"Making the connection" - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-08-2006, 09:34 AM   #1
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Hi: I just finished installing Grote LED"s for clearance lights. I know I won't miss the corrosion and burnt out bulbs at all!!! Some where I read to treat the wiring in my Boler as house wiring so I used Marrettes to connect the wires. I put Oxyout in the marr's first then twisted them on to the wires till tight... Next I am going to do the Stop Turn and Tail lights with 4" Grote units installed under the Top Hat light lenses on the trailer... Comments please Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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Old 10-08-2006, 02:16 PM   #2
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Houses don't rattle the way trailers do (except houses in earthquake territory or beside train tracks), so their connectors don't have the same challenges. When I fixed my Boler's range hood fan I had to disconnect the wires, which were joined with Marrettes (or equivalent wire nuts): they were still working, but almost fell apart when I touched them. I would avoid adding any of this type of connector, but actually used a couple in my new light fixture, because that's what I had at the time.

The original wire connections in my Boler are generally crimped caps. They work (I haven't found any of these connections failed yet), but are a pain for modifications.

In an old discussion in this forum someone pointed me to the Posi-Products line (sorry, the thread is lost and I can't remember who to credit). There are inline splice connectors (Posi-Lock), things that look like wire nuts (Posi-Twist), and a slick looking (haven't tried one yet) tap connector (Posi-Tap). While these are ridiculously expensive to buy in Canada, they seem like a good design to me, especially the Posi-Lock variation. My power and brake connections to my van's towing receptacle are done with Posi-Locks. If I were doing all-new wiring to clearance lights, I would consider Posi-Taps; with existing wiring, I'm planning to join the incoming and outgoing (to the next light) wires into one side of a Posi-Lock splice, with the other end of the Posi-Lock holding a short pigtail to the light.
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Old 10-08-2006, 04:22 PM   #3
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Quote:
Houses don't rattle the way trailers do (except houses in earthquake territory or beside train tracks), so their connectors don't have the same challenges. When I fixed my Boler's range hood fan I had to disconnect the wires, which were joined with Marrettes (or equivalent wire nuts): they were still working, but almost fell apart when I touched them. I would avoid adding any of this type of connector, but actually used a couple in my new light fixture, because that's what I had at the time.

The original wire connections in my Boler are generally crimped caps. They work (I haven't found any of these connections failed yet), but are a pain for modifications.

In an old discussion in this forum someone pointed me to the [b]Posi-Products line (sorry, the thread is lost and I can't remember who to credit). There are inline splice connectors (Posi-Lock), things that look like wire nuts (Posi-Twist), and a slick looking (haven't tried one yet) tap connector (Posi-Tap). While these are ridiculously expensive to buy in Canada, they seem like a good design to me, especially the Posi-Lock variation. My power and brake connections to my van's towing receptacle are done with Posi-Locks. If I were doing all-new wiring to clearance lights, I would consider Posi-Taps; with existing wiring, I'm planning to join the incoming and outgoing (to the next light) wires into one side of a Posi-Lock
splice, with the other end of the Posi-Lock holding a short pigtail to the light.
Hi: Every thing thats good is ridculously expensive in Canada Thanks for the reply...I wil look into the Posi Lock line... Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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Old 10-08-2006, 05:40 PM   #4
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Hi: Every thing thats good is ridculously expensive in Canada Thanks for the reply...I wil look into the Posi Lock line...
Posi-Locks are available at NAPA stores in Canada, where they are massively overpriced (about five times as expensive as the direct-from-manufacturer retail price). The problem is that they go through too many distribution steps, gaining far too much markup. Direct ordering from the Posi-Lock website would fix that, but they fail to offer the appropriate shipping option (via the post office), so orders will typically incur a $35 brokerage fee to get over the border (that's what I paid). There's no need for these extra costs, and many U.S.-sourced products are available in Canada without them.
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Old 10-09-2006, 02:13 AM   #5
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Posi-Locks are available at NAPA stores in Canada, where they are massively overpriced (about five times as expensive as the direct-from-manufacturer retail price). The problem is that they go through too many distribution steps, gaining far too much markup. Direct ordering from the Posi-Lock website would fix that, but they fail to offer the appropriate shipping option (via the post office), so orders will typically incur a $35 brokerage fee to get over the border (that's what I paid). There's no need for these extra costs, and many U.S.-sourced products are available in Canada without them.
Hi: Something is seriously "WRONG" When I hooked the car up and turned on the headlights...They worked!!! In my world that means "something is wrong" Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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