Make a new table

[Raya]

Thanks, Greg.

Of course that leads to more questions!

1) How are the overhead storage bins mounted to the trailer (and/or supported).

2) What did you use to prime (if anything) beneath the Perma-White? (I know this has been talked about in previous threads, but some of them have kind of trailed off without a conclusive answer - not that there needs to be one - and I'd like to hear more.)

[Greg A]

Thanks, Greg.

Of course that leads to more questions!

1) How are the overhead storage bins mounted to the trailer (and/or supported).

2) What did you use to prime (if anything) beneath the Perma-White? (I know this has been talked about in previous threads, but some of them have kind of trailed off without a conclusive answer - not that there needs to be one - and I'd like to hear more.)

Well we're risking getting too far off topic and split off so I'll start these answers with

TABLE TABLE

The bins are mounted thru hull. (TABLE) I removed all rivets when I rebuilt and replaced with SS bolts.
The Zinsser paint is kinda a primer as well, so just put two coats on everything, it covers really well. (TABLE)

[Alf S.]

James,

Very kool, I know now why I saved the metal bracket strip on the outside of the trailer when re-gelcoated the body. You have me thinking I should put it back on and make a table that I can carry in the tug till I arrive since I always put my folding table in the same position. Where did you get the folding leg ( I re-used the original for the new inside table)?

Hi: Roy... Folding table legs avail. at Vintage Trailer Supply Montpelier Vermont. Lots of other stuff there as well.
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie

[james kent]

James,

Very kool, I know now why I saved the metal bracket strip on the outside of the trailer when re-gelcoated the body. You have me thinking I should put it back on and make a table that I can carry in the tug till I arrive since I always put my folding table in the same position. Where did you get the folding leg ( I re-used the original for the new inside table)?

That leg was made from 1x3 with 3/4 inch side pieces attached and 1x2 sliding center section. A small "T" on each end and a short piece of piano hinge. Since we made a permanent bed arrangement I now use the original table on the outside.

[Raya]

Thanks, Greg,

The others brought it right back on track, so I think we're okay.

Raya

[william a morgan Jr]

I want to make a new table for the Boler but I really suck at putting the laminate on the edges (been there, tried that) I am looking for that T moulding seen on most RVs, arcade games etc. I tried searching the net and found some in the USA but no luck in Canada so far, has anybody run across this stuff 5/8" or 1 1\4" would be perfect.

Heres an example;

http://www.t-molding.com/store/home.php?cat=8

I get mine from a pinball suppy house on ebay it comes in several colors and is really easy to work with the trick to concave and convex corners is relief cuts and slow and steady it is avalibe on ebay and the seller i use is http://cgi.ebay.com/25-Ft-Dark-Green-T-Mou...A1%7C240%3A1318

[Alan P.]

[quote]Here's one made from reclaimed Redwood fence boards with end pieces to finish it off. A little bracing underneath and several coats of Polyurathane and it's been in use for 5-6 years.

Attachment 16875


Somone mentioned using Baltic Birch, which is also available as Russian Birch in 4' x4' sheets at Home Depot (at least in Ottawa). I used it with routed edges to make new cupboard doors on the advice of another member. Worked great and I don't think we found any voids.

I'm thinking of making a new table/bed of it because I'd like to have a little more room to slip past the corners of the table to get in and out of the seats, and in order to save weight. I'm thinking of either making a very slight cut-off of the corners (as seen one of the pictures in this exchange of emails). When used as a bed this will leave some voids beneath the mattress but I'm hoping this will not be a problem because of where they will be located in relation to the sleeping body.

Of more concern is whether the 11mm thickness (considerably thinner than the 3/4" of the original), will be strong enough. Lighter weight would reduce the possibility of back injury when changing from table to bed and back as it is an awkward lifting job using outstretched arms.

Anybody got experience to know if the 11mm will be OK as it is, or if it will need to be reinforced somehow from the underside, to avoikd breaking when used as a bed?
If necessary how could it be done without putting back all the weight?

[Rick kl]

I went with 5/8 maple MDF with a second piece around the edge to make it look 1 1/8 thick, I made the table 8" shorter for better access and I put a hinge on the 8" piece then installed it against the back wall so when I use the table for the bed I can just flip it down. I used a round over bit on the edge and stained it, the edge looks darker than top. I will post a picture soon.

[Raya]

I made the table 8" shorter for better access and I put a hinge on the 8" piece then installed it against the back wall so when I use the table for the bed I can just flip it down. I will post a picture soon.

Oh good, because the 8" "flip" sounds interesting but I can't quite visualize how it's oriented.

R.

[Rick kl]

Here are some pictures of my flip down piece

[Don N]

Here are some pictures of my flip down piece

Rick, does the back edge of the table sit on top of the 8" hinged piece when it is up in the air? Kinda like a end support for the table or is the 8" not tall enough and the hinge just gets the extra piece up out of the way when you are sitting at the table.

[Raya]

Aha, now I get it. Thanks!

[Alan P.]

Rick,
Now that I see your pictures I realize this is just the design solution I've been looking for. I only need a table that is about 8 inches shorter than the original. A shorter table would make it easier to get in and out of the seats on either side. However when being used as a bed it needs to be as long as the original. I guess there is no reason not to make the 8" folding piece in your design even wider - say 10" or so to make the bed a bit wider.

What a clever design. I'll get at this in the spring maybe using the 11mm Baltic plywood to make it lighter.

Alan

[Rick kl]

Rick, does the back edge of the table sit on top of the 8" hinged piece when it is up in the air? Kinda like a end support for the table or is the 8" not tall enough and the hinge just gets the extra piece up out of the way when you are sitting at the table.

The piece justs flips up out of way and is stored against the wall.

[Jake Jacobson]

Rick -

That's a great design - simple and effective. I think I might cut my table down and do the same thing. Thanks for sharing this!

[Alan P.]

Rick,
Just to make sure I understand what you did. Is the narrow piece, which is connected by piano hinge to the fold up piece fixed to the the support rail/ledge or does it just sit there?

Alan

[Rick kl]

I screwed it down but I think it would stay held in place by the cushions