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12-10-2008, 08:13 PM
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#1
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Member
Trailer: 1973 Trillium
Posts: 43
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Same Trillium, new problem. Husband spent the day trying to level the left side up about 1 1/2. Since we have stripped out the stove, frig, and sink should he wait until that has been reinstalled to level or do it first. I wouldn't let it bother me so much but he is a stickler for level and square and I don't think this will ever be level and square. This could drive you crazy if you let it. georgia
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12-10-2008, 08:29 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2007 19 ft Escape 5.0 / 2002 GMC (1973 Boler project)
Posts: 4,148
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Hi: Georgia... There is no square or level in "Fiberglass"!!! At best is close to or near enough...and boy did it bother the "H" out of me. I suffer from O.C.D. and it's not easy to deal with. Have fun and do lots of camping!!!
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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12-10-2008, 08:47 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: 13 ft Scamp 1983 and 1972 Compact Jr (project)
Posts: 554
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LEVEL?????? What's that? The only thing I worry about when setting up (after figuring there was no such thing as level or plumb in the Scamp or the Compact) is getting the stove top level so the Wench doesn't complain..... Larry
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12-10-2008, 09:02 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,008
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Are you talking about leveling the body shell on the frame? (I wonder because you talked about "doing it now, while the kitchen is out.")
Or are you talking about leveling the whole trailer relative to the ground, like you would do to make your bed level as you were setting up in a site?
Raya
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12-10-2008, 10:24 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1976 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 995
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Well, I know in our Trillium that level means the fridge works.
Our Trillium's stove/fridge area is not level with the floor - so I can either level the trailer for a flat floor or level the trailer for a working fridge. Guess it all depends what temperature you like your beer =)
Edit: I use a BAL leveler to level our trailer. With that on one wheel and the tongue jack we can level accurately within a few minutes.
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12-10-2008, 10:35 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler 1984
Posts: 2,938
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I always carried a piece of 2x6, to put under one wheel when parked, to level the trailer. When they made ours they got the body higher on one side than the other.
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12-10-2008, 10:39 PM
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#7
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Moderator
Trailer: Fiber Stream 1978 / Honda Odyssey LX 2003
Posts: 8,222
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Quote:
Same Trillium, new problem. Husband spent the day trying to level the left side up about 1 1/2. Since we have stripped out the stove, frig, and sink [b]should he wait until that has been reinstalled to level or do it first.
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The ONLY reason to be a stickler for level, as Booker B. stated, is for the gas/electric powered, absorption type refrigerator to run properly. The OLDER the fridge, the more critical it is to level it.
Ice Boxes do not need to be critically leveled. Neither do electric only powered compressor type refrigerators.
Unless he is installing those bubble level fixtures to the front and side right now, He should wait until the kitchen and the fridge are re-installed.
I wasted a lot of time and effort leveling up my old Compact Jr. which did not have an absorption type fridge.
__________________
Frederick - The Scaleman
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12-10-2008, 11:20 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1975 13 ft Trillium
Posts: 2,535
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Just my 2 pense worth, but I believe that in rebuild stage I'd take the time to get the frame as level as I could (for work purposses) and add the goodies inside getting them as level as posssible.
In hot-rod building this is the accepted proceedure from the start. <Start level, end level> While you are at this stage, take the time to do as good a job as you can.
This will also make your camping set up a lot easier.
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12-11-2008, 07:45 AM
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#9
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Member
Trailer: 1973 Trillium
Posts: 43
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Quote:
Just my 2 pense worth, but I believe that in rebuild stage I'd take the time to get the frame as level as I could (for work purposses) and add the goodies inside getting them as level as posssible.
In hot-rod building this is the accepted proceedure from the start. <Start level, end level> While you are at this stage, take the time to do as good a job as you can.
This will also make your camping set up a lot easier.
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Thank you, thank you. I just made my husband read all your comments. It is the body/shell that he is trying to level. Loosened the bolts on the left side (they were rusted of course) and he is putting wooden shims in and is trying different thicknesses. Maybe today this will be over. Thanks all. georgia
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12-11-2008, 07:51 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,711
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Quote:
Thank you, thank you. I just made my husband read all your comments. It is the body/shell that he is trying to level. Loosened the bolts on the left side (they were rusted of course) and he is putting wooden shims in and is trying different thicknesses. Maybe today this will be over. Thanks all. georgia
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And of course, he's starting with a perfectly level frame. Right?
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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12-11-2008, 02:08 PM
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#11
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Member
Trailer: 1973 Trillium
Posts: 43
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Quote:
And of course, he's starting with a perfectly level frame. Right?
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Yea!! The body is level and now we start on the inside. I am giving up the drawer to have a little larger frig. Silverware can go overhead. We shall see. Still in the planning stage. Thanks all. Georgia
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05-24-2011, 10:39 PM
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#12
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Member
Trailer: 79 Trillium 4500
Posts: 36
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I have a related question if "level" is not a function of the exterior...
Bear with me, this is how my brain works:
I like my stove to be relatively level so I can cook and boil without issues. The fridge floor seems to be "pretty close to" parallel to the sink surface and stovetop surface.
So, if I need to replace the bubble levels on the exterior, can I just set a measuring bowl of water on the stove (and futz around with the trailer) until the water appears level all around the measuring bowl, then install the bubbles?
Is there an easier way?
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05-25-2011, 05:48 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2009 Scamp 16 ft / 2003 Durango
Posts: 696
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Just get one of these and set in fridge.
Bill K
Quote:
Originally Posted by Laurie
I have a related question if "level" is not a function of the exterior...
Bear with me, this is how my brain works:
I like my stove to be relatively level so I can cook and boil without issues. The fridge floor seems to be "pretty close to" parallel to the sink surface and stovetop surface.
So, if I need to replace the bubble levels on the exterior, can I just set a measuring bowl of water on the stove (and futz around with the trailer) until the water appears level all around the measuring bowl, then install the bubbles?
Is there an easier way?
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05-25-2011, 07:47 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,711
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I have a couple of bullet levels like Bill referenced. At home, I completely leveled my trailer. It's important to my 23 y/o 3-way refer to be level to work at maximum efficiency. Once level, I then installed two horizontal levels. One under the belly band in front and one under the belly band next to the door. When I get to my campsite, I level front to back with the tongue jack, then level side to side with the BAL leveler. Having everything in place, makes leveling a quick job.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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05-25-2011, 10:23 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
I have a couple of bullet levels like Bill referenced. At home, I completely leveled my trailer. It's important to my 23 y/o 3-way refer to be level to work at maximum efficiency. Once level, I then installed two horizontal levels. One under the belly band in front and one under the belly band next to the door. When I get to my campsite, I level front to back with the tongue jack, then level side to side with the BAL leveler. Having everything in place, makes leveling a quick job.
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Donna,
Do you level front to back first. I think things generally works better leveling side to side first with the BAL leveler. I usually do the side to side thing before unhitching.
If you do the front to back first, using the tongue jack and the rear stabilizers when you then level side to side you'll unload one of the rear stabilizers which in extreme cases could warp the frame.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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05-25-2011, 11:55 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: Casita 17 ft Liberty Deluxe
Posts: 214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Mager
Just my 2 pense worth,
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Doug, wouldn't that more properly be a tuppence ?
Mike
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05-25-2011, 01:25 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,711
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman
Donna,
Do you level front to back first. I think things generally works better leveling side to side first with the BAL leveler. I usually do the side to side thing before unhitching.
If you do the front to back first, using the tongue jack and the rear stabilizers when you then level side to side you'll unload one of the rear stabilizers which in extreme cases could warp the frame.
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I don't use the standard rear stabilizers that Scamp puts on the rear bumper. I use Wayne's stabilizers and they're deployed after the trailer is level.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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05-25-2011, 02:44 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
I don't use the standard rear stabilizers that Scamp puts on the rear bumper. I use Wayne's stabilizers and they're deployed after the trailer is level.
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Thanks for clarifying. Using the standard rear stabilizers it's a good idea to level side to side first.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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05-25-2011, 08:17 PM
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#19
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Member
Trailer: 79 Trillium 4500
Posts: 36
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Thanks for all the info. This is exactly what I needed and will buy a bullet level and install as suggested by Miss Donna. Cheers! LG
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06-07-2011, 10:50 AM
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#20
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Member
Trailer: 79 Trillium 4500
Posts: 36
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Just a quick update: the bubble level recommended earlier in this thread is available as an app in the iPhone store. Works like a charm...
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