Loose Rivits on 2014 Scamp - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 04-30-2015, 07:17 AM   #29
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Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
Posts: 7,914
The acorn nuts spin onto the installed pop-rivet end just fine. I use a electric nut drive set at minimum torque and on they go.....

IMHO: I think that Scamps method is compromising the long term security of the rivets by requiring that they pull the joint together AND retain the acorn nut at the same time.

I will continue to replace any pop-rivets in fiberglass using backing washers and then threading the acorn nuts on after the fact.

Let's see.... Does anyone ever hear of pop-rivets coming loose/leaking in a Scamp? Hoodathunkit?

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Old 04-30-2015, 08:51 PM   #30
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Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette
Posts: 567
I agree with Bob that the backing washer does the holding on the inside. Relying on the sketchy cosmetic acorn nuts to pull the panels together is too inconsistent due to variations in the materials.
Whether you elect to install the acorn nuts during the pull or afterward makes no difference in strength. If using Bob's method I would be careful not to let the rivet spin when installing the nut, as it could loosen the hold of the rivet.
If using the pre installation of the nut you need to dial in the perfect length of the rivet to achieve a properly set nut.
In my trailer I used the pre installation method and some of the nuts are not fully seated against the inner cabinet flanges. It is only cosmetic, as I used the back up washers to do the holding. We rigged up a pushing setup where my son could apply pressure on the cabinet flange while also pushing in on the acorn nut and back up washer stack.

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