LP LEAK- how do i remove a stubborn fitting?

[Ryan P R]

I found a very small LP leak on this T section, using soapy water. The leak is from one of the flared fittings. I was hoping to just tighten it a bit to fix the leak. I cannot get it to tighten. Thought I would remove it completely then just tighten it down again to stop the leak. However I can not get it to loosen either. I'm afraid of putting to much pressure on the lines and causing another leak somewhere else.
Are there any tricks to this that I should be aware of?
Oh, and I have about zero experience with LP lines so ANY advice is welcomed.

[Thomas G.]

You need to get a second wrench on the T fitting. Usually an adjustable (Crescent) wrench will do.

[GMike A]

Its a two wrench job for sure, one to hold and one to turn. You can also get an inexpensive flare set at any box or Hardware store and many times by just re-flaring gently the tubing you took off you can reestablish a tight junction. Gentle is the key word as copper is very soft. IMO

[mary and bob]

When you get it apart, check the flare on the end of the line for a crack, that could be the source of your leak. Even a scratch or other imperfection on the line or fitting can cause a leak.

[Ryan P R]

I tried the 2 wrench method to begin with-- it took so much pressure to make nothing happen-- except twisting of everything else.
Can I heat the fitting up a little bit?

[dylanear]

I wonder if the leak is because someone over tightened it?

I bet some heat would be OK if done right, but it does contain leaking gas, just to state the obvious!

I had some tight ones when I was doing my mods to my lines, but they all opened by hand with two wrenches.

[mary and bob]

I wouldn't heat it, maybe tap it with a hammer gently. If you can, get your wrenches positioned so that they are at about a 15 degree angle or so to each other, that is,get them in a position so that you can get two hands on them and squeeze them together. This helps eliminate the twisting problem. Be sure the wrenches fit tight as to not slip. Wear gloves and be careful not to pinch fingers or palm of your hand when the wrenches move. You may need to get a more specialized tool for more leverage, tubing wrench or flare nut crows foot that goes on a breaker bar or ratchet. All stuff that I have.

[cpaharley2008]

Do not heat it if there is propane in the line!!

[GMike A]

I would consider taking one of the propellant sprays and spraying only the T section hoping that it will shrink a bit. I have a super freezer mist that I get at radio shack for cooling circuits. I wonder if someone put a permanent thread sealer on there which they should not have. You could use a hair dryer to heat the coupler after burning off the gas via the stove or appliance. Sometimes snugging the coupler to tighten it just a hair will break the resistance and then you can back it off. Do that a lot on automotive and motor bikes.

[Dave Brown]

Over tightening can cause deformities in brass fittings. When you do get it apart carefully check the conical surface of the T fitting, if there are any deformities no matter how small it should be replaced. The ends of the copper lines should also be suspect if tightened too much.


Dave

[Ryan P R]

Thx for all the tips and knowledge folks. If I were to use heat I would of course purge the propane lines first....but I finally got the darn thing off!
I tried maybe 4 times or so- the photo doesn't show it but it is an a very awkward place with little clearance around it. Eventually it broke free when I found the best angles to balance leverage/support.
Today Instead of putzing around further I just cut off the old flare and made a new one with some tools I bought last night. Problem solved no more interior propane leak!

There is a tiny leak outside on the fitting right before the new regulator I installed- but that is also on a copper pipe. I don't like having such a rigid line out on the tongue, I will just replace that with some flexible LP line when I get a chance.

Thx again.

[Art VanDelay]

You can always CUT the T out of the line, get new connectors and T , flair the tubing and install.

[Darwin Maring]

When I work on GAS lines I always use S.O.S. #10 Blue. I have been using it for years and have no idea where I bought it. I'm sure there are other brands you can get at Lowes and Home Depot.
http://sos-prod.com/list2010.pdf

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Darwin Maring

When I work on GAS lines I always use S.O.S. #10 Blue. http://sos-prod.com/list2010.pdf

That's a thread sealant, used as an alternative to teflon tape to seal pipe threads; this was a flare fitting joint, not pipe threads, so no sealant should be used.

[Raz]

When I was in college I worked for an air conditioner manufacturer testing compressors. To prep the compressor I had to add flair fittings. The most common reason for leaking was a failure to completely remove the ridge that occurs after using the tubing cutter. At over 300 psi leaks were easily identified. Raz

[Darwin Maring]

With the camper flexing and the gas lines and compression fittings jiggling around, I worry about the compression fittings eventually leaking so I like the extra level of protection by using the thread sealant on the compression fittings.

[Ryan P R]

Darwin-

Wouldn't it just leak from the non-threaded side of the fitting anyways?

[mary and bob]

Darwin: I hope you mean flare fittings, the compression type should not be used with propane.

[Darwin Maring]

Be very careful and dab some on the back side of the flair. Even though that Blue #10 states it does not harden, it gets very hard. I'm not saying you have to do it just giving my opinion so people can read all the posts and make up their mind.

There was a time when I was an Airplane Mechanic and Crew Chief on a General's aircraft. Every nut and bolt on that thing was safety wired to prevent it accidentally coming apart in the air. To this day I use thread lock and thread sealant where I can just to have the additional peace of mind. I posted a thread last year where a camper in Louisa County, VA exploded when the wife went to light the stove. It didn't kill them but did burh Mom, Dad and child really bad. (Propane leak) and it becomes odorless depending on the time and volume of the leek. Another case where you should have a LP detector.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Ryan P R

Darwin-

Wouldn't it just leak from the non-threaded side of the fitting anyways?

I agree, I think using sealant on a flare fitting is just patching it.

The two primary reasons for a flare fitting to leak are:

New fitting, poorly done flare, either a burr or not having the correct amount flared.

Old fitting, Copper works hardens. A fitting that has been removed and re-installed or a fitting that has been tightend because it has a leak, stands a good chance of leaking. Work hardend copper can split at the flare.

I've yet to see a properly done flare leak. They're a pretty durable joint.