Leveling the Unit - Fiberglass RV
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Old 12-10-2008, 08:13 PM   #1
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Same Trillium, new problem. Husband spent the day trying to level the left side up about 1 1/2. Since we have stripped out the stove, frig, and sink should he wait until that has been reinstalled to level or do it first. I wouldn't let it bother me so much but he is a stickler for level and square and I don't think this will ever be level and square. This could drive you crazy if you let it. georgia
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Old 12-10-2008, 08:29 PM   #2
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Hi: Georgia... There is no square or level in "Fiberglass"!!! At best is close to or near enough...and boy did it bother the "H" out of me. I suffer from O.C.D. and it's not easy to deal with. Have fun and do lots of camping!!!
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Old 12-10-2008, 08:47 PM   #3
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LEVEL?????? What's that? The only thing I worry about when setting up (after figuring there was no such thing as level or plumb in the Scamp or the Compact) is getting the stove top level so the Wench doesn't complain..... Larry
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Old 12-10-2008, 09:02 PM   #4
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Are you talking about leveling the body shell on the frame? (I wonder because you talked about "doing it now, while the kitchen is out.")

Or are you talking about leveling the whole trailer relative to the ground, like you would do to make your bed level as you were setting up in a site?

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Old 12-10-2008, 10:24 PM   #5
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Well, I know in our Trillium that level means the fridge works.

Our Trillium's stove/fridge area is not level with the floor - so I can either level the trailer for a flat floor or level the trailer for a working fridge. Guess it all depends what temperature you like your beer =)

Edit: I use a BAL leveler to level our trailer. With that on one wheel and the tongue jack we can level accurately within a few minutes.
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Old 12-10-2008, 10:35 PM   #6
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I always carried a piece of 2x6, to put under one wheel when parked, to level the trailer. When they made ours they got the body higher on one side than the other.
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Old 12-10-2008, 10:39 PM   #7
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Same Trillium, new problem. Husband spent the day trying to level the left side up about 1 1/2. Since we have stripped out the stove, frig, and sink [b]should he wait until that has been reinstalled to level or do it first.
The ONLY reason to be a stickler for level, as Booker B. stated, is for the gas/electric powered, absorption type refrigerator to run properly. The OLDER the fridge, the more critical it is to level it.

Ice Boxes do not need to be critically leveled. Neither do electric only powered compressor type refrigerators.


Unless he is installing those bubble level fixtures to the front and side right now, He should wait until the kitchen and the fridge are re-installed.

I wasted a lot of time and effort leveling up my old Compact Jr. which did not have an absorption type fridge.
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Old 12-10-2008, 11:20 PM   #8
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Just my 2 pense worth, but I believe that in rebuild stage I'd take the time to get the frame as level as I could (for work purposses) and add the goodies inside getting them as level as posssible.
In hot-rod building this is the accepted proceedure from the start. <Start level, end level> While you are at this stage, take the time to do as good a job as you can.

This will also make your camping set up a lot easier.
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Old 12-11-2008, 07:45 AM   #9
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Just my 2 pense worth, but I believe that in rebuild stage I'd take the time to get the frame as level as I could (for work purposses) and add the goodies inside getting them as level as posssible.
In hot-rod building this is the accepted proceedure from the start. <Start level, end level> While you are at this stage, take the time to do as good a job as you can.

This will also make your camping set up a lot easier.
Thank you, thank you. I just made my husband read all your comments. It is the body/shell that he is trying to level. Loosened the bolts on the left side (they were rusted of course) and he is putting wooden shims in and is trying different thicknesses. Maybe today this will be over. Thanks all. georgia
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Old 12-11-2008, 07:51 AM   #10
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Thank you, thank you. I just made my husband read all your comments. It is the body/shell that he is trying to level. Loosened the bolts on the left side (they were rusted of course) and he is putting wooden shims in and is trying different thicknesses. Maybe today this will be over. Thanks all. georgia
And of course, he's starting with a perfectly level frame. Right?
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Old 12-11-2008, 02:08 PM   #11
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And of course, he's starting with a perfectly level frame. Right?
Yea!! The body is level and now we start on the inside. I am giving up the drawer to have a little larger frig. Silverware can go overhead. We shall see. Still in the planning stage. Thanks all. Georgia
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Old 05-24-2011, 10:39 PM   #12
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I have a related question if "level" is not a function of the exterior...

Bear with me, this is how my brain works:
I like my stove to be relatively level so I can cook and boil without issues. The fridge floor seems to be "pretty close to" parallel to the sink surface and stovetop surface.

So, if I need to replace the bubble levels on the exterior, can I just set a measuring bowl of water on the stove (and futz around with the trailer) until the water appears level all around the measuring bowl, then install the bubbles?

Is there an easier way?
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Old 05-25-2011, 05:48 AM   #13
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Just get one of these and set in fridge.

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Originally Posted by Laurie View Post
I have a related question if "level" is not a function of the exterior...

Bear with me, this is how my brain works:
I like my stove to be relatively level so I can cook and boil without issues. The fridge floor seems to be "pretty close to" parallel to the sink surface and stovetop surface.

So, if I need to replace the bubble levels on the exterior, can I just set a measuring bowl of water on the stove (and futz around with the trailer) until the water appears level all around the measuring bowl, then install the bubbles?

Is there an easier way?
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Old 05-25-2011, 07:47 AM   #14
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I have a couple of bullet levels like Bill referenced. At home, I completely leveled my trailer. It's important to my 23 y/o 3-way refer to be level to work at maximum efficiency. Once level, I then installed two horizontal levels. One under the belly band in front and one under the belly band next to the door. When I get to my campsite, I level front to back with the tongue jack, then level side to side with the BAL leveler. Having everything in place, makes leveling a quick job.
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Old 05-25-2011, 10:23 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
I have a couple of bullet levels like Bill referenced. At home, I completely leveled my trailer. It's important to my 23 y/o 3-way refer to be level to work at maximum efficiency. Once level, I then installed two horizontal levels. One under the belly band in front and one under the belly band next to the door. When I get to my campsite, I level front to back with the tongue jack, then level side to side with the BAL leveler. Having everything in place, makes leveling a quick job.
Donna,
Do you level front to back first. I think things generally works better leveling side to side first with the BAL leveler. I usually do the side to side thing before unhitching.
If you do the front to back first, using the tongue jack and the rear stabilizers when you then level side to side you'll unload one of the rear stabilizers which in extreme cases could warp the frame.
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Old 05-25-2011, 11:55 AM   #16
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Just my 2 pense worth,
Doug, wouldn't that more properly be a tuppence ?

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Old 05-25-2011, 01:25 PM   #17
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Donna,
Do you level front to back first. I think things generally works better leveling side to side first with the BAL leveler. I usually do the side to side thing before unhitching.
If you do the front to back first, using the tongue jack and the rear stabilizers when you then level side to side you'll unload one of the rear stabilizers which in extreme cases could warp the frame.
I don't use the standard rear stabilizers that Scamp puts on the rear bumper. I use Wayne's stabilizers and they're deployed after the trailer is level.
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Old 05-25-2011, 02:44 PM   #18
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I don't use the standard rear stabilizers that Scamp puts on the rear bumper. I use Wayne's stabilizers and they're deployed after the trailer is level.
Thanks for clarifying. Using the standard rear stabilizers it's a good idea to level side to side first.
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Old 05-25-2011, 08:17 PM   #19
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Thanks for all the info. This is exactly what I needed and will buy a bullet level and install as suggested by Miss Donna. Cheers! LG
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:50 AM   #20
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Just a quick update: the bubble level recommended earlier in this thread is available as an app in the iPhone store. Works like a charm...
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