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06-11-2018, 08:51 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: Ben
Trailer: Scamp
California
Posts: 19
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Modifying brand new Scamp door latch? Help!
Hey All!
We have a brand new 13' Scamp, had it about a month. It has the newer style latches.
I'm the only one in the family who can close the door, the kids can't even open it. Honestly, it takes enough force to close that I'm worried about the long term stress on the latches and door frame.
I know people have shimmed the older style door latches to make them work better, but I'm not seeing how that will work with this setup. The actual latch lives inside the box covered in rat fur, so shimming the handle+plate back won't move the latch at all that I can see. Pictures below
It feels like maybe the other side of the door, on the catch, is where I should be focused? I've searched, but only found help for the older style handles. Has anyone made these newer handles more usable?
Pictures:
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06-11-2018, 09:02 AM
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#2
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Junior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 87 13'Scamp Deluxe
Nevada
Posts: 20
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Latch Problems
Hey Ben...I have had the same problem. Check the screws on the latch plates. The should all be flat head screws. If they aren't, change them. Good Luck.
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06-11-2018, 09:08 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Name: Ben
Trailer: Scamp
California
Posts: 19
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Looks like it's flat heads if this is the plate you are talking about :
The wear marks don't seem to have those catching on anything or even close.
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06-11-2018, 09:46 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
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1. I would not do anything that I could not undo. In another 30 days I'll bet the seal will compress enough to make it a little easier, and in a year you dont want a gap because of a mod you did.
2. Since its a newer latch and only handful of people will have experience with it, I would call Evelands and ask their advice.
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06-11-2018, 01:30 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 87 13'Scamp Deluxe
Nevada
Posts: 20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmacaskill
Looks like it's flat heads if this is the plate you are talking about :
The wear marks don't seem to have those catching on anything or even close.
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Yep...those are the screws I'm talking about. Are the ones on the door frame the same?
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06-11-2018, 01:57 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Name: Ben
Trailer: Scamp
California
Posts: 19
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The other side has entirely different attachments, they are riveted and facing a different direction so I don't think they are conflicting. Also no wear marks.
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06-12-2018, 09:17 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 87 13'Scamp Deluxe
Nevada
Posts: 20
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Well that is different. I would have to go with Gordon's suggestion. Call Scamp.
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06-12-2018, 09:41 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Bat Dude
Trailer: Escape
Michigan
Posts: 347
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Scamp door
I agree, give it some time.
When I replaced the door seal on our16 with the new seal style it was difficult to close the door. After a few weeks, the new seal compressed a bit and it works fine.
__________________
Conservation biologist specializing in bats. Now stepping aside from paid $ bat work and just Escaping, painting and mentoring grad students
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06-12-2018, 09:46 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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I would put some "light" oil on it. It's metal to metal there and probably "grabbing".
Another thought, pull (if inside) or push (if on the outside) then activate the latch. The added lip on the door seal makes the door tight as I've read. I put the D seal on mine and a new latch by FIC similar to that one and it's a DREAM update!
Again, make sure the latch is working ok with the door OPEN. If not, it could be binding inside?? If so, you will have to disassemble the latch to oil it or try to find what's binding. But my guess is on lightly oiling the striker plate/latch and using the push/pull method until the seal gets seated better.
LET US KNOW!
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06-12-2018, 10:21 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
Name: Ben
Trailer: Scamp
California
Posts: 19
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So I took the advice, and contacted Scamp like I probably should have done first.
They were awesome, responded quickly and suggested I give the striker in the door frame a little careful persuasion with a rubber mallet to move it about 1/16". I did so, and the door works perfectly now. My 9 year old is now able to easily open and close it from inside and out. It's great!
Thanks for the suggestions everyone.
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06-12-2018, 10:33 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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Wow..that sounds risky "cracking" the fiberglass. I guess it's strong enough in that area they knew it wouldnt hurt. Remember, if the door/seal gets loose, you can reverse the operation .
Darral (Glad you got it figured out!)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmacaskill
So I took the advice, and contacted Scamp like I probably should have done first.
They were awesome, responded quickly and suggested I give the striker in the door frame a little careful persuasion with a rubber mallet to move it about 1/16". I did so, and the door works perfectly now. My 9 year old is now able to easily open and close it from inside and out. It's great!
Thanks for the suggestions everyone.
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06-12-2018, 10:34 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
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Scamps solution: A bigger hammer.. LOL
Glad you didn't crack the fiberglass.
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06-12-2018, 11:04 AM
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#13
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Junior Member
Name: Ben
Trailer: Scamp
California
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darral T.
Wow..that sounds risky "cracking" the fiberglass. I guess it's strong enough in that area they knew it wouldnt hurt. Remember, if the door/seal gets loose, you can reverse the operation .
Darral (Glad you got it figured out!)
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Yeah, that was my big concern as well. It seemed to work, and I'm very confident I didn't damage the fiberglass.
I also was happy the "solution" is reversible, and infinitely adjustable over time.
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06-12-2018, 01:28 PM
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#14
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Member
Name: Jeff T
Trailer: 2017 Scamp 16 Deluxe
Midwest
Posts: 46
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Door
When we picked up our Scamp 16 over a year ago the person who gave us the "tour" before we drove it away said NEVER slam the door. He explained it would crack the fiberglass around the striker.
Now we have the older door handle and not the new one but I always heeded his advice. Our door seal new made the door really hard to open or close. After a year no issues at all.
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06-12-2018, 10:38 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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I designed mine with an adjustable striker, but after a few years when I wanted a minor adjustment, a judicious tap with a moderate hammer worked perfectly, so I have never had to use the adjusters...
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