Marker lights on - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-21-2012, 06:15 PM   #15
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Who said anything about using the chassis as a wire???

All my electricals- now including the taillights- are directly connected to the trailer ground by means of #10 white ground wire. (White is ground in Trilliums of that vintage).

Location of the single trailer ground is less important than that there be only the one connection. In my case, and as designed by the mfr., the trailer ground is located near the converter.

I guess I misunderstood Thomas to say that the ground is achieved by connection to the tow vehicle's ground...my mistake!
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Old 10-21-2012, 06:27 PM   #16
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In Answer to P. Raz: There are two "types" of ground, chassis ground and earth ground.

Thanks for your post. I've decided to put a coffee can of dirt under the dinette seat near the converter for the earth ground.
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Old 10-21-2012, 06:37 PM   #17
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In Answer to P. Raz: There are two "types" of ground, chassis ground and earth ground.

Thanks for your post. I've decided to put a coffee can of dirt under the dinette seat near the converter for the earth ground.
Don't forget the 8 ft ground rod.
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Old 10-21-2012, 06:52 PM   #18
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P. RazDon't forget the 8 ft ground rod.

I just coiled up 8 ft of copper wire in the can B 4 filling it with earth.
I'm wondering though if I should connect a wire to the frame.
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Old 10-21-2012, 06:56 PM   #19
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I am thinking that because the light is a Light Emitting Diode (LED) and is getting it's power from one wire that is somehow a faulty ground that they got Cold Fusion up and running.
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:57 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
.................In the case of my taillights, they'd been installed directly on the aluminum box that I carry on my trailer bumper, and at the time my ever-helpful husband believed that the box itself was sufficient ground for the lights..............
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Who said anything about using the chassis as a wire???..........
I misunderstood you. I thought in the first post above you were saying that you were using the aluminum box mounted on the bumper as an electrical conductor. I would consider the aluminum box / bumper as an extension of the chassis.
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:30 PM   #21
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I found the problem the 7-pin connector cable had a cut in it where someone before me cut and spliced the wires together. Two wires were not connected the black 12v and the green RT. Tomorrow it will be repaired properly.
Thanks for all the help.
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:17 AM   #22
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An "interesting" problem comes with the advent of LED exterior lights - they draw so little current that an unplugged trailer connector resting on moist leaves, ground, or open to falling rain, etc can make them "glow".
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:46 AM   #23
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Frame ground ?

My Scamp has a # 8 bare wire run from the converter NEG to the frame Of the trailer (Chassis Ground) . What I question is the fact that the 120 VAC 30 amp power cord has a green equipment grounding conductor but that conductor is only tied to the equipment grounding conductors in the branch circuit cables. The frame of the trailer is not effectively grounded so the frame could become energized and not trip the 120 VAC over current device. If you standing on the wet ground and put your foot on the metal steps YOU become the ground path. Scamp says the trailer is isolated by the tires yet on mobile homes all the frames are effectively grounded (Bonded) to the service cables equipment grounding conductor to prevent shocks from frame to earth
The 30 amp receptacles at most campgrounds are not GFCI protected so no help there
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:52 AM   #24
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An "interesting" problem comes with the advent of LED exterior lights - they draw so little current that an unplugged trailer connector resting on moist leaves, ground, or open to falling rain, etc can make them "glow".
That is interesting. You must have LED marker lights. My brake lights are LED and draw about 1/2 an amp as I recall. Too high I suspect but the smaller marker lights are a different story. Raz
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:41 AM   #25
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My Scamp has a # 8 bare wire run from the converter NEG to the frame Of the trailer (Chassis Ground) . What I question is the fact that the 120 VAC 30 amp power cord has a green equipment grounding conductor but that conductor is only tied to the equipment grounding conductors in the branch circuit cables. The frame of the trailer is not effectively grounded so the frame could become energized and not trip the 120 VAC over current device. If you standing on the wet ground and put your foot on the metal steps YOU become the ground path. Scamp says the trailer is isolated by the tires yet on mobile homes all the frames are effectively grounded (Bonded) to the service cables equipment grounding conductor to prevent shocks from frame to earth
The 30 amp receptacles at most campgrounds are not GFCI protected so no help there
Well you got me curious. On my trailer there are no connections to the trailer frame and the AC and DC sections are completely isolated. Further, the Progressive Dynamics installation guide that came with the trailer gives a nice picture of the connection points, a table of wire size combinations for neutral and ground wires, and the terminal torques. Actual wiring, you're on your own. Raz
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:43 AM   #26
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I completely agree with Thomas and Raz that all tow lights should have the negative run right back to the connection to the tow. Companies that connect the negative lead from a light to ground, and use the chassis as a conductor, are just being cheap, and creating a couple more points for failure of the circuit.

As I mentioned in another thread, I believe that DC circuits should be looked at as using only a positive and negative conductor to complete a circuit (just like a flashlight). In a vehicle where they ground for safety reasons, the ground should not be looked at, or used, as a conductor.

Man, I get caught up in these digressions from the original topic way too easily.
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:44 AM   #27
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To steve dunham: In the military the mil spec is to put in a ground stake at the generator and again at the van that the power is connected to. Should you read a commercial generator instructions they state you should use a ground stake at the generator (Nobody Does) and of course the camper frame should be grounded also although the instruction manuals will not state this and again, nobody does.

Our Scamp had the DC and the AC ground connected at the same place and it also went from the converter to the frame. Check the Scamp schematic and you will see the ground symbol with no explanation where that connection really is.

Cary a Electrical Receptacle Tester With GFCI Diagnosis and test the camp ground power B 4 you connect your camper to it. It will tell you if the Camp Ground is wired correctly.

Electrical Receptacle Tester with GFCI Diagnosis
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:48 AM   #28
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Raz, The Scamp electric brakes use the frame as the negative path. Do you have electric brakes?

On aluminum clad stickies the running lights use the aluminum as a path (Cheep way of doing things)
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