Making Scamp Door watertight - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-28-2008, 04:54 PM   #1
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Hi my 1977 Scamp appears to have a newer door. I took off the old hardware and replaced some of the bolts with stainless. There is molding going around the door, and there is white u-shaped molding that goes around the entry way over the edge, I ordered the foam weather stripping that I thought was to go around the entry way to keep cold air from seeping in, so my proplem is that after I put the foam around the entry way (not on the door itself) when it gets wet and I close the door it just wrings out like a sponge soaking the interior floor. I obviously did something incorrect. Was it ment to go on the door itself and I just did this backwards? Thank You Brandy
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Old 03-28-2008, 05:06 PM   #2
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It sounds like you've got open-cell foam (sponge). The weather stripping I used from Home Depot, is closed-cell... no way for water to be absorbed. In your case, it won't matter if it's on the trailer or the door... it's going to act like a sponge.

You've also described the molding on my 1988 door... I think they've been built that way since the beginning.

And you got the weather stripping from Scamp!?
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Old 03-28-2008, 05:07 PM   #3
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Brandy,

Someone here recommended using the rubber copper pipe insulation that you can get at any hardware store. I followed their recommendation and it works great. Also, eliminates the need for the white lock trim on the edge of the fiberglass and seals the gaps in the door very well. Cost is about $5 for an 8' strip(used 2 pieces) and already comes with the adhesive you simply just peel off the protective paper to apply. I used a hot glue gun to tack down a few additional points as well. This is a really good and inexpensive way to do it. Keeps your head cushioned as well if you bump it going in or out.


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Old 03-28-2008, 05:14 PM   #4
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Greg.. pretty niffty!!
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Old 03-28-2008, 06:27 PM   #5
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I like that idea as it seems the gap is a bit wide, when you say rubber pipe insulation I have seen the foam pipe insulation befor at say home depot or lowes, are we thinking two different things? the foam ones I have seen are a dark brown and have a slit down the lenght of the tube but I don't recall a sticky removable piece to adhear the item. I also seem to have a problem with water traveling down the side entry way and I suspect it is whicking its way in via the striker plate, any thoughts on this? thanks for the feed back Brandy
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Old 03-28-2008, 06:30 PM   #6
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Greg I see the foam around the edge but just past that there is another piece of black something that starts at about the striker plate and goes up and around to the other side and ends at the same level as the striker plate what is that?
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Old 03-28-2008, 07:12 PM   #7
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Greg I see the foam around the edge but just past that there is another piece of black something that starts at about the striker plate and goes up and around to the other side and ends at the same level as the striker plate what is that?
That is my automotive rubber trim that I tried first. It was so expensive and didn't fill the gap. It didn't interfere with the new pipe insulation, so figured it couldn't hurt anything to leave it in place.

The pipe insulation comes in two types. There is an foam type that you don't want and a rubber type that you do want. They both have the slit with the adhesive covered by a peel off sheet on both sides of the slit. Usually find them right by the copper tubing in Home Deput
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Old 03-29-2008, 09:12 AM   #8
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Thanks going to give this a try today appreciate the advice, if this works it will solve a big water issue for me. Have a great weekend. Brandy
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Old 03-29-2008, 09:51 AM   #9
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Is this what your talking about http://estore.websitepros.com/1805348/-str...tion/Detail.bok
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Old 03-29-2008, 11:05 AM   #10
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Greg A
Is this what your talking about http://estore.websitepros.com/1805348/-str...tion/Detail.bok
That looks like the stuff Kevin. Didn't have the big white lettering on the HD stuff though.
I also had to do a bit of a mod to the door lock in order to seal and latch properly. I used 4- 1/4" aluminum spacers and 1/4" longer SS screws to remount the lock assy on the door. This allowed on my door perfect spacing to seal against the rubber all the way around and latch securely. My door latch had always been a problem and this made it very smooth.


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