Monitor inside trailer temp. - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-31-2014, 10:50 PM   #15
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Or its an Atwood brand RV water heater. Atwoods generally don't use anode rods
I learned something new here. So, what is the method by which one drains an anode-less Atwood?
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Old 12-31-2014, 10:57 PM   #16
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They have a nylon drain plug. In it's place on mine, I installed the "HottRod" to make my Scamp all-electric now. I designed a special tool to remove it and drain the water heater as I normally would by using a special nylon bushing setup. Works beautifully! I like the Atwood.

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I learned something new here. So, what is the method by which one drains an anode-less Atwood?
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Old 01-01-2015, 12:04 PM   #17
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Mike as Darral indicated Atwood has a simple nylon drain plug. The reason for not needing an anode rob with an Atwood heater is that they build the tank using aluminum.

Wendy I use a cheap wireless indoor/outdoor thermometer I picked up for under $20. Not near the trailer and can't recall the brand but it looks a bit like the Bios one in this photo - I looked for one with a fairly small sending unit for in the fridge so it doesnt take up much space - its about 2"x2"X 3/4". I stuck the receiving unit up on the trailer wall. Has worked well for about 5 years now - just need to change the batteries once a year.
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Old 01-01-2015, 06:19 PM   #18
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Thank you Carol and Darryl. I see the accurite brand is available at my local walmart do I'll pick that up and give a try. Happy new year all!


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Old 01-02-2015, 09:40 AM   #19
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The Snoozy water heater is an Ariston,
The user manual says 1. remove and turn upside down over sink OR 2. remove fitting and siphon water (4 gallons) out.
Since the unit is mounted under under the bed, and the piping is such that removal of pipe connections would be extensive to be able to siphon water out, I chose to blow out water lines and apply heat to the area for the remaining water. probably a "belt and suspenders" approach, but I'd rather not have to replace the heater, and/or lines.
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Old 01-02-2015, 10:08 AM   #20
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The Snoozy water heater is an Ariston,
The user manual says 1. remove and turn upside down over sink OR 2. remove fitting and siphon water (4 gallons) out.
Since the unit is mounted under under the bed, and the piping is such that removal of pipe connections would be extensive to be able to siphon water out, I chose to blow out water lines and apply heat to the area for the remaining water. probably a "belt and suspenders" approach, but I'd rather not have to replace the heater, and/or lines.
Allan is this the heater? Ariston 4.0 gal 1500w water heater.

If it is, it pretty clear why you are taking the approach you are. Would seem that owners of Snoozy's who don't have the option of plugging in their trailers through the whole winter to keep the trailer heated would have a bigger job winterizing their trailers with that heater than those with a more typical RV water heater from Atwood or Suburban with a simple drain plug would.
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Old 01-02-2015, 10:30 AM   #21
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Yes, that's it.
The instahot in our Hunter also wanted to be removed and turned upside down to drain.
Actually after reading some responses I'm glad to know there are heaters available with drains.....
Although the new house will have a three car garage and doors high enough for Snoozy to fit in..... ( next winter either Snoozy lives in the garage or I go water heater shopping.)
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Old 01-02-2015, 11:48 AM   #22
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Yes, that's it.
The instahot in our Hunter also wanted to be removed and turned upside down to drain.
Actually after reading some responses I'm glad to know there are heaters available with drains.....
Although the new house will have a three car garage and doors high enough for Snoozy to fit in..... ( next winter either Snoozy lives in the garage or I go water heater shopping.)
Allan as you can see from the responses its far more common for an RV heater to have a drain than not to. It is also not very common to find an electric only water heater in an RV either. The two most commonly found brands of hot water heaters found in RV's are Atwood and Suburban.
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Old 01-02-2015, 03:21 PM   #23
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Wow. A mfr that installs an RV water heater which must be removed for draining....... I'm sure glad I don't have one of those.
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Old 01-02-2015, 03:41 PM   #24
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Hookup your air compressor to your hose inlet.
Make sure you have a regulator.
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Old 01-02-2015, 04:22 PM   #25
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Hookup your air compressor to your hose inlet.
Make sure you have a regulator.
Yes, as I said, I do blow out all water lines (@ 30 psi) BUT..................
something about the internal piping of the water heater leaves 3 or so gallons in the tank ......
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Old 01-02-2015, 04:37 PM   #26
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Accurite is the brand I use Wendy. And that's where I've bought most of mine.

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Originally Posted by CampyTime View Post
Thank you Carol and Darryl. I see the accurite brand is available at my local walmart do I'll pick that up and give a try. Happy new year all!


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Old 01-02-2015, 04:44 PM   #27
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One of two things would have already happened with me and that water heater--- either I would have Lil Snoozy to take it back and reimburse me for it OR I'd be putting me a drain valve in the line!! (That is IF you can even get to it to do that.) Good luck my friend and keep us posted. Wonder what other Lil Snooziers think or do about it? I'll have to give my Scamp a thumbs up on the water heater brand, placement and ease of use! (Atwood)

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Originally Posted by starfighter View Post
Yes, as I said, I do blow out all water lines (@ 30 psi) BUT..................
something about the internal piping of the water heater leaves 3 or so gallons in the tank ......
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Old 01-02-2015, 04:50 PM   #28
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We've used the above Accurite, or some other version from Walmart, for years. You'll need good batteries, and not too much distance from the house, to get a reading within a few degrees.
We use one on the patio to read from inside the house, another one in the trailer nose cone, another one in the trailer refrigerator. They work ok till the batteries get low.
Sherry
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