Leveling the Unit - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-25-2011, 11:23 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
I have a couple of bullet levels like Bill referenced. At home, I completely leveled my trailer. It's important to my 23 y/o 3-way refer to be level to work at maximum efficiency. Once level, I then installed two horizontal levels. One under the belly band in front and one under the belly band next to the door. When I get to my campsite, I level front to back with the tongue jack, then level side to side with the BAL leveler. Having everything in place, makes leveling a quick job.
Donna,
Do you level front to back first. I think things generally works better leveling side to side first with the BAL leveler. I usually do the side to side thing before unhitching.
If you do the front to back first, using the tongue jack and the rear stabilizers when you then level side to side you'll unload one of the rear stabilizers which in extreme cases could warp the frame.
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Old 05-25-2011, 12:55 PM   #16
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Just my 2 pense worth,
Doug, wouldn't that more properly be a tuppence ?

Mike
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Old 05-25-2011, 02:25 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
Donna,
Do you level front to back first. I think things generally works better leveling side to side first with the BAL leveler. I usually do the side to side thing before unhitching.
If you do the front to back first, using the tongue jack and the rear stabilizers when you then level side to side you'll unload one of the rear stabilizers which in extreme cases could warp the frame.
I don't use the standard rear stabilizers that Scamp puts on the rear bumper. I use Wayne's stabilizers and they're deployed after the trailer is level.
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Old 05-25-2011, 03:44 PM   #18
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I don't use the standard rear stabilizers that Scamp puts on the rear bumper. I use Wayne's stabilizers and they're deployed after the trailer is level.
Thanks for clarifying. Using the standard rear stabilizers it's a good idea to level side to side first.
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Old 05-25-2011, 09:17 PM   #19
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Thanks for all the info. This is exactly what I needed and will buy a bullet level and install as suggested by Miss Donna. Cheers! LG
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:50 AM   #20
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Just a quick update: the bubble level recommended earlier in this thread is available as an app in the iPhone store. Works like a charm...
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Old 06-10-2011, 01:45 PM   #21
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Just a quick update: the bubble level recommended earlier in this thread is available as an app in the iPhone store. Works like a charm...
Neat idea! Just reading the forums on my lunch break and installed one from the Android Marketplace - it will even beep when it's level, making it a one person job!
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Old 06-10-2011, 08:08 PM   #22
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I have a related question if "level" is not a function of the exterior...

Bear with me, this is how my brain works:
I like my stove to be relatively level so I can cook and boil without issues. The fridge floor seems to be "pretty close to" parallel to the sink surface and stovetop surface.

So, if I need to replace the bubble levels on the exterior, can I just set a measuring bowl of water on the stove (and futz around with the trailer) until the water appears level all around the measuring bowl, then install the bubbles?

Is there an easier way?
You are correct in thinking that your stove and sink can be level while the rest of the trailer can be unlevel. The bubble levels on the outside are not that accurate and probably can be moved a little. I'd just use a small carpenter level or bubble level and leave it on your refer/stove. Once it is level then you are good to go, regardless of the exterior bubble levels readings.
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