of scrap wood, but I don't really think they're thick enough, as I mentioned in my first post. But at least now, I get how to level the trailer, and it is different from a pop up (but Lord knows, I was probably doing that wrong somehow
Bless you all for your elegant chiming in...gosh how I love all the talk and banter! It's fun!

Fondly,
Wendy
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Old 01-10-2014, 07:50 AM   #16
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Name: Debbie
Trailer: Scamp
Iowa
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Leveling

I love all the helpful people on this site! I have a friend that suggested carrying a camping shovel. If one side is too high just dig a little hole and then pull into it. Tried it and it works great!
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Old 01-10-2014, 08:26 AM   #17
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
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I have all kinds of scrap wood, and carry 5 short boards with me. I have the flip down stabilizers at the rear and screw type stands I use at the front corners. We also have a home made step that is like a wood box with rubber stair tread on it. Flipped over and set just inside the door when traveling it holds the two screw stands, boards, stabilizer rod, wheel chocks, and a fire extinguisher that sets just outside the door at the campsite. One thing I didn't see mentioned yet is a small shovel. I carry one of those folding camp shovels and at times have dug out a shallow depression for a wheel to set in to level the trailer rather than raise it up. Sometimes I'll just use one of my boards to move some dirt. This won't work on paved sites, but they are usually fairly level anyway.
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Old 01-10-2014, 08:31 AM   #18
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Name: Charlie Y
Trailer: Escape 21 - Felicity
Oregon
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I use a glass of wine for leveling; place it on the fridge and observe to see where the low corner is. Raise that corner, have a sip of wine and inspect again by replacing the glass on the fridge.

Repeat until close enough, refill as needed..................should take less than 1 bottle.

Charlie Y
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Old 01-10-2014, 09:51 AM   #19
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Name: Ted
Trailer: (Dark side)Crossroads Now
Glade Valley, North Carolina
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I have a round bubble level that I sit out on the counter when we get to the campground. I have a permanant level I mounted to the camper for leveling front to back. I usually usethe blocks
and have with all my campers. Class A, tag-a-longs, fifth wheels and now our Scamp 5er. However at the Cherokee rally a guy had the Bal leveler and it did look great. I like the fact that it chocks the wheel and levels. I will probably be purchasing one before summer.
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Old 01-10-2014, 09:56 AM   #20
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Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
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The Andersen 3604 is intriguing but I'll wait for some positive testimonials before committing. Any problem with the smaller securing wedge working loose, Jon? I know you singlehand so I'm also wondering if arriving at the needed elevation is a series of cut and try repetitions without an assistant to check level. I currently use the BAL for athwartship leveling but would gladly leave it behind for something lighter, smaller, and equally effective with less work.

jack
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Old 01-10-2014, 10:16 AM   #21
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Name: Jack
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Delaware
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+1 on Bob's entrenching tool. Absolutely indispensable around camp but for the life of me I never considered using it to "landscape" a trailer level. Thanks!

jack
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Old 01-10-2014, 11:35 AM   #22
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Name: Jon
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Oswego, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbit View Post
The Andersen 3604 is intriguing but I'll wait for some positive testimonials before committing. Any problem with the smaller securing wedge working loose, Jon? I know you singlehand so I'm also wondering if arriving at the needed elevation is a series of cut and try repetitions without an assistant to check level. I currently use the BAL for athwartship leveling but would gladly leave it behind for something lighter, smaller, and equally effective with less work.

jack
I have not had any problems with the smaller wedge. (I still use chocks for the other side & other wheel. As to getting the trailer level in one shot, I have a Hopkins lighted level installed on the front of the trailer & in most cases I can see the bubble "light" while leveling. The problems with the lighted level is I forget to turn it off & need to replace the batteries that cost more than the level! With practice I've also gotten pretty good at watching the belly band to see when the trailer is level. I usually have the trailer level in 1 - 2 "hop out & looks".

The bad with the Anderson leveler is on soft sand it will slowly sink a bit - it presents less surface area than a 2"X6". With the BAL leveler you would just get out the wrench and adjust it; with the Anderson, you have to hook up to move the trailer.

Overall, I love the Anderson. I still carry a couple of 2"X6"s and a set of leg go blocks, but haven't used them.
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Old 01-10-2014, 01:54 PM   #23
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Name: Jack
Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
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A thoughtful appraisal is better than a testimonial! Thanks. The remote reading of the belly band attitude and illuminated level is no doubt the brainchild of necessity and very clever. Hop out and look does get old in a hurry.

jack
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Old 01-10-2014, 11:35 PM   #24
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Name: Michael
Trailer: 1993 Bigfoot 17 ftCB / 2011 Toyota Sienna
Ontario
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BAL, Anderson, Lynx or wood.

They all have good/bad attributes.
Wood, if short pieces, are OK. But, I broke a dump valve when I went forward and a piece flipped up and jammed.
Lynx are good, BUT, in sand, soft ground, or after a rain, you may have to jack, or reconnect to correct.
The BAL does the job when weather, soft sand, or sagging, or anything changes. But, it's heavy, awkward, and a pain to store. It is a security lock, of sorts.
That being said, I just bought the Anderson to try out this year.
If it was easy, we'd all be doing the same thing.
Mike .....>
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Old 01-11-2014, 11:32 AM   #25
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Name: Francesca Knowles
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Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
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Thought I'd throw out another reason for carrying some blocks along even if using a Bal etc.- at least for those like me that do quick overnights here and there. I travel alone a lot and don't like to disconnect in such situations, especially if it's "unknown" territory. For front-to-back leveling in settings like that, I've often used blocks under the tug's wheels.

Below pics are a good example- I got to this remote quickstop in the middle of the night in pitch darkness. Found a roughly level spot, ran up on the blocks and was all set...even to "go" if any reason arose to do so.

My set of Lynxes was just enough to do front-to-back as well as side-to-side on the trailer.
Attached Thumbnails
Blu Lake, kids, trailer misc 202.jpg   Blu Lake, kids, trailer misc 203.jpg  

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Old 01-12-2014, 12:42 PM   #26
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Name: Larry H
Trailer: Trillium
Arizona
Posts: 303
BAL Vote +

Hello All,

For me the Bal leveler is a must. Here is my
Trillium 1300 in an otherwise unusable spot
leveled with the BAL and almost full extension
of the tongue jack.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/a...7&d=1288795599

If you are not physically able to manipulate the
BAL a good powerful cordless drill with the
appropiately sized socket attached can be used
to jack it up.

Happy New Year and Happy Egging!

Larry H
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