LP/CO Detector

[Jon Vermilye]

If you are purchasing a new smoke detector, get one that is a dual detector -ie has both ionization & photo electric sensors. With the two different sensors, it detects both flame & smoldering fires.This is a battery powered dual detector & has a "hush" button. It still goes off sometimes when I burn the toast, but the hush button works.

As to replacing detectors, even the 12V propane detectors should eventually be replaced. If it doesn't have a replacement date, the most often suggested date is the same as for CO detectors - when it is 5 years old. As to smoke detectors, if they don't have a "replace by" date, the NFPA code states they should be replaced after 10 years.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by stevebaz

My guess the reason your smoke detector is going off is moisture condensation. in a small space your heating the air and vaporizing moisture and its condensing on the cool element of the smoke detector. Might try moving the smoke detector to the other side of the closet out of the direct blast of the furnace. Assuming that the heater is mounted under the sink.

That makes sense, and is easily tested. I'll try it in a few other spots and see what happens. Thanks, Steve.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Jon Vermilye

As to replacing detectors, even the 12V propane detectors should eventually be replaced. If it doesn't have a replacement date, the most often suggested date is the same as for CO detectors - when it is 5 years old. As to smoke detectors, if they don't have a "replace by" date, the NFPA code states they should be replaced after 10 years.

Safe-T-Alert now installs an end-of-the-life alarm which goes off 5 years after the 12V supply is first connected.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANbvuVjUCtI

I am wanting to put one in the rebuild I am doing, and am thinking about the CO/LP combo units. In my Escape, the propane is low due to propane being heavier than gas, but the CO one is up higher. What is the right height to mount these, OR would I be better off installing separate units?

[Jon Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Safe-T-Alert now installs an end-of-the-life alarm which goes off 5 years after the 12V supply is first connected.

I am wanting to put one in the rebuild I am doing, and am thinking about the CO/LP combo units. In my Escape, the propane is low due to propane being heavier than gas, but the CO one is up higher. What is the right height to mount these, OR would I be better off installing separate units?

The propane detector should be close to floor level since propane is heavier than air, but the CO can be at any height since it is about the same weight as air. Even though the propane detector in my Escape is a dual unit (propane & CO), I installed a battery operated CO detector next to the smoke detector. It has a numerical readout which I prefer to have...

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Safe-T-Alert now installs an end-of-the-life alarm which goes off 5 years after .....

I got about that far and thought two things...
1] Oh no! I don't have enough detectors!
2] Why would I need an alarm 5 years after I'm Dead??

Then I realized that marketing had just found a new tool!

[David Tilston]

That's funny Floyd.

[Jim Bennett]

Floyd, who knows, there may be some folks want to celebrate this 5 year anniversary.

[mgellar]

Hi,
Trying to decide what I should do. The new Scamp 16' came with a CO detector. Why would they not include a combination CO/LP detector? Should I replace what it came with with a CO/LP detector, or add a hardwired LP detector, or a combination LP/smoke detector, hard-wired or battery-operated? So many detectors, so much to think about. I also don't want to start drilling and installing things without being sure. Some comments I've ready indicate if you have the valve detector on the dual tanks, which we do, that if there is a leak in the lines, you'll know if the gas doesn't stay in the lines when you turn off the tanks. But perhaps the furnace could go out and the pilot not close, or a burner be turned on, etc. If you do recommend, are battery-operated available/worthwhile, or just need to hardwire? And when not camping, this will drain the battery.

[Glenn Baglo]

LP detector should be near the floor as LP sinks.
Instructions for CO detector call for it to be located about three feet above the floor.
So, I'm not sure a combo unit ( and they are sold ) is the best solution.
I'd be inclined to go with a combo smoke/CO detector and a separate LP gas detector.

[mgellar]

Thanks. Too bad the CO detector supplied by Scamp does not include a smoke detector. With LP needing to be by floor, that probably shouldn't be combined with smoke detector. Seems like LP is more important.

[CampyTime]

I added a hard wired propane detector to my scamp 13. Searched long, and could not find a combo unit (one that took batteries at least). I've posted pics of my unit before, but I installed it on the front of the bunk bed fiberglass on fridge side. Fridge door does not hit it. I feel safer with both co and lp detectors in the rig.


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV

[Uncle Cereal]

Not sure whether I should ask my question here or start a new thread. We'll see.

I understand that the answer to one of the original question is: hardwire your propane detector.

I'll be using a small electrical space heater when we have electricity and try our propane heater in a setting where we won't have electricity. I'm not equipped with 12 V so is it possible to get a battery propane detector? Any suggestions?

Thanks!

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by Uncle Cereal

Not sure whether I should ask my question here or start a new thread. We'll see.
I understand that the answer to one of the original question is: hardwire your propane detector.
I'll be using a small electrical space heater when we have electricity and try our propane heater in a setting where we won't have electricity. I'm not equipped with 12 V so is it possible to get a battery propane detector? Any suggestions? Thanks!

That question came up recently. Seems that all CO/LP monitors are powered off the 12V (or 110V for your home) house battery but can have a 9V battery backup. Think they said the 9v backup would run around 12 hours. Another thought for 12v power for a monitor, you might look into a small 12v battery like those used in emergency lighting applications. There're small, 3"x4"x6", 5 pounds, rechargeable and with a lighted LED on/off switch you wouldn't be draining it for the times you're not running the heater.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Borrego Dave

T... Another thought for 12v power for a monitor, you might look into a small 12v battery like those used in emergency lighting applications...

That might work...

Similar batteries are used for alarm system back-up power and come in different ratings, but 8 amp-hours is typical.

The Kiddie gas Alarm I have draws about 75 milliamps (1.8 amps a day) so the 8 amp hour battery should power it for 106 hours or a little under 4 1/2 days. However I would not plan on more than two (maybe three) days out of it in actual practice.

Even with my group 27 battery, the detector runs the battery down enough that I hook up the charger every few weeks (or flip the battery master disconnect switch to the off position, which is my go-to solution when the trailer is stored and the propane tank is off).

Partnered with a solar charger and a 10 watt panel it would be feasible to extend that time, perhaps indefinitely. Even a 5 watt panel might be enough if you get good sun for long days but 10 would be better in practice.

Originally Posted by Borrego Dave

...There're small,... and with a lighted LED on/off switch you wouldn't be draining it for the times you're not running the heater.

If you are talking about a rig with propane lines going through the camper, then I would run the detector anytime the main propane tank valve was on regardless of what appliances are running or not.

Of course a lot of people don't use propane detectors at all. If your sense of smell works well and you can detect the added odorant, you might consider the risk/reward of skipping the detector for short term outings. But of course it is safer to have the detector and I would not recommend anything else.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by David Tilston

I use a BW Technologies Microclip 2. Part number: MC2-XW0M-B-NA.

What is one worth Dave?