Location of New Power Converter & Outlets - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-25-2012, 09:27 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
Hmmm...maybe under furnace with face toward front of trailer, by door?

Depends on height of converter where it has to clear underside of furnace.
I had thought of that too...Looking inside of that space I saw the LP Gas pipe and below a wheel well. Just not sure, and does it nee to be next to the battery?
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:44 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Ed Harris View Post
I fully understand what both of you are saying regarding the Converter box and access to it.
I am just thinking a little "Outside the Box" as far as installation as you seem determined to not install it where you might if you cut a hole for it?

By building a box around it you would be "putting it in a wall" and I am sure it would still get adequate ventilation if the old one did in that same spot.

The need for access is really for when you are installing it and if you need to change a blown fuse but otherwise not really an issue. If you can stick it where you can reach it then you can change a fuse.

The ideal will be to find a spot,cut a hole and away you go but short of that.........
Ed, I understand. So, If building a box where the old one is, mounting the thing, and If I can get to it when necessary...well yes, I like hiding it better than cutting a new Big hole in the fiberglass.
It is not etched in concrete that I use this new converter if another one might work better. I bought this one because I do not know as much about electricity as you guys and it had it's own fuse panel and everthing all together and will not over charge the battery. If you think this will work then I will seriously consider it. I appreciate all the suggestions.
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Old 02-25-2012, 03:10 PM   #17
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converter

That's what we did, made a spot in the bottom of the closet we built near the door where the front bench was. WFCO8735 from Best Coverter, was not too bad to hook up with a couple of calls and emails to Randy with Best. It's close to the battery and the main outside electric hook up.
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Old 02-25-2012, 03:26 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by D Davis View Post
I had thought of that too...Looking inside of that space I saw the LP Gas pipe and below a wheel well. Just not sure, and does it need to be next to the battery?
You could mount it a few feet from the battery and just use a heavier wire. Way up front would be a stretch. I'm just not sure if you could shoehorn it in under the furnace. It is an awkward shape and really designed for a larger camper

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Originally Posted by D Davis View Post
Ed, I understand. So, If building a box where the old one is, mounting the thing, and If I can get to it when necessary...well yes, I like hiding it better than cutting a new Big hole in the fiberglass.
It is not etched in concrete that I use this new converter if another one might work better. I bought this one because I do not know as much about electricity as you guys and it had it's own fuse panel and everything all together and will not over charge the battery. If you think this will work then I will seriously consider it. I appreciate all the suggestions.
I'm a cheapskate so, keep that in mind. If it was me, I'd take the old converter out, clean it up and hook up the 110 volt wires and see if it works. If so, I'd reinstall it. You might be able to install it in a different place such as under the furnace with access to the fuses from the right rear cubby hole. You should almost never need access.

If the old converter is not easily fixable, I'd consider buying a converter with a more compact overall size, similar to the original. The new converters will do a nicer job of charging the battery with their electronic 3 stage chargers, but the old one was perfectly serviceable, just not optimal. Something like this:

Inteli-Power 9100 Converter/Charger, 30 Amps - $142.99

I don't think it has a fuse panel, but the panel that Bob recommended would be fine or get another one similar to it off eBay in the $20 range. Easy to wire and gives you more flexibility for mounting location. Some have mounted panels on a hinge, so it swings up to access then tucks away flat against a wall, as an example.

NOS 12 VOLT ATC FUSE PANEL FOR RV POWER CONVERTER CIRCUITS,ELECTRICAL PROTECTION | eBay
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Old 02-25-2012, 03:28 PM   #19
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Since you are making the back table/bed into a permanent bed, how about building a box that would sit under the bed just in front of the battery. Then it would be close to the battery, out of the way, it would be easily vented, the only hole you would is for wires, not take up any of the built in storage, and you could get to the fuse panel.
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Old 02-25-2012, 07:26 PM   #20
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Red face Old Converter

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
You could mount it a few feet from the battery and just use a heavier wire. Way up front would be a stretch. I'm just not sure if you could shoehorn it in under the furnace. It is an awkward shape and really designed for a larger camper



I'm a cheapskate so, keep that in mind. If it was me, I'd take the old converter out, clean it up and hook up the 110 volt wires and see if it works. If so, I'd reinstall it. You might be able to install it in a different place such as under the furnace with access to the fuses from the right rear cubby hole. You should almost never need access.

If the old converter is not easily fixable, I'd consider buying a converter with a more compact overall size, similar to the original. The new converters will do a nicer job of charging the battery with their electronic 3 stage chargers, but the old one was perfectly serviceable, just not optimal. Something like this:

Inteli-Power 9100 Converter/Charger, 30 Amps - $142.99

I don't think it has a fuse panel, but the panel that Bob recommended would be fine or get another one similar to it off eBay in the $20 range. Easy to wire and gives you more flexibility for mounting location. Some have mounted panels on a hinge, so it swings up to access then tucks away flat against a wall, as an example.

NOS 12 VOLT ATC FUSE PANEL FOR RV POWER CONVERTER CIRCUITS,ELECTRICAL PROTECTION | eBay
Thanks Thomas, I will check to see if the old converter will work first.
If it does not, then I will get a smaller one and a fuse panel like Bob suggested. I like having the flexibility better Than cutting a big fat hole in the fiberglass. I appreciate all the suggestions from everyone so much. You all are kind to try and help others, and you have been patient with me. For Sale, a New WFC0 8955 Power Center, HA! What a learning curve.
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Old 02-25-2012, 07:29 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mouse View Post
Since you are making the back table/bed into a permanent bed, how about building a box that would sit under the bed just in front of the battery. Then it would be close to the battery, out of the way, it would be easily vented, the only hole you would is for wires, not take up any of the built in storage, and you could get to the fuse panel.
Thanks Mouse for your suggestion, been scratching my head a lot on this one.
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Old 02-28-2012, 09:09 PM   #22
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RE: WFCO 8955 Install
I have done a number of rewires on 20-35 year old Toyota motorhomes and I don't care for either WFCO or American converters.
I think that builders use them because they are inexpensive and will last as long as the original warranty lasts.
I use only Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power converters and suggest the Intelipower 4045 or 4065 as a replacement choice.
They have a dozen fused 12 VDC circuits, at least 7 AC branch circuits, and three stage battery charging. Best prices seem to be at VINtek, here's a link to their on-line site
www.teardroptrailerparts.com
also look for their store on eBay
I just changed out the fried American CX2000 from our Scamp for a 4045, took all of about 2 hours. Sweeeeet....
Good Luck
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Old 02-28-2012, 09:48 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
RE: WFCO 8955 Install
I have done a number of rewires on 20-35 year old Toyota motorhomes and I don't care for either WFCO or American converters.
I think that builders use them because they are inexpensive and will last as long as the original warranty lasts.
I use only Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power converters and suggest the Intelipower 4045 or 4065 as a replacement choice.
They have a dozen fused 12 VDC circuits, at least 7 AC branch circuits, and three stage battery charging. Best prices seem to be at VINtek, here's a link to their on-line site
www.teardroptrailerparts.com
also look for their store on eBay
I just changed out the fried American CX2000 from our Scamp for a 4045, took all of about 2 hours. Sweeeeet....
Good Luck
Man I thought this thread was dead. I am so glad you cared enough to
make your suggestions. I have been sitting on this, worrying about it.
I will try to sell the new Big WFCO converter to anyone who may want it.
Then get the Inteli power one. whooow...That really solves alot of the problem. Thank you so very much!
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Old 02-29-2012, 06:42 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by D Davis View Post
Man I thought this thread was dead. I am so glad you cared enough to
make your suggestions. I have been sitting on this, worrying about it.
I will try to sell the new Big WFCO converter to anyone who may want it.
Then get the Inteli power one. whooow...That really solves alot of the problem. Thank you so very much!
If you go this way, please consider selling the old converter as opposed to tossing it out. It is nice to keep original UHaul parts in circulation. There is a special sub-forum here for selling and trading parts.
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Old 02-29-2012, 06:58 AM   #25
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I just took out my original Uhaul converter, saved the fuse panel from it and threw away the rest of it. I installed an 1150 truck battery as I have several of those, put the fuse panel on the side of the battery box, and put in a battery disconnect switch. For now I don't need a converter, will probably get one later though, going to use a small battery charger that I can plug into the system. I have two 110 lights for when outside power is available, three outlets, and four 12 volt lights. I'm keeping my systems separate. Like they say, "don't try this at home" or "performed by professional's, do not attempt" LOL Bob PS with apologies, I have a Dilbert type odd sense of humor!!
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Old 02-29-2012, 07:23 AM   #26
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Diane
Now I am confused?
You already own a brand new Converter/Charger/Distro panel that you are having trouble finding a spot to install.right?

The Intellipower unit with a distro panel and extra charge wizard device will surely be about the same size and come with the exact same challenges to install AND you will have to buy it too and then you will have 2 units to deal with.

While I have read and can accept that the Intellipower units are good and maybe the best in general,You have to wonder if the best for you is the brand new one you already have?
How do you know that the newly suggested unit it indeed any smaller at all?
I looked briefly and I am not convinced.

In fact one of Progressive Dynamics entire product lines is Direct Replacement Units for other manufacturers units. This tells me that they need to be EXACTLY the same size in order to mount where another one already was.

I think you might not realize that the modern converters are really more alike than they are different?
Each of them is going to present the same requirements to installing them in your trailer as the others so I think it makes sense to decide the lengths you are ready to go to get any of them installed and any of the modern units will work where your old one appears not to.

Also it sounds like your old unit has no disrobution panel where you connect the loads and they are protected by fuses?

All of the modern units will have them and this makes them all roughly the same design and size.

You also seem confused by the term "Wall Mount" for a converter but I think the idea is for a simpler install not a more difficult one.
My suggestion before about building a box for it was to let you install it without having to cut a new hole inside the trailer but also not let the converter just flop around if you don't install it in a wall. It doesn't matter much how you install it as long as it is attached to something and your loads are connected to it securely.

I guess all I am trying to explain is that how you install it is more important than which one if you are installing a new modern unit.

Ed
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:02 AM   #27
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Ed the original UHaul converter has an integral fuse panel. Someone cut off the AC input wires on Diane's camper converter. I'm not sure if she was able to confirm that it doesn't work or is just turned off by the rust.

The issue, as I see it, is that the converter that she bought has a very large face that wants a big hole cut somewhere to mount easily. I'm having a hard time visualizing a box to install it in that is accessible and does not take up floor space. Maybe you can expand on what that that concept might look like.
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:27 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
Ed the original UHaul converter has an integral fuse panel. Someone cut off the AC input wires on Diane's camper converter. I'm not sure if she was able to confirm that it doesn't work or is just turned off by the rust.

The issue, as I see it, is that the converter that she bought has a very large face that wants a big hole cut somewhere to mount easily. I'm having a hard time visualizing a box to install it in that is accessible and does not take up floor space. Maybe you can expand on what that that concept might look like.
I understand this but I think any modern converter will have the same profile and size.

If it has not been determined yet whether the old one even works then that may be a first step.
If it doesn't and really is simply a 12vdc transformer then that should be easy to replace with another transformer and avoid all of this other stuff.
Not really an ideal solution but a simple one.

I am not that familiar with the trailer here so I can not suggest a specific design without knowing the layout better but I am just saying that either it needs to be enclosed in a wall or built in to something so it can remain stationary wherever it sits.
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