Location of New Power Converter & Outlets

[D Davis]

Originally Posted by Mouse

Since you are making the back table/bed into a permanent bed, how about building a box that would sit under the bed just in front of the battery. Then it would be close to the battery, out of the way, it would be easily vented, the only hole you would is for wires, not take up any of the built in storage, and you could get to the fuse panel.

Thanks Mouse for your suggestion, been scratching my head a lot on this one.

[Bob Miller]

RE: WFCO 8955 Install
I have done a number of rewires on 20-35 year old Toyota motorhomes and I don't care for either WFCO or American converters.
I think that builders use them because they are inexpensive and will last as long as the original warranty lasts.
I use only Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power converters and suggest the Intelipower 4045 or 4065 as a replacement choice.
They have a dozen fused 12 VDC circuits, at least 7 AC branch circuits, and three stage battery charging. Best prices seem to be at VINtek, here's a link to their on-line site
www.teardroptrailerparts.com
also look for their store on eBay
I just changed out the fried American CX2000 from our Scamp for a 4045, took all of about 2 hours. Sweeeeet....
Good Luck

[D Davis]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

RE: WFCO 8955 Install
I have done a number of rewires on 20-35 year old Toyota motorhomes and I don't care for either WFCO or American converters.
I think that builders use them because they are inexpensive and will last as long as the original warranty lasts.
I use only Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power converters and suggest the Intelipower 4045 or 4065 as a replacement choice.
They have a dozen fused 12 VDC circuits, at least 7 AC branch circuits, and three stage battery charging. Best prices seem to be at VINtek, here's a link to their on-line site
www.teardroptrailerparts.com
also look for their store on eBay
I just changed out the fried American CX2000 from our Scamp for a 4045, took all of about 2 hours. Sweeeeet....
Good Luck

Man I thought this thread was dead. I am so glad you cared enough to
make your suggestions. I have been sitting on this, worrying about it.
I will try to sell the new Big WFCO converter to anyone who may want it.
Then get the Inteli power one. whooow...That really solves alot of the problem. Thank you so very much!

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by D Davis

Man I thought this thread was dead. I am so glad you cared enough to
make your suggestions. I have been sitting on this, worrying about it.
I will try to sell the new Big WFCO converter to anyone who may want it.
Then get the Inteli power one. whooow...That really solves alot of the problem. Thank you so very much!

If you go this way, please consider selling the old converter as opposed to tossing it out. It is nice to keep original UHaul parts in circulation. There is a special sub-forum here for selling and trading parts.

[mary and bob]

I just took out my original Uhaul converter, saved the fuse panel from it and threw away the rest of it. I installed an 1150 truck battery as I have several of those, put the fuse panel on the side of the battery box, and put in a battery disconnect switch. For now I don't need a converter, will probably get one later though, going to use a small battery charger that I can plug into the system. I have two 110 lights for when outside power is available, three outlets, and four 12 volt lights. I'm keeping my systems separate. Like they say, "don't try this at home" or "performed by professional's, do not attempt" LOL Bob PS with apologies, I have a Dilbert type odd sense of humor!!

[Ed Harris]

Diane
Now I am confused?
You already own a brand new Converter/Charger/Distro panel that you are having trouble finding a spot to install.right?

The Intellipower unit with a distro panel and extra charge wizard device will surely be about the same size and come with the exact same challenges to install AND you will have to buy it too and then you will have 2 units to deal with.

While I have read and can accept that the Intellipower units are good and maybe the best in general,You have to wonder if the best for you is the brand new one you already have?
How do you know that the newly suggested unit it indeed any smaller at all?
I looked briefly and I am not convinced.

In fact one of Progressive Dynamics entire product lines is Direct Replacement Units for other manufacturers units. This tells me that they need to be EXACTLY the same size in order to mount where another one already was.

I think you might not realize that the modern converters are really more alike than they are different?
Each of them is going to present the same requirements to installing them in your trailer as the others so I think it makes sense to decide the lengths you are ready to go to get any of them installed and any of the modern units will work where your old one appears not to.

Also it sounds like your old unit has no disrobution panel where you connect the loads and they are protected by fuses?

All of the modern units will have them and this makes them all roughly the same design and size.

You also seem confused by the term "Wall Mount" for a converter but I think the idea is for a simpler install not a more difficult one.
My suggestion before about building a box for it was to let you install it without having to cut a new hole inside the trailer but also not let the converter just flop around if you don't install it in a wall. It doesn't matter much how you install it as long as it is attached to something and your loads are connected to it securely.

I guess all I am trying to explain is that how you install it is more important than which one if you are installing a new modern unit.

Ed

[Thomas G.]

Ed the original UHaul converter has an integral fuse panel. Someone cut off the AC input wires on Diane's camper converter. I'm not sure if she was able to confirm that it doesn't work or is just turned off by the rust.

The issue, as I see it, is that the converter that she bought has a very large face that wants a big hole cut somewhere to mount easily. I'm having a hard time visualizing a box to install it in that is accessible and does not take up floor space. Maybe you can expand on what that that concept might look like.

[Ed Harris]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

Ed the original UHaul converter has an integral fuse panel. Someone cut off the AC input wires on Diane's camper converter. I'm not sure if she was able to confirm that it doesn't work or is just turned off by the rust.

The issue, as I see it, is that the converter that she bought has a very large face that wants a big hole cut somewhere to mount easily. I'm having a hard time visualizing a box to install it in that is accessible and does not take up floor space. Maybe you can expand on what that that concept might look like.

I understand this but I think any modern converter will have the same profile and size.

If it has not been determined yet whether the old one even works then that may be a first step.
If it doesn't and really is simply a 12vdc transformer then that should be easy to replace with another transformer and avoid all of this other stuff.
Not really an ideal solution but a simple one.

I am not that familiar with the trailer here so I can not suggest a specific design without knowing the layout better but I am just saying that either it needs to be enclosed in a wall or built in to something so it can remain stationary wherever it sits.

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by Ed Harris

I understand this but I think any modern converter will have the same profile and size.

I'm not sure that is true. If you look at the converter I linked in post #18 you will see it lacks the large face plate that is problematic.

If it has not been determined yet whether the old one even works then that may be a first step.
If it doesn't and really is simply a 12vdc transformer then that should be easy to replace with another transformer and avoid all of this other stuff.
Not really an ideal solution but a simple one.

The original is just a transformer with a bridge rectifier and an integral fuse panel. Essentially like an old fashioned large battery charger.

I am not that familiar with the trailer here so I can not suggest a specific design without knowing the layout better but I am just saying that either it needs to be enclosed in a wall or built in to something so it can remain stationary wherever it sits.

She could build a box that allows the front to face upward and stick it in a storage cubby, but she is trying to reclaim the storage space the old inverrter took up. That is why I suggested sticking the more compact inverter into the dead recesses under the furnace and locating the fuse panel where it is accessible.

[D Davis]

Gentlemen and listening ladies, the Uhaul converter there now, has no cord,
or fuse panel attached to it or the old battery box. I did take the trailer to the RV repair man for an estimate on putting in new wires and 12 volt system. 2 110 outlets and install new converter. Brought the trailer home yesterday evening because...well no way will I pay the extremely high costs they quoted me.
I had also asked them to see if uhaul converter is working. They did not check it out. So I think maybe all I need to do is to connect the converter to the battery and get a 12 volt light buld in the socket and stick it to it? If it lites up it works, Right?
I have a new battery 24 group deep cell Optima, the guy said DO NOT OVERCHARGE this battery, so that was my other thought for new charger.
I realize the new chargers have a fuse panel on them, I realize I can build a box, my thinking was upon a new one to get a deck mount inteli power.
There is a warning on the New converter that says " DO NOT MOUNT IN CABINET,
or near a battery, or LP gas" MUST VENT, may arc. I am afraid I am going to have to learn fast and do this work myself. I am not afraid...my desire to be in the woods is great so I will do what is necessary.
I will save all Uhaul parts if I remove them Thomas, Thanks.
Ed, Bob, Brook, to all, I am thankful and appreciative of your responses. I am reading them all and thinking about them.

[Bob Miller]

A converter is much more than a "DC Transformer". In the first place there is no such animal, transformers in converters have to be a/c and, in a converter panel, a transformer is used to drop the 120 VAC to about 20 VAC, which is then converted, using diodes and filters etc., to about 14 VDC for battery charginging and 12 VDC for accessories.
Older converters were very simple and were well known for under or over charging batteries, modern converters use three stage, microprocessor controlled, battery charging circuits to not only charge the battery at high and low (maintenance) rates, they will also send a high voltage short term charge every 21 hours or so to desulfate the plates, leading to better and longer battery performance.
When most of our older trailers were built we din't think about adding TV's, DVD Players, stellite systems, Toaster ovens and all the other "stuff" we now find essential, as a result the older power distribution systems may no longer be adequate.
When I rewired my 1968 Airstream many years ago all I had was a battery charger, a huge 8D battery, a couple of fuses and a piece of plywood with a bunch of screws for terminal on it to work with.
Unless being authentic/original is critical, that just won't hack it today. However, if you want to keep the "Original" appearance, Intel-Power also has free standing converters than can be wired into existing power dist. panels, as well as one that is an exact fit into the lower section of some of the older "Brown Box" units. There is also a surface mounting 20 circuit fuse panel available at VINtek.
In the case of the mentioned mounting problem, I can't see any reason whatsoever why a converter can't be mounted into the space below the dinette seats, as it is in my Scamp and will soon be in my own Hunter Compact-II

[D Davis]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

A converter is much more than a "DC Transformer". In the first place there is no such animal, transformers in converters have to be a/c and, in a converter panel, a transformer is used to drop the 120 VAC to about 20 VAC, which is then converted, using diodes and filters etc., to about 14 VDC for battery charginging and 12 VDC for accessories.
Older converters were very simple and were well known for under or over charging batteries, modern converters use three stage, microprocessor controlled, battery charging circuits to not only charge the battery at high and low (maintenance) rates, they will also send a high voltage short term charge every 21 hours or so to desulfate the plates, leading to better and longer battery performance.
When most of our older trailers were built we din't think about adding TV's, DVD Players, stellite systems, Toaster ovens and all the other "stuff" we now find essential, as a result the older power distribution systems may no longer be adequate.
When I rewired my 1968 Airstream many years ago all I had was a battery charger, a huge 8D battery, a couple of fuses and a piece of plywood with a bunch of screws for terminal on it to work with.
Unless being authentic/original is critical, that just won't hack it today. However, if you want to keep the "Original" appearance, Intel-Power also has free standing converters than can be wired into existing power dist. panels, as well as one that is an exact fit into the lower section of some of the older "Brown Box" units. There is also a surface mounting 20 circuit fuse panel available at VINtek.
In the case of the mentioned mounting problem, I can't see any reason whatsoever why a converter can't be mounted into the space below the dinette seats, as it is in my Scamp and will soon be in my own Hunter Compact-II

Bob, Thanks for the information. I need it and appreciate it. I think the difference between the Scamp and the Uhaul is in the Scamp the Battery is located on the tongue so it is near the converter located in cabinet under front bench cabinet. The Uhaul battery is under the rear middle seat cabinet next to the converter. Todays deep cell batteries are exspensive,
I agree do not want to over or under charge it. I am headed out to the trailer to measure some places now... will get back shortly. Thanks

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by D Davis

..... So I think maybe all I need to do is to connect the converter to the battery and get a 12 volt light bulb in the socket and stick it to it? If it lites up it works, Right?
...........

OK, if you are gonna be a trailer repair person , ya gotta break down and buy a multimeter. You can get an adequate one for $10, free with the right Harbor Freight coupon. Strip back the 110v AC wires where they are cut off and use wire nuts (Google it) to attach an old length of extension cord. Plug it in. You should get about 13 or so volts at the fuse panel. Or if you have your heart set on a new high tech charger, sell the old one and buy a smaller converter with smart charging capability.

Originally Posted by D Davis

...snip.....
I will save all Uhaul parts if I remove them Thomas, Thanks.
.....snip.....

Thanks. I guess I'm just sentimental, but I really hate seeing unreplaceable parts go into the dump.

[Pam Garlow]

It sounds like it's made more for a 'stick built' trailer than one of ours. Is there any chance that it can be laid on it's back and attached to the floor? (i.e. use the 'floor' as the 'wall' surface to attach to.
If you don't have a furnace like I do (took mine out) you might be able to put it inside that cavity?

You also might have to pack less stuff to make room for it.

I paid the price and had my wiring redone. It was expensive, but the wireing was in poor shape and I am a worry wart. They put in a new breaker and made sure all the hookups, etc were correct for my converter. Luckily, my original converter (inverter?) still works fine. But when it goes, I might have the same problem as you.

[Carol H]

[QUOTE="D Davis"]
Bob, Thanks for the information. I need it and appreciate it. I think the difference between the Scamp and the Uhaul is in the Scamp the Battery is located on the tongue so it is near the converter located in cabinet under front bench cabinet. T/QUOTE]

Actually on my Scamp & most others I have seen the converter is located in the back bench so there is a fairly long run from the battery to the converter.

[Thomas G.]

Actually on my Scamp & most others I have seen the converter is located in the back bench so there is a fairly long run from the battery to the converter.

You can separate the converter and the battery, but you need to upgage the wire because the battery charge rate is very sensitive to voltage - kind of like the tow vehicle charge wire gauge discussion.

[D Davis]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

OK, if you are gonna be a trailer repair person , ya gotta break down and buy a multimeter. You can get an adequate one for $10, free with the right Harbor Freight coupon. Strip back the 110v AC wires where they are cut off and use wire nuts (Google it) to attach an old length of extension cord. Plug it in. You should get about 13 or so volts at the fuse panel. Or if you have your heart set on a new high tech charger, sell the old one and buy a smaller converter with smart charging capability.



Thanks. I guess I'm just sentimental, but I really hate seeing unreplaceable parts go into the dump.

HA! Thomas, guess you are laughing now A gray haired but young at heart woman trying to wire a trailer. Yep, got a multimeter...don't know what it means or how to use it yet, but I got one! Got a wire stripper, wire nuts, went out and priced wire today. I Keep telling myself...How hard could this be. How hard could this be...
I am trying to sell the WFCO 8955 Power center Converter/Charger
I'm cheap, don't want to pay the costs to mail back. HA
We shall see how this goes, will work on it this Saturday. It's raining here now and I have no power in the trailer.

[D Davis]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

You can separate the converter and the battery, but you need to upgage the wire because the battery charge rate is very sensitive to voltage - kind of like the tow vehicle charge wire gauge discussion.

Upgage...Does that mean a larger diameter wire?

[D Davis]

Originally Posted by Pam Garlow

It sounds like it's made more for a 'stick built' trailer than one of ours. Is there any chance that it can be laid on it's back and attached to the floor? (i.e. use the 'floor' as the 'wall' surface to attach to.
If you don't have a furnace like I do (took mine out) you might be able to put it inside that cavity?

You also might have to pack less stuff to make room for it.

I paid the price and had my wiring redone. It was expensive, but the wireing was in poor shape and I am a worry wart. They put in a new breaker and made sure all the hookups, etc were correct for my converter. Luckily, my original converter (inverter?) still works fine. But when it goes, I might have the same problem as you.

Thanks Pam and Carol for your responses! Still have the old furnace just put it back in, don't know yet if it works. Wiring comes first. I appreciate all responses.

[D Davis]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

You can separate the converter and the battery, but you need to upgage the wire because the battery charge rate is very sensitive to voltage - kind of like the tow vehicle charge wire gauge discussion.

I will read the Tow Vehicle charge wire guage discussion, Thanks!