LP LEAK- how do i remove a stubborn fitting? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-06-2013, 05:37 PM   #15
Raz
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When I was in college I worked for an air conditioner manufacturer testing compressors. To prep the compressor I had to add flair fittings. The most common reason for leaking was a failure to completely remove the ridge that occurs after using the tubing cutter. At over 300 psi leaks were easily identified. Raz
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:52 AM   #16
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With the camper flexing and the gas lines and compression fittings jiggling around, I worry about the compression fittings eventually leaking so I like the extra level of protection by using the thread sealant on the compression fittings.
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:54 AM   #17
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Darwin-

Wouldn't it just leak from the non-threaded side of the fitting anyways?
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:01 PM   #18
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Darwin: I hope you mean flare fittings, the compression type should not be used with propane.
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:02 PM   #19
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Be very careful and dab some on the back side of the flair. Even though that Blue #10 states it does not harden, it gets very hard. I'm not saying you have to do it just giving my opinion so people can read all the posts and make up their mind.

There was a time when I was an Airplane Mechanic and Crew Chief on a General's aircraft. Every nut and bolt on that thing was safety wired to prevent it accidentally coming apart in the air. To this day I use thread lock and thread sealant where I can just to have the additional peace of mind. I posted a thread last year where a camper in Louisa County, VA exploded when the wife went to light the stove. It didn't kill them but did burh Mom, Dad and child really bad. (Propane leak) and it becomes odorless depending on the time and volume of the leek. Another case where you should have a LP detector.
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:03 PM   #20
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Darwin-

Wouldn't it just leak from the non-threaded side of the fitting anyways?

I agree, I think using sealant on a flare fitting is just patching it.

The two primary reasons for a flare fitting to leak are:

New fitting, poorly done flare, either a burr or not having the correct amount flared.

Old fitting, Copper works hardens. A fitting that has been removed and re-installed or a fitting that has been tightend because it has a leak, stands a good chance of leaking. Work hardend copper can split at the flare.

I've yet to see a properly done flare leak. They're a pretty durable joint.
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:25 PM   #21
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I have to agree with Ron, sealant is not used on a flare fitting. And of course there are single and double flares.
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:26 PM   #22
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I have to agree with Ron, sealant is not used on a flare fitting. And of course there are single and double flares.
I have no experience using a sealant so can't say I have personal experience of it causing problems. But before modifying my propane lines last summer I did plenty of reading consulted several propane/plumbing professionals and the all said some variation of the same thing, "Don't use any sealants or tape on flare fittings, if you find you need something like that you are not making proper flare fittings and you'll likely have more trouble down the road."
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:18 PM   #23
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Be very careful and dab some on the back side of the flair.
If by "the back" you mean the side the nut bears against, I think all this is doing is keeping the nut from seating evenly against the flared tubing, and thus potentially interfering with the fitting working properly. The nut in a flare fitting is entirely mechanical; the seal is entirely between the inside surface of the flared section of the tubing and the conical part of the fitting. Sealing between the nut and tubing accomplishes nothing.

I'm not sure what "back" and "front" would mean in a flare joint. "Inside" and "outside" of the tubing seems clear.

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Every nut and bolt on that thing was safety wired to prevent it accidentally coming apart in the air. To this day I use thread lock and thread sealant where I can just to have the additional peace of mind.
Sure, but safety wiring and thread locking material prevents accidental loosening of the fastener and neither interferes with or attempts to reproduce the action of the fastener. Sealant on a flare fitting isn't helping it.

If the problem with a flare fitting was the nut loosening, then thread lock on the threads (nowhere near the flare) might help, but does this ever happen? I have never heard of it.
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:23 PM   #24
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flare fittings

Growing up in a plumbing / lp gas business & hardware store....You never apply anything to flared fittings.....the "flare" on the gas line along with the matching fittings is all that you should need (If flared correctly) and you never ever use compression fittings on gas.......these are in basic plumbing issues that are addressed in plumbing standards at least in the state of new york standards
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