Leveling blocks vrs. drive on levelers

[WaltP]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

yeah, I'm not picturing the typical chock working real well on that stepped hard plastic surface.

this is a similar stepped ramp that has purpose-built chocks that lock into it.
https://www.amazon.com/BUNKERWALL-Le.../dp/B01N7YNOL8

I can see why you'd feel that way, but I've been using it that way for about 6 years now with no problem. The Bunkerwall set looks very good, but quite a few reviewers had them break or crack.

Walt

[WaltP]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

i found a bubble level app you can run on two bluetooth linked phones or phone+tablet... leave the tablet in the trailer on a flat surface, and you can see the level from the tug on your phone

Interesting. Do you have a link for that app?

Walt

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by WaltP

Interesting. Do you have a link for that app?

Walt

"Remote Level"

https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...rt.remotelevel

it worked OK with my Casita from my Tacoma, but from the Escape 21 to the F250 long bed cab, I've had reception problems between my tab and phone.

[WaltP]

Thanks John
I don't have two Android devices currently but if and when I do I can see this would be quite useful. For now I've added it to my wish list.

Walt

[Fred762]

Originally Posted by Lockman

Trying to get ready for first time camping with our to be picked up in Sept. Scamp 13. When I get to a camp site, would I be better off with stacking leveling blocks or a drive on camper leveler, such as Beech Lane system, which come with a chock block.

Also would I need for both wheels or just one side?


Since this will be a first time experience, I want this leveling bit to be easy and enjoyable.
Thanks, I really am enjoying this site. Great advise.
Jack & Jo-Ann

We using the stacked "leggo-style" drive-on levelers since we got our Casita last April. So far no problemo except some mud wh washes off easily. I always allow the "Chief Leveler Tester" to lie down in her bed and approve of the levelling job b4 unhitching... wink wink

[tinanauman]

I now use the Lego style blocks that I got at Walmart and love them. I originally had the BAL jack and HATED it!! Too much trouble to crank it up and down. It was bulky and heavy to store. The blocks are inexpensive, easy to use, light-weight and not bulky to store. Just put a few blocks down and drive up on them. Adjust as needed until level which takes no more than a couple of minutes. I threw the BAL in a dumpster. I have found other good uses for the blocks.

I am a single 67 year old female traveling full-time in a Casita pulled by a Yukon. I'll be checking out that bubble level app!

[Jeff Sky Islander]

We also bought the Andersen levelers before the incident in which the owners of Andersen defaced a monument carving their initials into the rock. It was an egregious case of vandalism, and the owners pretended to "sincerely" apologize. I would not buy another product from the company and would encourage others to do the same.

[LaurieS]

Though great advice about leveling, some of it is not relevant to a Scamp, which has only 2 wheels. I'm a 74yo single woman, also a relative newby with a Scamp 13. I had no instruction, so it's been a true learn-as-you-go experience. Other campers, especially other fiberglass trailer owners have been saviors for me, so here I am paying it forward with some of my hard-won wisdom: You really don't need to get fancy for leveling such a small camper. I also wasn't sure what I wanted yet, so I just grabbed a couple of 36" 1x4s and some wooden shims from my tool shed. Worked like a charm!

I don't know if the new Scamps have a built-in level, but if not, a simple inexpensive bubble level from the hardware store is all you need. Check the side-to-side and front-to-back level. Put blocks or whatever you use under the low wheel until it's level side-to-side, then level front-to-back by raising or lowering the front using the built-in jack on the hitch. Voila, you're level. It helps to have a second person watching the level, but not necessary -- it'll just take you longer going back & forth. DO NOT try to level using the stabilizers, even to find tune (voice of experience here).

You don't have to get crazy with parking chocks, either---one behind one wheel and one in front of the other wheel has worked well for me.

Happy camping!!

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by LaurieS

You don't have to get crazy with parking chocks, either---one behind one wheel and one in front of the other wheel has worked well for me.

Happy camping!!

Chocking like that allows the trailer to swing around if the tongue jack moves to the side. I know, cause I almost got hit by the hitch once.
I chock front and back on one side and at least one chock on the other side.

[Mike L.]

It’s likely easier to use a leveler, but we have four lengths of 1”X 6” for that we have used for years. Each 1” thickness luckily equals one increment on our level.

[John in Santa Cruz]

my issue with leveling blocks is, how do you chock that side so it can't shift fore/back if the trailer rotates on its nose jack? on uneven slopes, this is quite possible, I like o have /both/ sides of the trailer chocked front and rear... the curved 'wedge' levelers provide this chocking naturally...

[Ken Longfield]

We have had a 16 foot Scamp for 5 years and use the BAL 20280 which was recommended to us by friends who also have a 16' Scamp. It is heavy, but I can handle it. I like not having to move the trailer once I've pulled into or backed into a site. I keep it near the tailgate of my tow vehicle. It works well for us.

[Lockman]

OK People,

Thanks for all great information on leveling campers, it seems everyone has their own way of leveling their camper.

I decided and bought the Beech Land camper leveler. I think it will be for me the easiest and simplest way of leveling my Scamp 13. I like their no hassle lifetime guarantee. In my opinion, it's as good as, if not better than the Andersen and it's less expensive.



Jack & Jo-Ann

[Lockman]

Oh a p.s. to the above post. I also bought a pair of Camco chocks on a rope for the opposite wheel.


Jack & Jo-Ann

[JackieLynn]

I vote for the bal leveler. Really easy to level with it.

[Rob in Santa Cruz]

I have a slight disagreement with Post #3. It is my humble opinion that one should pull forward onto a leveling wedge rather than backing onto it. If the trailer decides to “take off” on me while unhitching I would like it to go backwards, away from me rather than pinning me between it and the truck.

[Lockman]

Rob,

I thought John said he chocks both wheels before he unhitches the tow vehicle. So that should not happen. Or am I mistaken?

Jack

[Rob in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Lockman

Rob,

I thought John said he chocks both wheels before he unhitches the tow vehicle. So that should not happen. Or am I mistaken?

Jack

You are correct “shouldn’t “, but if the chock on the “down” side of the wedge (that’s where the most rolling force would be in this situation) should, “pop out” which I have had happen, whatever movement the trailer has will be away from you. I just see it as risk mitigation.

[Lockman]

Valid point Rob.

Will make note of that and use that information. Thank you.


Jack

[Cliff Hotchkiss]

Originally Posted by Rob in Santa Cruz

I have a slight disagreement with Post #3. It is my humble opinion that one should pull forward onto a leveling wedge rather than backing onto it. If the trailer decides to “take off” on me while unhitching I would like it to go backwards, away from me rather than pinning me between it and the truck.

I use the Andersen leveler, actually a pair of them as I have dual axles on my 5.0 TA. Really like them much more than the LEGO style blocks I used to use. I believe the instructions that come with them recommended pulling forward onto them. Works for me😎