LiteHouse Trailer-4-Two Rebuild - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-06-2016, 07:20 AM   #29
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When I was looking to redo a floor, I was considering something along these lines, rather than anything containing wood. I don't believe the weight difference is that great and only works toward a lower center of gravity.

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Old 03-06-2016, 09:14 AM   #30
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When I redid my floor I went with the grind down to flat rather than use filler to raise up... I think it was the right way to go, however i wanted to share a little.

First off I used a 24 grit flat wheel on an angle grinder to do most of the heavy removal. worked well, was a dust cloud nightmare. Don’t try this in a suburban front yard or anywhere up wind of anything that you don’t want covered in dust. Buy the shop-vac filter that is waterproof and can be hosed off.

The dust and the trailer are staticly attracted to each other, the dust worked its way into unimaginable places... if you can, tape off everything, cover it in plastic or something... I had mold issues as well and had assumed I would be scrubbing every surface anyway so I hadn’t worried about the dust. Keep as much as you can covered and dust excluded, its not worth biologically contaminated areas that also will make you itchy for a week.

The regular bondo filler is fine, it is so much easier to work with than the fiber re-enforced kind... The truth is if you need the extra strength, build up the strength with mat and use the bondo to make the shape. Whenever I could, I used glass under and above anywhere I used filler
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Old 03-06-2016, 09:23 AM   #31
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oh yea... The shape of you trailer is probably like mine, very plastic... with the floor rotten and or removed the walls and rest of the trailer responds dynamically... It is a bit of trial and error to determine the shape the trailer wants to be... start experimenting and figure out a clamping plan for when you want to glue the floor back in... check the walls against a template from the cabinets and door to be sure they are in the right shape... if you put a straight edge along the fiberglass floor it might be humping in the middle and letting the walls sag down. think about how you will support all of this weight to allow the plywood to resin-in flat.
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Old 03-06-2016, 09:26 AM   #32
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I think I might have had too much coffee this morning but I hope some of this information is helpful... oh yea, I would also advocate for polyester resins over the epoxy, I don’t know what west systems product you had meant
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Old 03-06-2016, 01:27 PM   #33
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I think I might have had too much coffee this morning but I hope some of this information is helpful... oh yea, I would also advocate for polyester resins over the epoxy, I donít know what west systems product you had meant

Why polyester resin? And, yes, very helpful.


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Old 03-06-2016, 01:31 PM   #34
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ID:	93057 It appears that the original builder used red locktite on the big bolts.


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Old 03-06-2016, 07:08 PM   #35
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The idea basically is that the trailer, with the exception of the wood, has lasted a very long time with the materials they chose. Epoxy resins stick to anything but polyester only sticks to polyester, once you switch to epoxies you have to stay there... and so do future owners.
That being said I have probably put down 7 gallons of resin, there is a large price difference and so far I have found little lacking in the strength of the polyester
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Old 03-06-2016, 07:27 PM   #36
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Does polyester resin saturate plywood as well as epoxy?
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Old 03-07-2016, 06:18 AM   #37
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It may be too good to be true but I found an alternative to West or System 3 for a much more reasonable price. Has anyone had experience with resins from these guys? http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html


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Old 03-07-2016, 08:19 AM   #38
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Was your marine plywood BC birch?


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I don't know. We got it from a local marine yard.
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:25 AM   #39
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Paul's been getting his epoxy resin at a local auto body shop. The hardener is available even at Lowe's or MacLendon's hardware stores.

He's paying about $40 a gallon for the resin. It requires no special treatment to kick or harden, just add the appropriate amount of hardener for the temperature and it takes about 20 minutes total, maybe less, but he gives it that long.

It's sticking to everything he wants it to stick to very well. So far. But he's also doing a great deal of prep work and later lots of fairing and more prep for priming with Rustoleum Marine (wood and fiberglass) "white" primer.
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Old 03-08-2016, 11:09 AM   #40
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Attachment 93057 It appears that the original builder used red locktite on the big bolts.
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I'm assuming that I should replace the carriage bolts with grade 5?
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Old 03-08-2016, 11:21 AM   #41
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Cool

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Why polyester resin? And, yes, very helpful.


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According to some youtube sites, a boat repair show, in particular, polyester resin is more flexible. Epoxy resin is stronger. The person uses polyester resin only on curves where flexibility is key, and insists he uses epoxy everywhere else.

Polyester resin is, as far as we can tell, more "dangerous" than epoxy. The epoxy can states if you start to get a headache or feel dizzy from the fumes, get the sufferer out into fresh air until he feels better. (Or she.) You need a gas mask or tons of ventilation to work with polyester...as far as we can tell. You also need to do something special to get the polyester resin to harden: cover it with clear plastic (like saran wrap) or wax. That is, it hardens in the absence of air.

Epoxy resin hardens in air just fine.

If you're really interested in the discussion here about that, why don't you check out the "Fear of Fiberglassing" thread? It was ours to start with, and we got a LOT of good adivce.

One fellow here says ONLY to use polyester, but a LOT of us use epoxy for repairs. Paul has found the epoxy to be relatively simple to use. I'm relatively certain Bondo-Hair is epoxy, for the simple reason that you don't have to cover it with saran wrap or wax to get it to harden, and it has been sticking to the original material just fine..

Epoxy will stick to EVERYTHING. Polyester won't stick to epoxy, though why on earth it would work that way since epoxy sticks to IT, is beyond me.
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Old 03-08-2016, 12:40 PM   #42
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ID:	931402 sheets of 1/2" AB marine plywood. I'm out $61/sheet. The plywood is on it's way to Making Awesome, our local Makerspace where I'll use the table saw to make the big cuts. I'll do the rounded corners on site with a portable jigsaw.


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