lock needs fixing

[cyndi H]

I have pics this time. I've noticed my door is sagging from the top hinge again. i will fix that and that will help somewhat with the door fit. it was done before with new hardware and locking washers and after it was freshly done the door fit enough to lock. They have gotten loose again, i dont know how that happened seeing as they are supposed to be locking washers. I need to remove the cut away section of lock and have a metal shop replace it. My worry is i wont be able to get it back on. I had trouble with one curtain rod b/c the lip of the cupboard against the shell was too thick for my rivet. for some reason i cannot get thick rivets. Does anyone have some band aid solutions for this? i really need a locking door. i will replace the cut out portion and straighten the door but that fabulous door redo that was sent is beyond me. Has anyone sucessfully added an extra lock? thanks for the tips.

[Roy in TO]

It looks more like the fiberglass needs fixing from the pictures.

If you really do need a lock, check out this thread:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/in...howtopic=34594

Have you searched for reasons the door sags?

[The Hobo]

I have pics this time. I've noticed my door is sagging from the top hinge again. i will fix that and that will help somewhat with the door fit. it was done before with new hardware and locking washers and after it was freshly done the door fit enough to lock. They have gotten loose again, i dont know how that happened seeing as they are supposed to be locking washers. I need to remove the cut away section of lock and have a metal shop replace it. My worry is i wont be able to get it back on. I had trouble with one curtain rod b/c the lip of the cupboard against the shell was too thick for my rivet. for some reason i cannot get thick rivets. Does anyone have some band aid solutions for this? i really need a locking door. i will replace the cut out portion and straighten the door but that fabulous door redo that was sent is beyond me. Has anyone sucessfully added an extra lock? thanks for the tips.

Drill out the old rivets,then take a piece of 1/8"X 2" flat steel and simply bend the flat steel to the same shape of the old strike plate, then re-rivet with large rivets.

[Darwin Maring]

I don't like lock washers for the same reasons you are having problems with.

Go to Advance Auto or other auto parts store and purchase a Locktight product (In a tube) that you put on the threads. It locks the bolt to the nut.

Blue tube you can take apart later and RED tube may lock it so tight you may never get it apart again.

I use the Blue and purchase the jell type that is in a lipstick type tube. I always want the option of being able to take it apart later.

[cyndi H]

I don't like lock washers for the same reasons you are having problems with.

Go to Advance Auto or other auto parts store and purchase a Locktight product (In a tube) that you put on the threads. It locks the bolt to the nut.

Blue tube you can take apart later and RED tube may lock it so tight you may never get it apart again.

I use the Blue and purchase the jell type that is in a lipstick type tube. I always want the option of being able to take it apart later.

Thanks for all the great tips. I suspect that the sagging is caused by the design flaws. Then the sagging caused the lock not to function, one owner cut away the metal part to address it, then another owner then added the two screws to compensate for that. All the while, the door didnt even shut properly so the only way to do that was repeated slamming (which i am guilty of ) I suspect that is the cause of the fiberglass cracking. My dillema is i like things done properly, but after reading that great article of re-doing the door i know that is way beyond what i can do, or afford to pay someone else to do. So, the goal is to go for the best band aid available. I'm going to look for one of those bergman locks, get the metal replaced in the meantime, and "fix?" the door sag with lock tight (great idea, I think i even have some) If that all holds up i can fill in the fiberglass cracks later. I was looking at the scamp door hinge replacements. Those may be worth a look as well. I havent yet compared to see if they are the same hardware. Thanks again.

[Roy in TO]

Check to make sure your floor is solid and your frame has no cracks.
The frame typically cracks streetside where it starts to come in towards the A frame at the end of a gusset. On curbside check right where the floor drops on the hinge side of your door.

The Scamp hinges are slightly different but work. Many find that simply replacing the balls and spring set to be helpful. If you order from Scamp, get 2 sets as they call a set (1 ball, bolt, nut spring) which is good for one hinge.