Love Bug - Love it or leave it - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 08-27-2012, 06:47 PM   #15
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Name: Cindy
Trailer: 1988 Bigfoot Silver Cloud
Posts: 2,554
Yes, I use that stripper when I am able to work at stripping the woodwork in the living room (about 4 or 5 years ago). It works, but it took a lot of elbow grease. I went through a lot of the brushes, but then, the woodwork has several layers of paint to remove.

Beats breathing in the fumes of the stronger stuff.


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Old 08-28-2012, 09:00 AM   #16
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Posts: 3,129
Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
It is really not that complicated and we can help. Basically, you wire it so everything runs off the 12 volt battery. Then wire the AC converter and the solar panel to recharge the battery. Some converters have a built in fuse box, that makes wiring to all the lights and other stuff easier.

Tom is correct that it's not really that complicated, people will help (a lot) but he is only describing the 12 volt system and how it can be tied into the AC system in an effiecient manner. You still will need at least one or two 110 volt AC outlets (plugs) available and that consists of nothing more than:
  • Heavy extension cord to plug into campground power.
  • Load center (box) with the circuit breaker.
  • A box to mount the plug in.
  • Some house wire to connect the load center to the plug.
These devices actually have color coded connectors. Black wire goes to gold colored screw, white wire goes to aluminum colored screw. Ground wire goes to green colored screw. Things like AC lights will have a black wire and a white wire that will match up by color to your wiring.

If you know anyone that has added a plug or two to a garage or basement they can easily guide you through it.

Here is a picture of the stock 110 set up for my 77 scamp. Heavy extension cord is black cable coming off the left side of the box, box has black circut breaker, white wire runs to plug that my refrigerator plugs into, not seen is a wire running off the top of the box. It goes under the dirty white ensolite up to the light over the sink.

This sort of gives me an idea, maybe a board with basic wiring such as in this picture but with the covers off would make a nice display for a rally. Throw in a switch and a light with the wire nuts showing to make it complete.

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Old 08-28-2012, 10:30 AM   #17
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Name: Jack
Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Posts: 2,548
Most rv maintenance manuals will have chapters on electrical code and practise relating to trailers and motorhomes but likely won't have a schematic for your brand and model as originally wired.

While you're waiting out the storm, think about this. A trailer, when on the road, is an extension of the tow vehicle electrically as well as physically. The starter battery in the tug supplies 12VDC to the running lights and signals. The hookup thru the trailer plug for this role requires four conductors. This is the simplest DC "system" for any utility, equipment, boat, or stock trailer. If the trailer has electric brakes, another conductor is required. There are a couple more roles for a starting battery (charging a second battery, motorized jacks) which only complicate the understanding while fattening the umbilical between tug and tow.

Most small camping trailers have at least one 12V battery on the tongue. A good way to understand the role of this battery is to give it a name to distinguish it from the battery in the tow vehicle. In a boat, you'd call it the "house" battery to distinguish it from the starter battery for the engine. A boat is both conveyance and domicile just as is a moho or trailer/tug lashup. So the "house" battery supplies current to the bare necessities of life when you're "at home" (lights, fans, water pumps).

Problem with 12VDC house battery is that it's a finite energy source when the recharging role of an alternator in a moving vehicle isn't available. So your battery will discharge and the lights will go out. This is a problem your motor yacht doesn't have as you can always run the diesel for a few minutes and trade petrochemical energy for juice in the house battery.

Both the boat and the trailer are going to stop sometime and both can go on "shore power" (120VAC) when "at the dock." "House" current can do several different jobs. If you have both AC and DC lights, motors and appliances, those that require AC (air conditioner a prime example) are suddenly available. In the case of your DC lights and motors, AC provides the charging current for your house battery. To play its double role AC "shore power" is fed into an electrical distribution panel which incorporates breaker-protected AC circuits and fuse-protected DC circuits in addition to a converter--a device which uses AC current to produce (or more properly induce) DC current for the purpose of charging the battery.

The side-by-side electrical systems in a trailer can also be thought of as storage-dependent and grid-dependent. Might not seem that you're in a precarious position of "dependency" when you're "on the grid," but as you know, natural disaster can change your views on that in a hurry. Having both is not a matter of redundancy but of simple and self-contained vs. complex and technologically interdependent alternatives.

The following won't help you wire the Bug but is food for thought. In the early years of electrification in the U.S. and well before AC transmission lines were available everywhere, many homes and farms had small generators and storage batteries which powered pump motors and lights. In some parts of the world, that's still the case. Electrically-speaking, camping trailers have one wheel in the past and one in the present and are also a special case of the house/vehicle hybrid.

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Old 08-28-2012, 11:55 AM   #18
Name: JoJo
Trailer: Former CT 13 Owner
Posts: 88
Thank you Mr. Rabbit
....and a river runs through it.
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Old 11-13-2015, 03:21 PM   #19
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Name: Cathy
Trailer: 1973 Love Bug '13
Posts: 400
We decided to love it, total rebuild. Even a name change. This is "Wandering Violet"

We still have things to do, some latches, side window frames (they are cut just need to be assembled, painted, and installed) mostly cosmetics. I promised pics months ago. I will post more, in time.

I also included a pic of our cabinet door latch solution. Magnetic baby locks.
These pics were taken today and the mattress from the back is still inside the house.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Fiberglass RV mobile app
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Old 11-13-2015, 03:37 PM   #20
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Name: Cathy
Trailer: 1973 Love Bug '13
Posts: 400
Just realized I did not post one of the back even though the beds not in you can see the back.
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Old 11-13-2015, 06:21 PM   #21
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1977, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Posts: 5,550
Given where you started, you have come a very long way. Congrats!

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